Against JL audio?

autotech mm4000.1 retail $999 (i paid half that)

900x2 at 4ohm sure its a little less then a 1\1000 but its got 2 channels so it puts out twice the power almost at 4ohm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

jl is good but its a designer product it costs more then most other products that are of equal value\power

 
Right now, I'm running a lightning audio x1.2000.1D. Let's compare it to the 1000/1

LPF? Check

SSF? Check

Phase switch? Check

"Advanced bass control" (Bass boost with a Q Control)? Negative. In fact, there is no bass boost on my amp, because its unnecessary...

Preamp out controls? Negative. It's just another useless frill...

So basically all the JL has that other amps don't is a Q control on the bass boost, and an xover on the output. Worth $200? Not by a long shot.

Edit: The $200 you save could be used to buy a h/u with all the xover features and more....
You're only scratching the surface. Off the top of my head, I'm 99% sure that Lightning Audio product has an 18dB/octave subsonic filter, whereas the JL Audio 1000/1 has a 12dB/octave or 24dB/octave SSF. The bass control is valuable to some people, as is the xover output. The most exclusive feature on 1000/1 that you are totally forgetting is R.I.P.S. Whether you like this feature or not (I personally don't), it is certainly a more expensive technology to implement and valuable to many customers and dealers.

 
JL is not for the cheap. If you want cheap, go Clarion, Pyle, Jensen, or Lightning. Anything at pep-boys should suit your needs.

JL is for ballers. Theres a reason all the biggest rappers sing about JL, Zapco, Alpine..... and not Lightning audio or Pyle. It's all about the BALLER FACTOR.

It's like street racing..... yeah you can make a Honda Civic smash on a V12 ferrari at a fraction of the cost..... but at the end of the day, you still live at your parents house with a Honda Civic and the other dude is rollin up to his mansion in his ferrari ready to bang some fine chick. The same goes for JL Audio.

We are an elitist group of car audio lovers.

 
I like JL, especially their Fathom and Gotham home subs, the problem is that for the price of 1 13W7 I could get 2 SI Mags which would beat the 13W7 in both SQ and output. Simply stated, for the price of a JL component I could go with a smaller company such as RE, SI, Fi etc etc. and get a beefier sub that is louder or multiple subs. On the amp side the same thing applies, I could go with JL or with Sundown, Orion, Alpine etc etc and get as much power and SQ for a lower price. Again, JL makes solid products and if I was buying from brick and mortar I wouldn't hesitate to go with them, they just have a higher price point for their SQ and SPL steppings.

 
JL 1000/1 = $999 MSRP
Kicker ZX 1000.1 = $699

Alpine PDX1.1000 = $799

RF T1000.1 = $799

MTX TE1501D = $799 (1500w RMS)

MB Quart PAB12001D = $599

Orion HCCA-D1200 = $429

Clarion DPX 11500 = $450

JBL GTO1201.1 = $500

JBL BPX1100.1 = $995

PPI D2000/1 = $700

... so the 1000/1 is $200 more than the closest competitors (aside from the JBL BPX). The the Alpine PDX1.1000, Kicker ZX1000.1 and the RF T1000.1, I consider to be very comparable to the JL, yet cost less. The MTX that actually produces 500w more power is $200 less. There are several others, whose quality in comparison to the JL is arguable, but still should put out 1000w, that are half the price.

Overpriced? I think so.
Kicker ZX 1000.1 = $699 ........500watts RMS@ 4 ohms and isn't 1 ohm stable....

Alpine PDX1.1000 = $799 ....... not 1 ohm stable

RF T1000.1 = $799.. 500watts @ 4 ohms... 750 @ 2 ohms...gets 2 1000w at 1 ohm

MTX TE1501D = $799 (1500w RMS)....... 500watts @ 4 ohms

Orion HCCA-D1200 = $429..... i dont even know why this is on your list..... its 250 watts @ 4 ohms, 400 at 2 and 600 at 1..... it never even reaches 1000 by a long shot...

JBL GTO1201.1 = $500...... not stable at 1 ohm and doesnt put out 1000rms at 4...

PPI D2000/1 = $700..... puts out 375 @ 4 and 600 @ 2.....

my whole point is that JL amps are more versitile..... no matter how the hell you wire a JL 1000/1 you will get REAL raw power...... don't get me wrong i don't really even care for JL that much but when it comes down to the facts they make power wherever its needed.....you dont have to stess the hell out of a 1000/1.... shit you can wire 2 dual 4 ohm subs out to 4 ohms and still make 1000watts rms without straining your amp....

 
Kicker ZX 1000.1 = $699 ........500watts RMS@ 4 ohms and isn't 1 ohm stable.... Doesn't matter, so long as you get the right subs... and the JL isn't 1 ohm stable, either...Alpine PDX1.1000 = $799 ....... not 1 ohm stablesee above

RF T1000.1 = $799.. 500watts @ 4 ohms... 750 @ 2 ohms...gets 2 1000w at 1 ohm now you're saying it like it's a bad thing?

MTX TE1501D = $799 (1500w RMS)....... 500watts @ 4 ohmsagain, who cares what it does at 4 ohms... just get the right subs.

Orion HCCA-D1200 = $429..... i dont even know why this is on your list..... its 250 watts @ 4 ohms, 400 at 2 and 600 at 1..... it never even reaches 1000 by a long shot...my bad, i was thinking of the 1200D

JBL GTO1201.1 = $500...... not stable at 1 ohm and doesnt put out 1000rms at 4...see above

PPI D2000/1 = $700..... puts out 375 @ 4 and 600 @ 2.....and 1250 @ 1...

my whole point is that JL amps are more versitile..... no matter how the hell you wire a JL 1000/1 you will get REAL raw power...... don't get me wrong i don't really even care for JL that much but when it comes down to the facts they make power wherever its needed.....you dont have to stess the hell out of a 1000/1.... shit you can wire 2 dual 4 ohm subs out to 4 ohms and still make 1000watts rms without straining your amp....
It doesn't matter at how many ohms amps make their power... just buy your subs accordingly...

 
It doesn't matter at how many ohms amps make their power... just buy your subs accordingly...
What if you want to change subs? What if you can't find the voice coil configuration you're looking for? Should you change amps over and over again? Name one common voice coil configuration (aside from svc 8 ohm) that cannot be wired between 4 and 1.5 ohm load.

 
What if you want to change subs? What if you can't find the voice coil configuration you're looking for? Should you change amps over and over again? Name one common voice coil configuration (aside from svc 8 ohm) that cannot be wired between 4 and 1.5 ohm load.
I've changed subs like I change underwear, and I haven't had a single problem with not being able to find the right voice coil...

 
This is a better setup for your dollar

Lightning_Audio_Complete_Bass_System59bcb3b7-dbc9-4d88-9f37-df91d05af879-detail.jpg


//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/happydance.gif.a963168fea27d8453c3ec467ddcf9e1c.gif :hapydanc: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/moon.gif.9d317aec3339ffe7fde0638df52c628a.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/swordfight.gif.e3de6069f3ffe402fc3ab4a827365101.gif

 
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