6.5 Components good for 150 RMS?

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

RMS ratings don't mean everything. Some speakers can safely handle WAY more than their recommended wattage...

yeah but most people that bought the pg rsd's and swore they took 150rms+ a piece and sounded great, usually a week or two later complained about tweeters being blown.

im sure there are sets that handle more than their rms safely but you are usually talking mid to high dollar sets that can do that, in most cases budget comps should be kept near their ratings.

 

[5dollapizza 10+ year member]

i've got 175rms going to my rf power 6.5's crossed at 80hz and they love it. going on five months now. i'm sure there's people on here that have some better sq driver suggestions that can take that power, but i can tell you first hand these will take that power daily, get plenty loud, and sound very decent doing it.

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

isnt there a jumper or something in the rsd crossover to attenuate the tweet?

 

[5dollapizza 10+ year member]

should be, but haven't seen them personally. the crossovers that came with my rf's has a jumper for 0, -2, and -4, along with the other jumpers you would set for biamping the set. even my old fanatic q system has that.

 

[Anniku989 10+ year member]

isnt there a jumper or something in the rsd crossover to attenuate the tweet?

There's a switch, i'm pretty sure its for 0 & -2

 

[Sarthos 10+ year member]

It just makes sense to me at least that if I were to get a set of speakers that were rated at 150 RMS and run them at 150 RMS they'd last longer than speakers that are only like 100 RMS. I'd also prefer not to run anything at a higher RMS wattage than its advertised peak wattage (like the Phoenix). Going through like 10 speakers trying to find something I can run at that wattage doesn't sound fun.

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

xs 65s rated for 125 but in the comp vehicle they are running 700 or so to em with no problems

 

[Sarthos 10+ year member]

Alright, I do have a decent number of suggestions, but does anybody have any suggestions of what I might want to look for for speakers on country/older music?

Also, keep in mind this is a daily driver, so if something can take a bunch of wattage in a comp car for a few seconds or minutes, it might not fare as well as being played for like half an hour at a time, twice a day.

 

[MrMckie 10+ year member]

my infinity kappas were getting 125w each with no problems.

 

[altoncustomtech 10+ year member]

I'd like to point out that the PG RSD's are actually rated 120wrms, the back of the woofer says 5-120max on it and the online stores assume half that for the rms rating (hence the 60rms)...... PG themselves state they are rated for 120RMS all day long..... and for anyone who has problems with blowing tweeters, any brand, just buy a couple of dome light bulbs from the auto parts store and install them in the positive wire to the tweeter and you'll save them...... sound like bull I know but that's how BOSE protects it's tweeters on the 801 and 901 series and Polk uses them on the SR6500's..... I have them in the lines for my tweets, Hifonics Atlas components getting 150rms a pair, rated for 125 and haven't had one pop yet.........

just my worthless .02....

 

[DUMPED 10+ year member]

I have a BNIB component set from Crossfire.

Its their NEO 6.5" component set.

let me know if you're interested.

 

[thaster 10+ year member]

if you could find them, i'll say go buy some Crystal SSCS6 comp set. im giving mines 175 rms daily for almost 2 years now driving at least an hour a day. still sound as good as when i first bought them.

 

[mmouse57 10+ year member]

PPI 365ci's can do 200w rms no prob and get loud

 

[Sarthos 10+ year member]

How the heck will that save tweeters? That sounds like a way of fusing the tweeters, and dome lights will blow if you try to run that much power from them won't they?

What kind of differences would I notice between a bunch of the aforementioned speakers? I know that the different sensitivity makes quite a difference for speakers, but for the rest of the things like cone material and such?

 

[eharri3 10+ year member]

It just makes sense to me at least that if I were to get a set of speakers that were rated at 150 RMS and run them at 150 RMS they'd last longer than speakers that are only like 100 RMS. I'd also prefer not to run anything at a higher RMS wattage than its advertised peak wattage (like the Phoenix). Going through like 10 speakers trying to find something I can run at that wattage doesn't sound fun.

May make sense to you but it's an incorrect assumption. The way power is delivered to speakers has been rehashed on here so many times I won't go into it except... realize that if your amp EVER delivers rms wattage to your speakers it will be extremely rare, and ony occur at instances when your head unit is cranked almost to the max and you hit a loud point in a specific song. Might not even happen but for a split second. For much of the time during normal listening at moderate volume it may surprise you to know that your big beefy 150 watt amplifier may only be sending between 10 and 50 watts to each driver.

Power doesn't kill speakers, the user's setting does. Don't believe the hype about over or underpowering causing instant speaker death. I could run a 100 watt speaker off either a 15 watt head unit or a 200 watt amp all day long for years without a problem. (I've done both.) Wattage ratings are a general reference point and they mean almost nothing. The more power the better. The more power you have, the more likely you will be satisfied with your system's loudness at moderate gain settings. If you are running at closer to rms or below it and you aren't happy with the loudness, you may be tempted to fix the problem with tuning rather than more power and better equipment. THIS is where people usually get themselves into trouble. Everybody has bought into this bs that your system will sound perfect regardless of whatever mediocre equipment you have so long as you match rms ratings perfectly and get speakers with big wattage numbers on the box. When they are dissappointed they proceed to slowly burn up their stuff in an effort to wring more out of it.

Go overboard with the power then ease off on the gain dial. You won't be sorry. There are some high end 2 or 3 way systems out there I've heard of with RMS ratings of 150-180 watts, most good systems I know of are rated for 100-120 watts and get 200 or more thrown at them by alot of people.