2019 GMC Terrain 4th order "wall"

Walls are another level of bass, IMO. One like this, it’s just so much box pressurizing that relatively tiny cab, and it usually makes the vehicle stronger, just depends on how it’s all done. I like the green and black. You definitely put quite a bit of work into this. Are you gonna have any videos of the wall playing?
I don't think this is one that makes the vehicle stronger. It's not a true wall that's built into the cage of the vehicle. It's really a box modeled to look like a wall I guess, if I had to describe it.
I did put a lot of work in. Thank you! I've learned a lot as well. Some things that work, some that don't. Above all, it's been fun!
Once it's all done, I'm going to buy a little SPL labs meter. Just to be curious. I'll post some videos of that. Maybe this weekend, if I get the chance to go for a ride, I'll take some videos as well. I put my hand on the inside of the windshield and it was bouncing my hand off. That was pretty cool!
The color scheme works. I will say that. We also are going to add a black light LED strip to the inside of the enclosure. My wife has a machine that can cut and print vinyl stickers (it does other sh*t too), so she made white vinyl Skar logo stickers for the motors, and she also made a big stencil of the motor that we used invisible ink on the back wall. At night, when he switches the black LED on, it'll all flow inside against an eerie green effect. Could look cool, could look cheesy. We'll see. I will post photos of that as well. Cheesy or not lol
 
Walls are another level of bass, IMO. One like this, it’s just so much box pressurizing that relatively tiny cab, and it usually makes the vehicle stronger, just depends on how it’s all done. I like the green and black. You definitely put quite a bit of work into this. Are you gonna have any videos of the wall playing?

B - pillar walls just turn SUV's into single cabs.
 
That's basically what happened. It was supposed to be a C- pillar build, but a screw up in measuring on my part made it not fit in the back, so out came the 2nd row! 🤣

Everybody gives me shitt because I have a standard cab build. They say that I have an advantage due to the small cabin. They fail to realize that I have no space for subs and amps. Wall builds have a shitt load of space for subs and amps.

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Every vehicle has their pros and cons. What it comes down to is if the vehicle isn't illegal to use in a comp, then you don't have any "advantage". At least that's my opinion.
 
They say that I have an advantage due to the small cabin.
The advantage that those vehicles have is if you are allowed to open a door or window during metering and this is true with behind the seat box, blowthrough or wall (in extended cab varieties). Hopefully you have tested and verified this for yourself.

On topic, I would think that acrylic window is not going to be thick enough to stay rigid and will be a weak link.
 
The advantage that those vehicles have is if you are allowed to open a door or window during metering and this is true with behind the seat box, blowthrough or wall (in extended cab varieties). Hopefully you have tested and verified this for yourself.

On topic, I would think that acrylic window is not going to be thick enough to stay rigid and will be a weak link.
It's ¾" thick. But you're right. It's holding up so far ok. It vibrates a little. I think I'm going to try and mock up a brace for it as well. I'll have to come up with something
 
You can bolt on a metal bar type brace from the center of the window front to back, and bolt it on and off like you have the seal.
I was planning on doing that with a ⅛" thick metal bar around the perimeter of the glass, so the bolts will be pushing on the bar instead of the plexy. You're saying also add a bar horizontal across the center of the plexy, one in front and one behind, for a brace? I just want to make sure I'm clear with your suggestion because that sounds like a pretty good idea of I'm picturing it right.
 
I was planning on doing that with a ⅛" thick metal bar around the perimeter of the glass, so the bolts will be pushing on the bar instead of the plexy. You're saying also add a bar horizontal across the center of the plexy, one in front and one behind, for a brace? I just want to make sure I'm clear with your suggestion because that sounds like a pretty good idea of I'm picturing it right.

A brace like a metal table leg with flanges on both ends that runs from the center of the window to the center of the back wall.
 
A brace like a metal table leg with flanges on both ends that runs from the center of the window to the center of the back wall.
Oh, I see, a metal brace running between the subs. Attached to the glass and the back wall. I've been looking for a reason to order one of those dope *ss braces from Scott Bowman lol
 
A brace like a metal table leg with flanges on both ends that runs from the center of the window to the center of the back wall.
Quick question, how much do you think it would change the internal volume and maybe the tuning or whatever if I had a custom brace made to go from the plexy to the back of the box like we've talked about, but also go from the baffle to the roof? To make a cross. I can have my welder at work fab something up. We're getting some pretty decent flex from the top of the enclosure is like to figure out a way to deal with. Ideally without having to dismantle the box of possible.
 
The advantage that those vehicles have is if you are allowed to open a door or window during metering and this is true with behind the seat box, blowthrough or wall (in extended cab varieties). Hopefully you have tested and verified this for yourself.

On topic, I would think that acrylic window is not going to be thick enough to stay rigid and will be a weak link.

In every competition that I've competed in people can leave the doors open or closed. In fact they can leave the windows open or closed. My friends single cab meters higher on the windshield then the kick. My next testing session will include metering on the dash. Advantage? Run what you brung. IDK if you stand on your head to het a higher meter score. Do what you have to to meter the highest. No port scores. Those are just dumb. I'm think of metering on 31 hz. music next time. I think it's louder on music.
 
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