6.5 vs 8 midbass?

[loudenuff]

I'm looking to get better midbass out of my doors. I know for a fact I'll have to do deadening, I have left over cld and mlv from my trunk install. But I was wondering if it was worth all the extra bs I'd have to do to put 8s in my door panels? I hear some cars that come stock with phenomenal midbass.. and I'd like to achieve that given my sub stage will be for low end bass and not really anything above 40hz. I have a jl 360/2 on my doors now, 6.5 and 1" components on a Dayton crossover. But if I were to fix my Rockford p400/4 I could do a 2 way active front stage, or I could run the 4ch and 2ch and get some smaller mid ranges. I probably won't go active on those so I don't have to buy a dsp. Looking for better sound quality and decent bass from the doors, what would be my best money friendly option?

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[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I've had everything from a 5" to a 10" in the door and it is always worth going as big as possible. You'll either use it for going lower or getting louder, and of you have a flexible head unit or other typr of DSP handy, you can do either one on the fly as it suits you. I do this all the time, going anywhere from 40Hz to 80Hz depending on how realistic I want things to be or how abusive I'm being.

Better to go with a bigger driver so it won't have to work as hard going low or getting loud. But like you said, you'll need to be serious about the install. Do it right and you'll get a bit of both, louder and lower.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

fk the 8, jump straight to the 10 inch club and never look back.

 

[loudenuff]

fk the 8, jump straight to the 10 inch club and never look back.

Think so? I'm gonna take your word for it

 

---------- Post added at 12:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------

 

I've had everything from a 5" to a 10" in the door and it is always worth going as big as possible. You'll either use it for going lower or getting louder, and of you have a flexible head unit or other typr of DSP handy, you can do either one on the fly as it suits you. I do this all the time, going anywhere from 40Hz to 80Hz depending on how realistic I want things to be or how abusive I'm being.
Better to go with a bigger driver so it won't have to work as hard going low or getting loud. But like you said, you'll need to be serious about the install. Do it right and you'll get a bit of both, louder and lower.

So say I go for 10s. How the hell do I get them to fit my doors correctly? Lol

 

[The Camry]

Sigh. Okay let me give you an actual answer. The only time you should be running 8s or higher is if you are running a 3 way stage. That being midbass, midrange, tweeter and subwoofer. 8 speakers in all which means you MUST have a external dsp to run everything properly. That and you need a ton of tuning time and learning.

Proper front staging and good midbass comes from 3 things.

Sealing up your doors completely so they are as much of an enclosure as humanely possible.

Perfectly time aligning your subwoofer to your door drivers.

the correct tune and roll off from sub to door drivers.

due to the nature of low frequencies. You locate them by arrival time. So if you delay your front speakers to arrive at the same time as your sub. Youll have that upfront, great, non muddy midbass.

Yes, running 8+'' DEDICATED midbass drivers have alot of pros but you are way beyond your league if you have to even ask what they are or how to install them.

 

[loudenuff]

Sigh. Okay let me give you an actual answer. The only time you should be running 8s or higher is if you are running a 3 way stage. That being midbass, midrange, tweeter and subwoofer. 8 speakers in all which means you MUST have a external dsp to run everything properly. That and you need a ton of tuning time and learning.
Proper front staging and good midbass comes from 3 things.

Sealing up your doors completely so they are as much of an enclosure as humanely possible.

Perfectly time aligning your subwoofer to your door drivers.

the correct tune and roll off from sub to door drivers.

due to the nature of low frequencies. You locate them by arrival time. So if you delay your front speakers to arrive at the same time as your sub. Youll have that upfront, great, non muddy midbass.

Yes, running 8+'' DEDICATED midbass drivers have alot of pros but you are way beyond your league if you have to even ask what they are or how to install them.

I may have no experience actually running active but I wouldn't say that's out of my league.. I'm pretty well educated on it considering I've never had or worked with an active system. When I asked how should I mount it I was just looking for pointers on how to create a baffle in my door and get it to fit with a door panel.. I didn't really want to spend the money on a dsp but i will if need be. I also would like to know which diy components work well together sq wise. I really want to go 3 way active. I just don't want to deal with fiberglassing lol I tried once and failed so I'd like to save myself the money

 

[loudenuff]

I also have no locals with an rta. I'd have to drive 3 hours to tacoma to have that done. Which was another reason i wanted to avoid it

 

[The Camry]

I also have no locals with an rta. I'd have to drive 3 hours to tacoma to have that done. Which was another reason i wanted to avoid it

You'd need an rta for a good 2 way as well. Going 3 way plus sub gives you extremely good dynamics in the midbass region however A 3 WAY IS NOT NEEDED for a good sounding system or for good midbass.

Id urge you to do your best to seal up your doors. Get a solid 2 way component set such as the Hertz hsk165s and a 80prs. Its 2 way plus sub active headunit with time alignment and a 16band eq.

Then read this link and get this mic.

First-timers guide to measuring your system - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

https://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1

if your set on a 3 way. Get the Minidsp C-dsp. Its the best bang for the buck as far as DSPs go.

heres a link i started awhile back for budget 3 way.

3 way. 100$ 200$ 300$ - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

 

[The Camry]

The Essentials of Sound Quality IMHO - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

GlassWolf's Pages

enjoy

 

[loudenuff]

You'd need an rta for a good 2 way as well. Going 3 way plus sub gives you extremely good dynamics in the midbass region however A 3 WAY IS NOT NEEDED for a good sounding system or for good midbass.
Id urge you to do your best to seal up your doors. Get a solid 2 way component set such as the Hertz hsk165s and a 80prs. Its 2 way plus sub active headunit with time alignment and a 16band eq.

Then read this link and get this mic.

First-timers guide to measuring your system - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

https://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1

if your set on a 3 way. Get the Minidsp C-dsp. Its the best bang for the buck as far as DSPs go.

heres a link i started awhile back for budget 3 way.

3 way. 100$ 200$ 300$ - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

I'm running the 80prs already but I'm goin to read up on these links and get back to you on it. One more question though, what happens when you seal your doors and a window motor goes bad... what would you do in that situation

 

[The Camry]

I'm running the 80prs already but I'm goin to read up on these links and get back to you on it. One more question though, what happens when you seal your doors and a window motor goes bad... what would you do in that situation

Depends on how you seal it and how big the holes are.. I have mine sealed with multiple layers of fiberglass so its a bit of a POS for me. But I pretty much have one gigantic hole as my inner door metal so I had to go extreme. Some people just cut out a piece of cardboard the size of the hole. Layer both sides with deadener then slap it on.

Some people glass the holes closed.

Some people cut out 1/8 aluminum in the shape of the hole and screw it in with sheet metal screws.

Some people take aluminum strips and screw them over the holes in layers.

There's alot of ways to do it. Its car dependent kinda.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

[The Camry]

Also dont be afraid of fiberglass. Its your friend. Most people have a terrible first experience due to using bondo brand or walmart similar. That stuff is absolutely horrendous. Hit up a boat repair shop and ask if they will sell you some. I get a gallon and enough mekp for it for $50 that way. They buy it by the barrel so they dont mind usually. Get thr cloth/mat from them as well.

When measuring mekp. I always use just a lil more than recommended. Look up a chart online of ratios. Its usually really easy.

What I did was buy a pack of red cups. Pour the resin into a 1 cup measuring cup (1 cup =8fl oz.) Then pour the resin into the cup. From that point on. You know how much 8fl oz looks like in a cup.

Go to a pharmacy (walmart) and ask for a ML or CC measuring thing. They gave me it for free. It looks like a syringe without the needle.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

[loudenuff]

Also dont be afraid of fiberglass. Its your friend. Most people have a terrible first experience due to using bondo brand or walmart similar. That stuff is absolutely horrendous. Hit up a boat repair shop and ask if they will sell you some. I get a gallon and enough mekp for it for $50 that way. They buy it by the barrel so they dont mind usually. Get thr cloth/mat from them as well.
When measuring mekp. I always use just a lil more than recommended. Look up a chart online of ratios. Its usually really easy.

What I did was buy a pack of red cups. Pour the resin into a 1 cup measuring cup (1 cup =8fl oz.) Then pour the resin into the cup. From that point on. You know how much 8fl oz looks like in a cup.

Go to a pharmacy (walmart) and ask for a ML or CC measuring thing. They gave me it for free. It looks like a syringe without the needle.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

Whelp this is going to be a bit difficult. But worth it I presume. I wish there were more people in my area that went active so I can hear the difference to decide what I want.

So if I were to go active where do I start? What should my first step be in purchasing so I can build around it. Like driver wise, dsp, deadening. I have deadener to do deadening I just don't have a garage and I live in a garage less duplex.

Also would it be worth going active in a high spl car? I wouldn't really refer to my car as a high spl car but I'm putting an x 18 in there and tuning it low.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

One of each per door... Good day.. Active is the only way no matter spl car or golf cart. 3 way is great for sure but u can create a 2 way thats loud an clear without much effort.. Pick correct speakers to match. Mids 85hz-3to4k then have tweet take over.

 

[loudenuff]

One of each per door... Good day.. Active is the only way no matter spl car or golf cart.

One of each what per door?