6.5 vs 8 midbass?

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I'd like to do this so I can stick with smaller woofers. How would I go about picking a driver?

Two 5.25" drivers is essentially the same as a single 8" so this is feasible. Just look for a mid Q driver that has lots of clean excursion.

 

[loudenuff]

Two 5.25" drivers is essentially the same as a single 8" so this is feasible. Just look for a mid Q driver that has lots of clean excursion.

How about these? I got a pair for a truck box not too long ago

 

[loudenuff]

5.25" Polk Audio Shielded Woofer

 

[loudenuff]

I wouldnt say its difficult. Id say there is a lot to learn. Its so much more than putting all your money into good gear. As anyone who knows car audio would say. Install Install Install. Tbh, install, tune, then gear. in that order. A great install with an aftermarket dsp(or headunit with dsp) can make even stock sound great.
I can tell you that the difference is absolutely worth it.

Id take off your door panels. Look at what you need to seal up. Deaden your doors first.

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

That site has all the info you need. Worth a read. They also have the best deadener around as well. Its been tested.

Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Page 11 - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

look at the very last post on the very last page.

So yea, Deaden your doors. Take a listen. See how that sounds to you. Is your time alignment on your 80prs set or do you have it on auto or something? How do you have that wired btw? are you using it to its full potential? crossovers, slopes, time alignment, eq, ect? using network mode and all.

Once your doors are done. Look into quality amps and quality speakers. Ive been running a sundown 150.4 on my midbass and midrange and its a champ and a very clean sound. There are lots of good amps and speakers out there but thats kinda a subject on its own.

honestly, Active is almost always worth it no matter the build. Once you start to realize what active is capable of doing. Youll understand why its worth the time to learn. One x18 is going to be very loud. You might find your mids and highs drowned out even on proper power. Sound quality and spl builds are pretty much on the opposite ends of eachother. You might just want to get yourself some pwx 8s or 10s or the ultra neo equivalents. Fiberglass yourself some door pods and roll with that.

If you wanted to do both spl and sq. Id try something like. Build door pods for pro audio(short for get loud easy) speakers. Bolt on door pods. Tune with 80prs so its loud and crossed over at the correct points. Then you can go around and bump as much as you want.

For Sq. deadening your doors, sealing them up, eliminating rattles, all the sq stuff. Getting quality mids/highs(installing them).running wires to them. then doing a tune for your SQ needs.

So basically.

Glass some door pods, bolt em on. Run speaker wire from them to your amp. have some pro audio mids/highs in them.

Install your high end mids and highs in your door/sail panel. Run speaker wire from them to your amp.

Tune once for sq. Tune once for SPL. Then all you need to do to go from one to the other is disconnect one set of wires and connect a different set of wires. Have your headunit settings written down for each. one for spl, one for sq.

I just now reading this. And I don't wanna go for spl at all, I just want aggressive lows, and a sq front stage I guess. I don't want to commit to it because I don't have the money yet but as soon as I do I'm definitely gonna go all the way on this. I have Polk r10 5.25 woofers. How would these do in a t line in the door panel? I could just cut the hole out and fiberglass over it

 

[loudenuff]

If you get a JBL MS-2 you'll have cheap and easy way to hear the deference in your own car. If you don't like it you can sell it and only be out a few bucks. The JBL MS-2 is a very good auto tune devise that can be installed adjusted in literally a few minutes.You can find them under $40 on ebay. If you like what it does to the sound with your music then it can decide if you want to go to the time and expense of a full blown DSP learning curve install.

Note, it does have some quirks you need to know about to tune it right, but other than that, you'll get hear what you've been missing pretty quickly.

You do already have a DSP in your 80PRS with a auto tune feature, but i have never found the auto tune part of it to work worth a crap. In my experience it doesn't even come close to auto-tuning like the MS-2 does.

I'm skeptical about that ms2 because it works through auxiliary.. how does that crossover every single precut channel when it's through an aux cord

 

[The Camry]

I just now reading this. And I don't wanna go for spl at all, I just want aggressive lows, and a sq front stage I guess. I don't want to commit to it because I don't have the money yet but as soon as I do I'm definitely gonna go all the way on this. I have Polk r10 5.25 woofers. How would these do in a t line in the door panel? I could just cut the hole out and fiberglass over it

T lines are no joke. Doubt you could get one in a door. Honestly man. I think your highly under estimating the capabilities of a good 2 way set up. You can get good midbass from a 2 way by simply letting an accurate sub handle it. Much of midbass comes from proper time alignment. Seal your doors. Get a good 2 way component set up. Tune it proper and you'll be happy

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

How about these? I got a pair for a truck box not too long ago

I would go with four of these, two per side. Phenomenal drivers.

 

[loudenuff]

T lines are no joke. Doubt you could get one in a door. Honestly man. I think your highly under estimating the capabilities of a good 2 way set up. You can get good midbass from a 2 way by simply letting an accurate sub handle it. Much of midbass comes from proper time alignment. Seal your doors. Get a good 2 way component set up. Tune it proper and you'll be happy
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I'm gonna try two way active before I get a dsp just to try it out. I think I'd like to have separate mid range and tweeter though..

 

---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 PM ----------

 

I would got with four of these, two per side. Phenomenal drivers.

I could pick two more up if it'd be worth it

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

T lines are no joke. Doubt you could get one in a door. Honestly man. I think your highly under estimating the capabilities of a good 2 way set up. You can get good midbass from a 2 way by simply letting an accurate sub handle it. Much of midbass comes from proper time alignment. Seal your doors. Get a good 2 way component set up. Tune it proper and you'll be happy
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You're real rigid, huh. Only one right way to do things kind of guy? No one is trying to undermine a traditional two-way. They're awesome. But it's been done.
This method works. T-lines do not have to be long to be effective and any way that they are lacking you can work some magic with that DSP stuff you're always pushing. Why don't we just encourage the guy and let him experiment?

Remember the first guy who said 8's can't get loud or low? No, because he was stupid. I was doing it in high school so it was pretty funny when I read something like that. But I didn't respond because it wasn't necessary. I'm sure he learned later that they can go low and play loud.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I'm gonna try two way active before I get a dsp just to try it out. I think I'd like to have separate mid range and tweeter though.. 

---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 PM ----------

 

I could pick two more up if it'd be worth it

Yeah but it's not the quantity so much as it is the capabilites of the driver I'm pointing out vs. the ones you're pointing to.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I would go with four of these, two per side. Phenomenal drivers.

Realized I forgot the link, sorry.
Dayton Audio ND140-4 5-1/4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm

 

[The Camry]

You're real rigid, huh. Only one right way to do things kind of guy? No one is trying to undermine a traditional two-way. They're awesome. But it's been done.
This method works. T-lines do not have to be long to be effective and any way that they are lacking you can work some magic with that DSP stuff you're always pushing. Why don't we just encourage the guy and let him experiment?

Remember the first guy who said 8's can't get loud or low? No, because he was stupid. I was doing it in high school so it was pretty funny when I read something like that. But I didn't respond because it wasn't necessary. I'm sure he learned later that they can go low and play loud.

No. I just know a sub can handle midbass duty easier than a 6.5 can. Im trying to guide him to an easier path so he doesnt have to glass and do anything to his door panels

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[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

No. I just know a sub can handle midbass duty easier than a 6.5 can. Im trying to guide him to an easier path so he doesnt have to glass and do anything to his door panels
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Fair enough, simple is good. But midbass doesn't belong in your subwoofers, it belongs up front. Easy is going to land him with the same mediocre sound that we are subjected to when we climb into those types of vehicles with those types of installs. He clearly indicated he wants somethig better. Localization (or lack thereof) is important. You don't want the male registers in your subwoofers, no DSP can correct for that. Keep it up front to begin with and that is easy in my book. A little bit of woodwork and experimenting could land this guy with a great feeling of accomplishment and some sweet up-front bass.
You're right, though. A TL would be an undertaking and the drivers I linked to would thrive in a tiny sealed enclosure. Again, lots of ways to do this. It's nice to see some trick stuff once in a while.

 

[loudenuff]

Fair enough, simple is good. But midbass doesn't belong in your subwoofers, it belongs up front. Easy is going to land him with the same mediocre sound that we are subjected to when we climb into those types of vehicles with those types of installs. He clearly indicated he wants somethig better. Localization (or lack thereof) is important. You don't want the male registers in your subwoofers, no DSP can correct for that. Keep it up front to begin with and that is easy in my book. A little bit of woodwork and experimenting could land this guy with a great feeling of accomplishment and some sweet up-front bass.
You're right, though. A TL would be an undertaking and the drivers I linked to would thrive in a tiny sealed enclosure. Again, lots of ways to do this. It's nice to see some trick stuff once in a while.

The more I think about it the more complicated I wanna make it (lol) I need to become more proficient with wood working bc in tired of paying for enclosures. And I'd find a lot more satisfaction with those I feel like... t lines I mean. I know they're excellent when made correctly for subs. And midbass is always something I've lacked and longed for... i might as well go all out anyways.

I'm looking for several things: clean loud mid bass that matches loud sub bass, loud mid range and loud high range.. I don't want to really lack in mid bass for the fact of it'll have to keep up with a ported 18. I definitely think I want to go for SQ as well... like there's no confusion between spl and SQ. I've had spl with my 10s and my ZCON 15, with barely any focus on the mid stage so I'd like to go the other way plus a loud sub stage this time.. this is probably pretty common goal for anyone doing this. But I'm just emphasizing that I'm not really confused I'm just trying to see how much work goes into doing each route.

That being said, do you think those daytons would do well in t line? What specs do I look for in a t line friendly driver?

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

I'm skeptical about that ms2 because it works through auxiliary.. how does that crossover every single precut channel when it's through an aux cord

I was very skeptical also. That's why mine sat in my garage for almost 2 years before i tried it out. (stupid me)

I can't tell you how it works only that it does. Funny thing is, if i use it on a car with time alignment already adjusted, you have to turn the time alignment off for it to work right, go figure that one out.

It works pretty darn good, Id say in a lot of ways it's on par with the MS-8, within it's limits.