Alpine Type R 12 box help

Duce T

Junior Member
Hello I'm new here and I just bought two new Alpine Type Rs 12 dual 4 ohm subs for an amazing deal and a Hifonics Brutus 1100.1 it's going in a 2017 Toyota Corolla and I need help on a box I've always bought prefab boxes lol but I want to build a custom box for the first time so I'm hoping someone here can give a design that I could build off of I've looked around on the internet I couldn't find one but I mostly listen to Rap so I don't know what tuning is good and posibly could someone tell me what else I would need for this build and I appreciate the help

 
Hello I'm new here and I just bought two new Alpine Type Rs 12 dual 4 ohm subs for an amazing deal and a Hifonics Brutus 1100.1 it's going in a 2017 Toyota Corolla and I need help on a box I've always bought prefab boxes lol but I want to build a custom box for the first time so I'm hoping someone here can give a design that I could build off of I've looked around on the internet I couldn't find one but I mostly listen to Rap so I don't know what tuning is good and posibly could someone tell me what else I would need for this build and I appreciate the help
i like 35-36hz plays deep enough for me and is tad louder, most settle on 32-33 (some do 29 though) may depend more on what that sub likes.. see if someone will model it for u..

 
This is why I ask...

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It's a 4 ft3 net 48 in2 ported tuned to 32 hz /w/ dual Sound Mechanix heavy terminals and wired with Sky High 8 ga... has removable port extension to tune to 28 hz if you want to slam... this is NOT a prefab or a joke... $80 cash and carry... LOL!

 
I just modeled them in this box and they are -3db at 26 hz... good for up to 1800 watts before compression.. and have a +3.5 db curve centered at about 38 hz... your Type R's should do really well in this box...

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for $80 it's a steal...

 
This with the port extension installed... is it me or does it look better?

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Looks like a flatter curve and less port compression to me... IDK?

 
This with the port extension installed... is it me or does it look better?
Looks like a flatter curve and less port compression to me... IDK?
you should actually list what his estimated power will be after rise so it'll be 300-450 watts input power with his brx 1100.1 He can throw a bigger amp on there but probably wont. You'll need an underrated 3.5k amp in order to end up with around 1700 watts wired to 1 ohm after rise.

On a side note, Generally daily boxes dont do so hot if there's too much port area and not enough power. There's no pressure build up in the box which acts like free air. Just something to keep in mind in the future.

 
Well I don't live in Pheonix but I'm farther up north past Flagstaff and it's a long trip to pick up a box it's more than what I'm willing to spend just for a trip to the valley but it sounds like to me the low to mid 30's would be a good tuning but I do need a design I appreciate the help guys

 
Well I don't live in Pheonix but I'm farther up north past Flagstaff and it's a long trip to pick up a box it's more than what I'm willing to spend just for a trip to the valley but it sounds like to me the low to mid 30's would be a good tuning but I do need a design I appreciate the help guys
what music do you like to listen to? measure the length x width x height of your trunk, make sure the box can go in the trunk opening, not just length and height but also depth wise.

 
you should actually list what his estimated power will be after rise so it'll be 300-450 watts input power with his brx 1100.1 He can throw a bigger amp on there but probably wont. You'll need an underrated 3.5k amp in order to end up with around 1700 watts wired to 1 ohm after rise.

On a side note, Generally daily boxes dont do so hot if there's too much port area and not enough power. There's no pressure build up in the box which acts like free air. Just something to keep in mind in the future.
Thanks Jeff... I do understand what you are saying now... I looked at it again with a more reasonable input power... I figure best case at 600 at 1 ohm after box rise... I see what you mean...

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That rear port velocity IS low... thanks for pointing that out

BTW... I was told by Trititucm Agricolam that the power input does not need to be adjusted for box rise... here is the quote...

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As you see I... (97_Blazer)... was trying to account for it but was advised not to... Heck... I'm only tryin' to learn...

 
Thanks Jeff... I do understand what you are saying now... I looked at it again with a more reasonable input power... I figure best case at 600 at 1 ohm after box rise... I see what you mean...
That rear port velocity IS low... thanks for pointing that out

BTW... I was told by Trititucm Agricolam that the power input does not need to be adjusted for box rise... here is the quote...

As you see I... (97_Blazer)... was trying to account for it but was advised not to... Heck... I'm only tryin' to learn...
thats horsepoop lmao. If you dont, that would mean A LOT of people would be having major port noise right now. The program is not smart enough to figure out actual projected resistance and rise, even if you change the impedance values it does nothing to the rear air velocity.

 
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Duce T

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