Adding Bass to factory Systems - I'm a noob

[zman37]

to clarify, I haven’t bought this truck yet, so no actual info yet on the performance of factory speakers. They may turn out fine I was just pondering that alongside some amplified and good-sounding subs they might seem underpowered and dwarfed by the subs making the treble retreat into the background. If I only hear the boom, but muffled lyrics and high frequencies, it won’t be well rounded. This of course may not even happen. Maybe the existing 4-6 oem speaker setup will be just fine along side the after market subs, I just wasn’t sure and wanted some input on that.

I have been reading your posts. If I were you I would start with the highs. Get those dialed in. Least amount of money as well. Once you have those handled (speakers and an amplifier with a decent head unit). Then go for the bass. You might not eve want one if you get great sounding components with a decent head unit/amp combo. I am getting ready to start on my 13 370Z. I have some old stuff I am thinking of putting in with a new Sony deck. Let me know how your system turns out and I will share mine. Have fun and good luck! P.S. Install your own stuff. Much more rewading. Just take your time and get the right tools/materials.

 

[DJin TX]

I have been reading your posts. If I were you I would start with the highs. Get those dialed in. Least amount of money as well. Once you have those handled (speakers and an amplifier with a decent head unit). Then go for the bass. You might not eve want one if you get great sounding components with a decent head unit/amp combo. I am getting ready to start on my 13 370Z. I have some old stuff I am thinking of putting in with a new Sony deck. Let me know how your system turns out and I will share mine. Have fun and good luck! P.S. Install your own stuff. Much more rewading. Just take your time and get the right tools/materials.

so let’s say I postpone the subs for now and instead decided to spend the money swapping out factory speakers with after market ones. I would want to keep the factory head unit as it would be integrated with the backup camera and other systems. In doing this, would the existing head unit give the aftermarket speakers enough power to help them shine, or would I need an add-on amp?

Also if I went with this strategy, but then additionally added a single 10 inch sub+amp, does that sound like a good middle ground and possibly a more well rounded system?

 

[zman37]

so let’s say I postpone the subs for now and instead decided to spend the money swapping out factory speakers with after market ones. I would want to keep the factory head unit as it would be integrated with the backup camera and other systems. In doing this, would the existing head unit give the aftermarket speakers enough power to help them shine, or would I need an add-on amp?

Also if I went with this strategy, but then additionally added a single 10 inch sub+amp, does that sound like a good middle ground and possibly a more well rounded system?

The aftermarket head unit will have enough power to make a difference. Stock is about 10 to 20 watts peak where aftermarket is 20 RMS 50 peak. Check out the Sony XAV AX7000(I think that's the correct part number). It's like 50 rms and 100 peak to 4 freaking channels. With the ability to bridge the two rears. That will power a sub 200 watts peak 100 rms. It's popular for motorcycles. But I bet it will fit in your trucks double din space. Try it out for a month or two. Then upgrade to an amp if you feel like it's not quite there.
Make sure to get a head unit with no less than 4 volt pre outs. Pretty sure the Sony I recommended has this or they might even be 5v. That cleans the signal so to speak to your amp.
For the factory controls a lot of the time you can get items like a SWA(steering wheel controls adapter) and backup cam adapter. Ises your factory backup cam on your head unit.
With an aftermarket head unit via a USB you can listen to WMA and FLAC audio files most of the time. Super clean music formats. Rock on!

 

[DJin TX]

The aftermarket head unit will have enough power to make a difference. Stock is about 10 to 20 watts peak where aftermarket is 20 RMS 50 peak. Check out the Sony XAV AX7000(I think that's the correct part number). It's like 50 rms and 100 peak to 4 freaking channels. With the ability to bridge the two rears. That will power a sub 200 watts peak 100 rms. It's popular for motorcycles. But I bet it will fit in your trucks double din space. Try it out for a month or two. Then upgrade to an amp if you feel like it's not quite there.
Make sure to get a head unit with no less than 4 volt pre outs. Pretty sure the Sony I recommended has this or they might even be 5v. That cleans the signal so to speak to your amp.
For the factory controls a lot of the time you can get items like a SWA(steering wheel controls adapter) and backup cam adapter. Ises your factory backup cam on your head unit.
With an aftermarket head unit via a USB you can listen to WMA and FLAC audio files most of the time. Super clean music formats. Rock on!

my plan is a 2022 GMC Sierra,it is said to have an all new interior and as such, no info on how much space it will have. With that said I’m using the 2021 as a rough guide and crutchfield does not recommend replacing factory radio, it says “You can't replace the radio in your vehicle because of dash configuration, safety issues, or electrical compatibility.”

 

[Firewalker]

Go with a DSP then that will allow you to add in amplifiers while having full control over all frequencies as well. Plus you can buy amplifiers with a DSP built in but they do cost a little bit so if that is too high then use a Dayton DSP-408 or a RF DSP or something similar.

 

[DJin TX]

Go with a DSP then that will allow you to add in amplifiers while having full control over all frequencies as well. Plus you can buy amplifiers with a DSP built in but they do cost a little bit so if that is too high then use a Dayton DSP-408 or a RF DSP or something similar.

Sorry I don’t know much. What is a dsp?

 

[DJin TX]

Sorry I don’t know much. What is a dsp?

I just did some googling followed by product searches to figure out this is digital signal processor and man these are very expensive. Is a dsp really necessary? Seems like an after market amp should handle the sound processing and powering the after market speakers

 

[Firewalker]

150 dollars for a Dayton 408 isn't bad at all. And if you don't do a DSP then you need to do a LOC like others recommended those are around 100-125. Only way to integrate amplifiers into a stock OEM head unit and have it done right and sound right.

 

[DJin TX]

150 dollars for a Dayton 408 isn't bad at all. And if you don't do a DSP then you need to do a LOC like others recommended those are around 100-125. Only way to integrate amplifiers into a stock OEM head unit and have it done right and sound right.

This isn’t bad, the dsp’ so found were between 500-2000. I’ll try to find the Dayton one you mention

 

[DJin TX]

This isn’t bad, the dsp’ so found were between 500-2000. I’ll try to find the Dayton one you mention

Ok so I see the Dayton dsp-408 on Amazon for $160, not so bad. Let me know if this all sounds right...

so I keep the head unit that comes with thevtruck and get this dsp, but I also need an amp for the 2-4 after market high/mid speakers that replace oem speakers. Then additionallyI would get either a 1 or 2 sub system, also with an amplifier. From there the other costs would be all the wiring and the subwoofer box. Am I missing anything?

 

[Firewalker]

Yep sounds about right a 4 channel amplifier and a mono block amplifier for the subwoofers. As far as wiring I would look at a 1/0 kit depending on your wattage and talk to @Buck about designing a box if you think you can handle building one yourself. As that will be a lot better then some prefab that isn't built for w/e sub or subwoofers you choose. Look at parts express iirc they were 150 idk if that includes shipping or not. A total amount for everyone would help as well to help point you in the right direction.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I just wasn’t sure and wanted some input on that.

Got it.

 

[DJin TX]

Yep sounds about right a 4 channel amplifier and a mono block amplifier for the subwoofers. As far as wiring I would look at a 1/0 kit depending on your wattage and talk to @Buck about designing a box if you think you can handle building one yourself. As that will be a lot better then some prefab that isn't built for w/e sub or subwoofers you choose. Look at parts express iirc they were 150 idk if that includes shipping or not. A total amount for everyone would help as well to help point you in the right direction.

I appreciate you saying this. My budget is an interesting question, initially i thought $500-600 should be plenty, then quickly re-assessed to $700. Now as we discuss it more, projected equipment needs and costs keep going up, and so I keep trying to find economical ways to check off all the boxes. Initially this began just wanting to add subs, and I would prefer that, but now seems like I also will need some after market coaxials and tweeters (unless the coaxials would be enough for the highs?). And all this also has me wondering if the bass produced by a couple of 6 inch coaxials might be enough bass? I'm thinking at least one sub would be a much better idea, but maybe you all have some thoughts as I am not sure how this plays out in the real world. I know most cars have no sub, but I do like the idea of having some bass you can feel. All in all, I would still like to keep it under $800, and I want Alpine for the speakers/sub(s). For the amps I am not concerned with brand, I just want something that is well-matched to drive the speakers.

Also to be clear, I would love to build/install all this myself, but that's not going to happen. I am old with two small kids and do not have the time or patience to teach myself and possibly mess up my new truck in the process. So, I will have a local car audio installer handle all the heavy lifting.

 

[DJin TX]

Been thinking about this off and on all weekend, and I think re-reading my last post clarified this a bit for me. Since it was my desire for bass that led me down this road, I do want a sub. Also, since I have no desire to blow a couple grand on a system and no need to rattle the other cars at the stoplight, I think a single 10 inch subwoofer is probably the sweet spot for me. Although I will listen to any arguments against this if you have them.

With that in mind, I really just need to make sure I have a good plan for achieving good high and mid frequencies. Assuming that you agree that pairing a single sub with the stock radio and OEM speakers will not provide a balanced sound experience, then could I solve this by adding only a pair of aftermarket 6 inch coaxials that are amped? Or would I need some standalone tweeters as well? I'm not sure what the most well rounded sound profile would be.

From there I also need to figure out the amplifier plan. From what I have read, monoblock amps are much better for bass. Given this, I think my plan would be to go with one monoblock for the sub, and then a 2 channel amp for the coaxials? Does this sound like a good roadmap or is there a better way to achieve better sound and/or a less expensive price tag?

Your thoughts?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Your thoughts?

A few months back, I removed a pair of 8" subs in ported box and a 1200w rms amp from my nephew's '20 Ram. Replaced with a pair of JL Audio 12w1v2 in an upfire ported underseat box, and a JL Audio JX500/1 amp. That night on his way to work, he called all giddy saying, "Man, not gonna lie, I love this system!" OEM everything else. Stick to your original plan and play it by ear.