4ohms Stereo to 2ohms Stereo

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

What exactly is it that you're after?

By adding other speakers, while going through the passive xover, will change your xover points. And to who said 8 ohm + 4 ohm = 6 ohm, WRONG. Look up ohms law and apply. It'd be 2.66 ohms.

Whatever you're after, I think you're going about it all wrong.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What exactly is it that you're after?
By adding other speakers, while going through the passive xover, will change your xover points. And to who said 8 ohm + 4 ohm = 6 ohm, WRONG. Look up ohms law and apply. It'd be 2.66 ohms.

Whatever you're after, I think you're going about it all wrong.

Im wanting to bring my 2ch amp from 4ohms to 2ohms/stereo,and Id like to add my tweet in the pillars/in which it is all set up that way to begin with.At this time, I have the xtra 4ohm tweeter in the pillars,and the component 3ways are in the doors(tweet in the door/6.5/and 4in sub,and is a 4ohm component set.The extra tweet is a 4ohm,and is ran off of the tweeter section of the xover box along with the door tweet.Is this at a 2ohm load already off of the xover box,or do I need to supply the extra tweet off of the amp power rather than off of the xover box to get 2ohms?I thought that that an 8ohm and a 4ohm would be around 2 1/2 ohms.We can forget that mid(8ohm) just doint the extra tweet(4ohm) along with the 3way components 4ohm.Thanks

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Basicly just adding another tweet in the pillars, and making sure done right to get to 2ohms stereo.Thats it..either off of the xover,or before, is all i am asking of..Thanks

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

What exactly is it that you're after?
By adding other speakers, while going through the passive xover, will change your xover points. And to who said 8 ohm + 4 ohm = 6 ohm, WRONG. Look up ohms law and apply. It'd be 2.66 ohms.

Whatever you're after, I think you're going about it all wrong.

this

If you want to add an extra tweeter, do not run it through that crossover as you will change the crossover points. Do you know what ohm load you are currently running? Check it with your DMM. Assuming it is already running at 4 ohms, and you must add the extra tweeter, put a cap in line with them in relation to what frequency you would like them crossed. If the tweeter is 4 ohm, and your current fronts are 4 ohm final, your amp will see 2 ohms. However, I must say its not a good idea. That tweeter will, in theory, see more power than each of those other drivers in the 3 way. Since their power is being split up by the xover. If you are wanting extra volume, I think you are def going about it the wrong way.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

this
If you want to add an extra tweeter, do not run it through that crossover as you will change the crossover points. Do you know what ohm load you are currently running? Check it with your DMM. Assuming it is already running at 4 ohms, and you must add the extra tweeter, put a cap in line with them in relation to what frequency you would like them crossed. If the tweeter is 4 ohm, and your current fronts are 4 ohm final, your amp will see 2 ohms. However, I must say its not a good idea. That tweeter will, in theory, see more power than each of those other drivers in the 3 way. Since their power is being split up by the xover. If you are wanting extra volume, I think you are def going about it the wrong way.

Thats the answer I needed to know, @the 2ohm load that Im needing to put the new amp in.The Eq/Preamp will help me adjust the level of the tweet/and or volumes needed, as it does already.I thank you.Just needed that answer.That tweet has a cap already,and I will configure or cut it off, at the frequency needed.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Everything is adjustable through that preamp eq,is why it was added to the system.By the way..I recommend a preamp to everyone that is looking for a sq system,so the two oms it will be..Thanks

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Thats the answer I needed to know, @the 2ohm load that Im needing to put the new amp in.The Eq/Preamp will help me adjust the level of the tweet/and or volumes needed, as it does already.I thank you.Just needed that answer.That tweet has a cap already,and I will configure or cut it off, at the frequency needed.

that eq is going to cause you to blow that new tweet considering you are going to be putting 60+watts rms to just the tweeter take any distortion added to that power and kiss that speaker goodbye. if all you want is and extra tweeter just put it with your current tweeter off the cross-over though this wont allow u to run 2 ohm. in reality you arent going to be able to run two ohm and have the ability to adjust that added speaker to keep it from being in your face loud. reason i say this is because when you try to turn it down it will also turn down your current speakers which will not be any louder than they are currently.

i really dont know why you are dead set on two ohm but hey thats you. on my m-class components i have the ability to bi-amp them at the cross-overs. so i did except i ran the mid and tweeter parallel to achieve the two ohm load while only using two channels. but it was no different than running the speakers in a regular bi-amp set-up.

time-alignment can do alot more than adding power, not to mention actually aiming them correctly.

and that rear speaker is going to be a pain with as high as it is to tame down. then again you could just fade it out

and eq's don't do near as much for a person as properly aiming the speakers. my 5 band eq is more than enough to do what i need it to do and its built in to my headunit.

 

[globalminds_ent 10+ year member]

4 sounds better anyways

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

4 sounds better anyways

please do-not come into this there is to much mis-information as is.

4ohm does not sound any better as 2ohm in theory yes and idc what a da*n book says it will not be noticeable to the ear.

maybe going from a a/b class amp running 1ohm to the same amp at 4ohm, but i can assure u, u will not hear the difference in 1, 2, or 4 ohm.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

please do-not come into this there is to much mis-information as is.
4ohm does not sound any better as 2ohm in theory yes and idc what a da*n book says it will not be noticeable to the ear.

maybe going from a a/b class amp running 1ohm to the same amp at 4ohm, but i can assure u, u will not hear the difference in 1, 2, or 4 ohm.

I was about to say this but didn't wanna start a huge debate

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I was about to say this but didn't wanna start a huge debate

yea he has a tendency to debate on everything, i can prove this in my own truck though by just changing how i biamp my components.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

that eq is going to cause you to blow that new tweet considering you are going to be putting 60+watts rms to just the tweeter take any distortion added to that power and kiss that speaker goodbye. if all you want is and extra tweeter just put it with your current tweeter off the cross-over though this wont allow u to run 2 ohm. in reality you arent going to be able to run two ohm and have the ability to adjust that added speaker to keep it out of your face loud. reason i say this is because when you try to turn it down it will turn down your current speakers which will not be any louder than they are currently.
i really dont know why you are dead set on two ohm but hey thats you. on my m-class components i have the ability to bi-amp them at the cross-overs. so i did except i ran the mid and tweeter parallel to achieve the two ohm load while only using two channels. but it was no different than running the speakers in a regular bi-amp set-up.

time-alignment can do alot more than adding power, not to mention actually aiming them correctly.

and that rear speaker is going to be a pain with as high as it is to tame down. then again you could just fade it out

Im needing the extra power out of the amp to push the components close to the rms that they need, and without using a bigger amplifier, and want to go all HifonicsVII,VIII seriesZed,with what I have.I have it set up that way off the xover as you have stated, and does sound fine,and i am able to adjust the pitch of the tweets with the 9band eq.As for the tweets added, they are old school Kappas 1inch, 150rms for the set 4ohm,and the rears, I have the ability to adjust the gain to blend in without being over bearing,and can fade them. really sounds awesome/gives me that surround affect/fill.Im not sure if I am able to do that with the xovers I have,but may be able to.Never thought of that.Something to look into tomorrow.Thanks for the info.Just trying to work with what I have and get the most out of the amplifier for the components up front,and not get drounded by the subs too much.I do have another amplifier that i could add for just the tweets,and y off of the rcas,from the front,and add my VIII Pluto on those@4ohms

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Dropping to 2 ohms by adding a tweeter in parallel with your current comps won't increase power to that comp set. True, your amp will put out more power, but it also has another driver to provide power to so that extra power u gained, went to the tweeters U added and the comps are still getting the same power as before. But, you have a potentially overly bright tweeter with no way to adjust its gain separately and overall, more of a loss than gain in overall sound IMO.

I'd say work on your install first and consider going active for what you're wanting to do.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Im needing the extra power out of the amp to push the components close to the rms that they need, and without using a bigger amplifier, and want to go all HifonicsVII,VIII seriesZed,with what I have.I have it set up that way off the xover as you have stated, and does sound fine,and i am able to adjust the pitch of the tweets with the 9band eq.As for the tweets added, they are old school Kappas 1inch, 150rms for the set 4ohm,and the rears, I have the ability to adjust the gain to blend in without being over bearing,and can fade them. really sounds awesome/gives me that surround affect/fill.Im not sure if I am able to do that with the xovers I have,but may be able to.Never thought of that.Something to look into tomorrow.Thanks for the info.Just trying to work with what I have and get the most out of the amplifier for the components up front,and not get drounded by the subs too much.I do have another amplifier that i could add for just the tweets,and y off of the rcas,from the front,and add my VIII Pluto on those@4ohms

put your bigger amp on your components you have and take the smaller for the tweets with a passive cap to keep the bass out of them. i wouldnt try and make you highs loud as fawk if you dont know how your bass will sound.

worst case you think you have ****** bass but your highs will drown the bass out and make your bass sound weak.

yea i know you can turn your highs down but once you hear your bass compared to your highs you might be thinking why did i go through all this trouble just to have to turn them down.

i always build my bass first then my highs. but really i never needed more than 1 2way component set run biamped or active off about 160w. and then ive had to turn my highs down quite a bit..

my last set-up was 2 z12s walled in my cruze and my highs werent lacking midbass was but cant ask for competing midbass with 150db of music. as long as everything is on axis you should be fine. this is the reason i say aiming is important. power helps but you arent gaining power anywhere except on the new tweeter

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

put your bigger amp on your components you have and take the smaller for the tweets with a passive cap to keep the bass out of them. i wouldnt try and make you highs loud as fawk if you dont know how your bass will sound.
worst case you think you have ****** bass but your highs will drown the bass out and make your bass sound weak.

yea i know you can turn your highs down but once you hear your bass compared to your highs you might be thinking why did i go through all this trouble just to have to turn them down.

i always build my bass first then my highs. but really i never needed more than 1 2way component set run biamped or active off about 160w. and then ive had to turn my highs down quite a bit..

my last set-up was 2 z12s walled in my cruze and my highs werent lacking midbass was but cant ask for competing midbass with 150db of music. as long as everything is on axis you should be fine. this is the reason i say aiming is important. power helps but you arent gaining power anywhere except on the new tweeter

I appreciate the info that Im recieving upon the matter at hand.Its important to me to get this right this time, and be able to exchange my amps later on to my original set up that I had for 4yrs,with the same subs(4) on 2 sets of Autotek BTS 7150 @2ohms, and the BTS 7204-4ch,and a BTS 7050.Ive had this same set up before in this truck, but with different amps,and I have been working on it as i recovered it (Jacked up)stolen/taken subs, and amps last yr,and putting it back into place as I had it , but with different amps, and using new speakers,and hu,that I have, and got drownded almost by the subs.Thought that running @2ohms will be best this time on the subs(not 1ohm)and running @2ohms (not 4ohms) all together this time,was looking for the correct way to achieve the 2ohms from the amp with the set up i have, and leaving the tweet where it is,or adding another set with power,or both on a 2ch amp.That bass is going to be pretty loud,i know for sure, is why I added the tweets the last time,but came off the xover of the original 3way components,and was looking to see if the tweet added before the xover box would get me that 2ohms.I will look int the biamp situation,that would solve my problem,and achieve what I really want.