6.5 vs 8 midbass?

[The Camry]

Whelp this is going to be a bit difficult. But worth it I presume. I wish there were more people in my area that went active so I can hear the difference to decide what I want. So if I were to go active where do I start? What should my first step be in purchasing so I can build around it. Like driver wise, dsp, deadening. I have deadener to do deadening I just don't have a garage and I live in a garage less duplex.

Also would it be worth going active in a high spl car? I wouldn't really refer to my car as a high spl car but I'm putting an x 18 in there and tuning it low.

I wouldnt say its difficult. Id say there is a lot to learn. Its so much more than putting all your money into good gear. As anyone who knows car audio would say. Install Install Install. Tbh, install, tune, then gear. in that order. A great install with an aftermarket dsp(or headunit with dsp) can make even stock sound great.

I can tell you that the difference is absolutely worth it.

Id take off your door panels. Look at what you need to seal up. Deaden your doors first.

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

That site has all the info you need. Worth a read. They also have the best deadener around as well. Its been tested.

Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Page 11 - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

look at the very last post on the very last page.

So yea, Deaden your doors. Take a listen. See how that sounds to you. Is your time alignment on your 80prs set or do you have it on auto or something? How do you have that wired btw? are you using it to its full potential? crossovers, slopes, time alignment, eq, ect? using network mode and all.

Once your doors are done. Look into quality amps and quality speakers. Ive been running a sundown 150.4 on my midbass and midrange and its a champ and a very clean sound. There are lots of good amps and speakers out there but thats kinda a subject on its own.

honestly, Active is almost always worth it no matter the build. Once you start to realize what active is capable of doing. Youll understand why its worth the time to learn. One x18 is going to be very loud. You might find your mids and highs drowned out even on proper power. Sound quality and spl builds are pretty much on the opposite ends of eachother. You might just want to get yourself some pwx 8s or 10s or the ultra neo equivalents. Fiberglass yourself some door pods and roll with that.

If you wanted to do both spl and sq. Id try something like. Build door pods for pro audio(short for get loud easy) speakers. Bolt on door pods. Tune with 80prs so its loud and crossed over at the correct points. Then you can go around and bump as much as you want.

For Sq. deadening your doors, sealing them up, eliminating rattles, all the sq stuff. Getting quality mids/highs(installing them).running wires to them. then doing a tune for your SQ needs.

So basically.

Glass some door pods, bolt em on. Run speaker wire from them to your amp. have some pro audio mids/highs in them.

Install your high end mids and highs in your door/sail panel. Run speaker wire from them to your amp.

Tune once for sq. Tune once for SPL. Then all you need to do to go from one to the other is disconnect one set of wires and connect a different set of wires. Have your headunit settings written down for each. one for spl, one for sq.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

One of each what per door?

One 6&8 per door. I always run dual mids per door just no reason not to. Cone area ftw. Lil fab wrk is worth every penny an sec spent. Crap fs with sub stage is the worst sound imo

 

[The Camry]

One 6&8 per door. I always run dual mids per door just no reason not to. Cone area ftw. Lil fab wrk is worth every penny an sec spent. Crap fs with sub stage is the worst sound imo

cept he doesnt know if he wants spl or sq. If hes going spl then yea. cone area all day long but he needs to decide what he wants to do.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Whelp this is going to be a bit difficult. But worth it I presume. I wish there were more people in my area that went active so I can hear the difference to decide what I want. So if I were to go active where do I start? What should my first step be in purchasing so I can build around it. Like driver wise, dsp, deadening. I have deadener to do deadening I just don't have a garage and I live in a garage less duplex.

Also would it be worth going active in a high spl car? I wouldn't really refer to my car as a high spl car but I'm putting an x 18 in there and tuning it low.

To be honest, you are over thinking this. Grab an 80 prs do some pwx10s or 8s in each door paired with nice dome or radiator tweets with an 80 prs with good deadening and lots of time invested in tuning you will be able to hold your own in both SQ and SPL.

I easily beat out many systems with mid tier (400 to 800$) hertz and focal components simply due to proper tuning and deadening and positioning .

Can also keep up with 152db of sub stage when called upon. Its called custom eq 1 and 2. One for sq, the other for demos

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

Whelp this is going to be a bit difficult. But worth it I presume. I wish there were more people in my area that went active so I can hear the difference to decide what I want. So if I were to go active where do I start? What should my first step be in purchasing so I can build around it. Like driver wise, dsp, deadening. I have deadener to do deadening I just don't have a garage and I live in a garage less duplex.

Also would it be worth going active in a high spl car? I wouldn't really refer to my car as a high spl car but I'm putting an x 18 in there and tuning it low.

If you get a JBL MS-2 you'll have cheap and easy way to hear the deference in your own car. If you don't like it you can sell it and only be out a few bucks. The JBL MS-2 is a very good auto tune devise that can be installed adjusted in literally a few minutes.

You can find them under $40 on ebay. If you like what it does to the sound with your music then it can decide if you want to go to the time and expense of a full blown DSP learning curve install.

Note, it does have some quirks you need to know about to tune it right, but other than that, you'll get hear what you've been missing pretty quickly.

You do already have a DSP in your 80PRS with a auto tune feature, but i have never found the auto tune part of it to work worth a crap. In my experience it doesn't even come close to auto-tuning like the MS-2 does.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Think so? I'm gonna take your word for it 

---------- Post added at 12:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 AM ----------

 

So say I go for 10s. How the hell do I get them to fit my doors correctly? Lol

It's a job, for sure. I have pictures somewhere. I completely removed the old door panel and made a new one from MDF, Bondo, vinyl, tweed, relocated the window track back by about an inch, etc... but you can also mod your existing door panels with fiberglass as mentioned. You can also make attempts to create a sealed or aperiodically damped enclosure so that you're not relying on the volume of the door and such.
Also, the head you have is fine for the job if you get creative and have amplifiers with decent crossover sections. It's an old school approach but I believe you could do it something like this; If you run the head in two-way mode you should be able to direct the "front" outputs to a set of components and highpass them with your amplifier/head as applicable. Send the "rear" outputs to the set of 8-10" in the door and bandpass those with your amplifier/head as applicable. Send the "sub" outs to the sub.

You can still do time alignment and EQ with the head but crossovers will be tricky. You'll need to see what your amp can do vs what your head can do and don't double up on that, use one or the other. I would shoot for crossover points in the neighborhood of below 40-63Hz for sub duty, bandpass your 8" or 10" using 40-63Hz through 200-300Hz, then hand off 200-300Hz and above to the set of components using the passive crossover between the tweeter and mid. A nice set of 4" - 5.25" coaxials would be the best in this situation.

I used to do this all the time and that was back when we didn't have much in the way of time alignment. Back then if you wanted imaging, you placed the drivers accordingly. lol

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Found the pics.

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Had to cut that out the door^



2 10s

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

2 10s

Looks good.

 

[The Camry]

heavy door..

 

[loudenuff]

Had to cut that out the door^



2 10s

How could I do an enclosure behind the subs in the door panel? Is this possible?

 

[loudenuff]

Looks good.

Something interesting I saw was a pair of DD midbass 6.5/8 not sure, dropped in a t line and put into the doors

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Something interesting I saw was a pair of DD midbass 6.5/8 not sure, dropped in a t line and put into the doors

I've seen similar setups and it's genius. Up front bass, for sure. It would go low and vibration wouldn't even be much of an issue. Win/Win

 

[loudenuff]

I've seen similar setups and it's genius. Up front bass, for sure. It would go low and vibration wouldn't even be much of an issue. Win/Win

I'd like to do this so I can stick with smaller woofers. How would I go about picking a driver?

 

[Hertz Mafia]

How could I do an enclosure behind the subs in the door panel? Is this possible?

Like this but keep that back piece of wood solid. Then the woofers would have a sealed chamber