A car audio tech recommended for me to get my system rewired. Am I getting scammed? Or should I go for it?

[1aespinoza]

There's a guy here at work with one of those

Have you warned him?
Whenever a 250 Hz system pulls up, I just sheepishly turn off mine.

 

[spokey9]

Have you warned him?
Whenever a 250 Hz system pulls up, I just sheepishly turn off mine.

I tried helping the guy...offered to help him "clean" up his wiring for free with a bunch of leftover stuff I got...once he found out I was crossed at 80 he blew me off

 

[1aespinoza]

nce he found out I was crossed at 80 he blew me off

Lol! In his mind you are officially labled as a noob.

 

[spokey9]

Lol! In his mind you are officially labled as a noob.

The sad thing was embarrassed to admit to running that high I need better midbass

 

[AnthonyO]

The quote for $800 is probably because they will:

1. Have to rip everything out
2. Re run power wire, ground wire, speaker wire, and RCA's
3. Install 6x9's
4. Make an amp rack. Or if he wants it under the seat, make a safe way for it to be mounted there.

Cleaning up someone else's mess can get costly. They are taking the chance of something else being wrong (shorted wires, etc.) and being blamed for it. Just my .02

 

[SlugButter]

Yeah. It’s a good price. The insurance companies, government taxes and property managers are one of the main reasons for high prices in the service industries. You should get a 2nd quote if there is another shop in town.

 

[Deiimos]

To me, the overall setup isn't worth dumping $500 - $800 into just rewiring it. With some time and learning, you should be able to get the wiring sorted / cleaned up yourself. Start with the main power wire, make sure it isn't rubbing anything, has a grommet where needed, fused near the battery, and fix the frayed ends at the amp and or get reducers if required. Then move onto just the speaker wires, do one door at a time, one step at a time. I'd personally swap out that oversized speaker wire with some decent 16 gauge to make wiring it up easier, and would be zero difference in performance in that setup, though this isn't critical and the current wiring can work just fine. If you have the money, or don't want to mess with it, then by all means take it to the shop, but the reality is, shop prices are expensive.

 

[HardofWhoring]

You must have missed when I prefaced with "Only issue I see is those bare power cables". It is in my original response to OP.

Lol, I see your point. Let me then ask you; why would you assume the amp was not tucked under the seat before the picture was taken?

FYI, economy electrical tape is rated up to 600v.

Of course it is hindsight. Almost everything that everyone does is based in hindsight. Hindsight and experience walk hand in hand. Do you think OPs installer knew how to connect that amp out the chute? No, someone taught him. Seeing someone do it and applying logic is what made him the professional amp installing god he is today. The reason I assume everything else was done right is because OP told us all was working fine.


Well, we could use hindsight.

If OP asked for your help to install an amplifier because his old one was stolen; all you had to go by was those wires in the picture. Would you be able to figure out the wiring at a glance? Also, it is a 5 channel amp.

No, no, and no.

Yes. OP said all was working good. After the tweeter's install he could not go above "half" volume before it started cutting off. This tells me he could go almost full volume before with no issues.

I would agree with you here but I bet the speaker wiring guide is not printed on the amplifier. That means installer read the manual for guidance. Every amp install manual prefaces with safety practice. That is disconnect battery and install a main fuse near the battery

I concur.

I didn't want to do this, but this is the last time I'm going to respond to the same thing. At this point, it looks like you are just regurgitating your same answers, and trying to justify them with assumptions. I'll throw a few out at ya.
* You're using hindsight wrong. That's not hindsight. Hindsight would be him looking back on this install after he learns, and figuring out why it was wrong in the first place. Experience is the knowledge you gain to improve what you do forward. Hindsight can only be about the past. It's HIND (forming the part that follows or is behind) - sight.
* I'm not assuming the amp wasn't under the seat. You are assuming it was. WHAT IS IN THE PICTURE?? That's all you KNOW. The rest is your assumption.
* Electrical tape can stop voltage, but it doesn't secure a bundle of cables.
* Working fine, does not mean installed right. You can go ahead take the OP's "professional opinion" on it all working fine, BASED ON THIS PICTURE, but you SHOULD know that's ridiculous, and it's coming across as you're just looking for a reason to argue, even if it doesn't add up. Again, this is your assumption that the rest is instaleld right, because the OP thinks it is.
* The installer read what manual? Again this is your assumption. The only amp we see is the sub amp. Power, ground, remote, and 2 speaker wire inputs.

 

[1aespinoza]

inputs

Here are the reasons of my assumptions and why I think there is little danger in this setup.
1. Bared conductors could cause a spark that leads to a fire. Not a threat once the main fuse instatly pops, all power is cut (again, I assume a main fuse exists).
2. Taped speaker wires could touch each other and cause a fire. Not a threat once the amp gets fried, and there is the tape that is made for this type of project. Amp should have a fuse nearby but I do not see it.
3. Unmounted amp may fly around the cabin in case of an accident. This I do see as a threat.
That is it. BTW, the amp is a 5 channel amp. He has the two front and sub channels connected.