3 quick questions!

[Tek18 10+ year member]

2 quick questions.

A. I heard a rumor when wiring the amp, the fuse has to be within 12 inches of the battery ( or amp, can't remember which one ) is that true? i planned to put it under a seat, so like 6' out haha.

B. What is this silver sheeting people put in the doors of their car, under the trunk, " Sound blocker" or something?? what does it do and why do people put it in their car?

C. i have read a few threads and all i got was mixed messages. Can i mount my amp on the side of my box? ( 90 degrees )

 

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------

 

3 quick questions* not 2

 

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------

 

3 quick questions* not 2

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[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

The fuse should be within 18", usually between the battery and before the wire goes through the firewall into the cabin.

That is sound deadener. It stiffens panels to lower resonant frequency and reduce rattle, vibration, and flex. It's one of 3 products used to help acoustical response of the ride.

Yes you can mount the amp on the side so long as the box is sturdy and well built, and isn't flexing too much, it should be a problem. It helps to put some little rubber washers under the mounting feet between amp and box to dampen vibrations.

 

[Tek18 10+ year member]

i gatcha, should i put some sound deadner in my car? if im running a SSD 15" at 1200RMS

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

The fuse should be within 18", usually between the battery and before the wire goes through the firewall into the cabin.
That is sound deadener. It stiffens panels to lower resonant frequency and reduce rattle, vibration, and flex. It's one of 3 products used to help acoustical response of the ride.

Yes you can mount the amp on the side so long as the box is sturdy and well built, and isn't flexing too much, it should be a problem. It helps to put some little rubber washers under the mounting feet between amp and box to dampen vibrations.

Just want to clarify that deadener is not designed to reduce flex, it's designed to reduce rattling. If you want to reduce flex you can use some thin steel bars and weld/epoxy them to the vehicle, or use some wood and secure it to the vehicle through means of Loctite.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

Just want to clarify that deadener is not designed to reduce flex, it's designed to reduce rattling. If you want to reduce flex you can use some thin steel bars and weld/epoxy them to the vehicle, or use some wood and secure it to the vehicle through means of Loctite.

wrong, deadner is to reduce flex.

closed cell foam is to stop rattling.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

the way to dampen or prepare your cabin is:

use deadener on flat area's, coverage should be 25-30%

then a layer of closed cell foam

then a layer of mass loaded vinyl

multiple layers of deadener and using it improperly is just a waste of time and money. another thing you can do is use extruded butyl rope between door/roof skins and the braces. you can also silicone the plastic pieces together as well. I'm going to do some experiments with acoustical insulation in the dead area's in the unibody of my car see if it does anything.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Just want to clarify that deadener is not designed to reduce flex, it's designed to reduce rattling. If you want to reduce flex you can use some thin steel bars and weld/epoxy them to the vehicle, or use some wood and secure it to the vehicle through means of Loctite.

Oh? I noticed a lot less trunk flex when I deadened my trunk lid. And a lot less rattle. But I thought it's purpose was to stiffen larger flat panels?

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Oh? I noticed a lot less trunk flex when I deadened my trunk lid. And a lot less rattle. But I thought it's purpose was to stiffen larger flat panels?

Consequently it does reduce flex because you are adding mass but that's not the main purpose of it. That's the reason there is bracing in the first place

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Deadener works in 2 ways. The first is to change the resonant frequency of a panel thus creating less rattles. The second way is to mass load a panel to lower the level of flexing involved.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

So after my mis-information and the following corrections... yea you could probably benefit from some deadener, only if the rattles bug you. I'd wait a bit with the system in, give it a few weeks or so to see what bugs you and what not before jumping into the deadener stuff.

 

[audio_guy 10+ year member]

A) Fusing is at most times now a personal preferance. Some people fuse and some dont. I dont measure exactly how long the wire is between my fuses but I would guess maybe 10" from the battery and about 6" from my amp in the rear. Fusing both places is an extra measure just incase something happens to pierce the insulation, it will blow both fuses and not damage my amp.

B) Most of the metal "sheeting" you see is a form of a CLD tile. It is a reasonance barrier. It is to prevent pannels, such as door skins, to keep from reasonating. It in-sense is a stick on mass substrate to add weight to the panel. You use it to keep the horrible sound of sheet metal flapping down.

C) In some cases mounting the amp directly to the box is a bad idea. Some amps that use spring clips will vibrate loose and cause the amp to go into protect. Common with the older Sundown 3000's. If you absolutely have to mount the amp to the box and have no other place to put it, I normally put some form of a rubber spacer, i.e.; small grommet or a solid piece of rubber drilled and rouded, and put that between the amp and the box on the mounting feet.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

1. The fuse should be no more than 18" from the batt this is to protect the wiring from too much current draw. If you compete, some organizations like MECA require you to have a fuse with 12" of the amp, to try and put a bottle neck on the current drawn, with the idea "to do as much as you can with as little as possible."

2. Sound deadening is to stop/lower panel resonance. You can add other materials as mentioned above to cancel/lower all outside resonances to cut down on any cancellation or phase issues that might arise.

3. I do not advise mounting the amp on the box, unless the box has been THOROUGHLY stiffened via internal bracing or resin. And use rubber feet underneath to dampen any vibrations that might happen.