Advice for new build!

[Nelsonford218]

I recently ordered a new 2022 Amg GLB35 and I'm wanting to put a nice build in it. I hate to even mention the term SQL because I know people seems to hate it! But I'm looking to build something great sounding but still pretty loud. I've been out of the scene for quite a bit but my last build was in my 2012 camry:
Chinese Android head unit
Audison Bit one
2 sets of Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5 components, one in doors and dash, the other in fiberglass kick panels
Infinity kappa 6x9s for the rear
2 Soundqubed HDC3 15s ported and sealed to the cab behind rear seats
2 mb quart ra1000.4s on the highs
Dd m3b on the subs @ .5 ohm
320a Ohio gen amp
Group 31 Duracell battery

Sounded quite decent and did a 150.8 on the dash.
This time around I want to go higher end and not so much spl but still loud highs. Would like all the amps to be the same brand and series if possible for a nice looking install.
Considering focal k2 3ways for the front, k2 2 ways for the rear along with focal fdp amps, but I'm not sure about subs because I havent heard much that isnt spl. Looking to be around a 140 and considering something ported, 1 15, 2 10s, or 2 12s. Not sure if an aftermarket alternator is possible on this vehicle or not yet so probably cant go too big on power! Also considered hertz, audiofrog, audio control and a couple others. Trying to stay around 5 or 6 thousand on equipment minus wiring and install supplies. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I like the term SQL. That means high pressure levels across a wide bandwidth, at least to me.

Let me know if you need help with the box and choosing subs. That's a pretty good score you got there. If you let me know what box space you're working with, we can look and see what will fit and sound the best.

 

[Nelsonford218]

I like the term SQL. That means high pressure levels across a wide bandwidth, at least to me.

Let me know if you need help with the box and choosing subs. That's a pretty good score you got there. If you let me know what box space you're working with, we can look and see what will fit and sound the best.

Heres a picture of the hatch area. Considering a fiberglass enclosure on each side to replace the circled area but I suppose I'll need to wait and see how much room is there for air space. If I cant go that route then I should have plenty of space for an enclosure above the floor. Or amps on the side and subs in the floor! Would really prefer something built in and incorporated into the rear, but if I end up putting an enclosure above the floor it will need to be removable because my other hobby is pinball machines, so gotta be able to move them around occasionally

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I was going to mention Audio Frog speakers and subs. Ive been seeing quite a few SQ/a bit SQL set ups lately with Audio frog components and even Morrell high end set ups.Hertz and Masconi amps and some Zapco amps lately .May even take a look at the Icon and Zcon sub woofers on SSA.com. Gladden amplifiers and even Hertz Mille speakers get loud and clean.Dyna Audio I believe are another nice quality. Just a few that Ive seen at shws and also a good friend runs in his truck. he has a pair of the older Boston 13" subs and also the older Arc dvc 2 ohm 12" 1000rms subs(either are hard to find now im sure but sound dammned good)

 

[MythosDreamLab]

That's an awesome vehicle, I just checked it out on the MB site, an t one thing I would say is DO NOT use cheap components in it!

I have a Honda Passport with is slightly bigger than yours, and I invested in a top notch system and I SUPER enjoy it every time I'm in it. So my recommendations are based on my system.

For your fronts, unless you are ok CUTTING door panels or spending $2500+ to modify your A-Pillars, I would stay with a 2-way (ACTIVE) set up! For the rears I would also go with a 2-way (Passive) set up. For your Subs, I did a custom Fiberglass enclose in ONE of my Cubbies and mounted a single 8" sub in it and it is plenty enough bass for me. If you are concerned with your overall cost, I'd say do ONE custom fiberglass enclosure with a 10" sub and then do the second if you still want more bass.

I see you have some experience with Audison, and that's a good thing:

MAIN AMP: DSP Amp Audison AP F8.9: 85w x 8 Channels
SUB AMP: Audison AP F1D : (500w @ 4ohms / 800w @ 2ohms)
FRONT TWEETERS: Audison Thesis Violino II 1.5: These are amazing tweeters, I'm running them in my rear C-Pillars.
FRONT WOOFERS: Audison Thesis Sax 6.5: Top of the line components that go down to 40hz
REAR SPEAKERS: Hertz MLK1650.3: Hertz is owned by Audison and these are their top-of-the-line 2-way set and will complement the front speakers.
SUB WOOFER: Audison APS 10D: need to make sure of your cab size, if this speaker needs more room, I'd look for a smaller volume JL.

1) Here's the set up: run the Audison Amp input from your OEM system and use the Frequency Equalization tool to restore the full frequency.
2) Run your font tweeters Active,
3) Bridge 2 amp channels together for each of the front woofers (send them 260w each) also run active,
4) Run you rear speakers Passive, using the Crossover,
5) Output the ".9" channel of the AP F8.9 amp to the input of the AP F1D.
6) Run one or two Subs from this Amp (either 500w or 800w) - Also have Fiberglass enclosure made.
7) Conduct DSP Tune
8) Enjoy...

 

[Nelsonford218]

I was going to mention Audio Frog speakers and subs. Ive been seeing quite a few SQ/a bit SQL set ups lately with Audio frog components and even Morrell high end set ups.Hertz and Masconi amps and some Zapco amps lately .May even take a look at the Icon and Zcon sub woofers on SSA.com. Gladden amplifiers and even Hertz Mille speakers get loud and clean.Dyna Audio I believe are another nice quality. Just a few that Ive seen at shws and also a good friend runs in his truck. he has a pair of the older Boston 13" subs and also the older Arc dvc 2 ohm 12" 1000rms subs(either are hard to find now im sure but sound dammned good)

I forgot about BA. The first high end car stereo I ever heard was an all boston setup and I can still remember how amazing it sounded! I believe hearing it was what got me into more than just subs! I'd love to go zapco or mosconi, the zapco seems like its probably out of my price range! I've heard some of the ssa subs too and were quite impressed! Thank you for the suggestions, I hadnt looked at the dyna audio or Morrell at all. I gonna take a look at what they have to offer and price right now

 

[Nelsonford218]

That's an awesome vehicle, I just checked it out on the MB site, an t one thing I would say is DO NOT use cheap components in it!

I have a Honda Passport with is slightly bigger than yours, and I invested in a top notch system and I SUPER enjoy it every time I'm in it. So my recommendations are based on my system.

For your fronts, unless you are ok CUTTING door panels or spending $2500+ to modify your A-Pillars, I would stay with a 2-way (ACTIVE) set up! For the rears I would also go with a 2-way (Passive) set up. For your Subs, I did a custom Fiberglass enclose in ONE of my Cubbies and mounted a single 8" sub in it and it is plenty enough bass for me. If you are concerned with your overall cost, I'd say do ONE custom fiberglass enclosure with a 10" sub and then do the second if you still want more bass.

I see you have some experience with Audison, and that's a good thing:

MAIN AMP: DSP Amp Audison AP F8.9: 85w x 8 Channels
SUB AMP: Audison AP F1D : (500w @ 4ohms / 800w @ 2ohms)
FRONT TWEETERS: Audison Thesis Violino II 1.5: These are amazing tweeters, I'm running them in my rear C-Pillars.
FRONT WOOFERS: Audison Thesis Sax 6.5: Top of the line components that go down to 40hz
REAR SPEAKERS: Hertz MLK1650.3: Hertz is owned by Audison and these are their top-of-the-line 2-way set and will complement the front speakers.
SUB WOOFER: Audison APS 10D: need to make sure of your cab size, if this speaker needs more room, I'd look for a smaller volume JL.

1) Here's the set up: run the Audison Amp input from your OEM system and use the Frequency Equalization tool to restore the full frequency.
2) Run your font tweeters Active,
3) Bridge 2 amp channels together for each of the front woofers (send them 260w each) also run active,
4) Run you rear speakers Passive, using the Crossover,
5) Output the ".9" channel of the AP F8.9 amp to the input of the AP F1D.
6) Run one or two Subs from this Amp (either 500w or 800w) - Also have Fiberglass enclosure made.
7) Conduct DSP Tune
8) Enjoy...

Thanks, it does look like an awesome vehicle! I've actually never seen one in person, and it's my first new car, usually buy a year old, so it feels kinda crazy spending that kinda cash hoping I'll like it!
I definetly dont want to cheap out on anything in this car if possible. I have some experience building with fiberglass so I did plan on ordering another set of a pillar panels to cut up and build. But your right, I dont mind removing pieces but definetly dont want to cut up my door panels or anything I cant afford to buy spare ones of!
I've never done an active setup before but have read into them some. I do plan on getting some form of rta, like the $200 audiofrog one. From watching some video it doesnt seem like the tuning would be too bad, actually looks pretty fun, but I wouldnt be opposed to paying to have it tuned after I get it all installed.
I think your right with one cubby at a time. That's the perfect way to expand without having to redo a bunch of work to upgrade if needed!
The only experience I have with audison is the bit one, I loved it, even though it did eventually fail on me. I never looked at their amps or speakers too be honest, I'm gonna look into them also now. I like the idea of running the amp with dsp built in, saves some wiring, some space, and another piece of equipment to buy! Is tuning a 3 way active much more difficult than the 2 way? Would it make a noticable worth while difference? I dont mind doing the work if it's worth it. Building is pretty fun, it's the deadening and insulating I'm not looking forward to!