2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[JeeperVol]

for a sealed box as long as the sub is firing to the rear you'll be fine.  Side firing inwards like your current JL sub less optimal and any other firing positioning will just render the sealed sub setup almost useless.

Thanks...is the Taramp and Dayton Audio sub easily compatible with my current bass knob hooked up to my jl audio 8"?  It's wired to a knob positioned by the driver seat near the emergency brake.   I really like having the ability to quickly adjust the knob to properly blend the bass for a song.

Lastly, I subscribe to Spotify to get clean music and the quality is 320 kbps with it on high quality setting.  What do you use for your music?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks...is the Taramp and Dayton Audio sub easily compatible with my current bass knob hooked up to my jl audio 8"?  It's wired to a knob positioned by the driver seat near the emergency brake.   I really like having the ability to quickly adjust the knob to properly blend the bass for a song.

Lastly, I subscribe to Spotify to get clean music and the quality is 320 kbps with it on high quality setting.  What do you use for your music?

If its a universal RCA bass knob its fine.  If its a cat5/cat6 telephone connector then it wont work. You can look up universal bass knobs, some actually have voltage readings on them as well which is convenient. 

I use spotify on on very high settings. high is only 256kbps  normal is around 192kbps.  Very high is 320kbps.  I'm on a family plan so its only 2.50 a month.  I also have an ongoing trial for tidal as well for sound quality demos, its a lossless streaming service. You really dont hear too much of a difference between 320kbps and the lossless though.

 

[JeeperVol]

If its a universal RCA bass knob its fine.  If its a cat5/cat6 telephone connector then it wont work. You can look up universal bass knobs, some actually have voltage readings on them as well which is convenient. 

I use spotify on on very high settings. high is only 256kbps  normal is around 192kbps.  Very high is 320kbps.  I'm on a family plan so its only 2.50 a month.  I also have an ongoing trial for tidal as well for sound quality demos, its a lossless streaming service. You really dont hear too much of a difference between 320kbps and the lossless though.

Thanks...I don't want to have to run another bass knob if possible.  I meant to say I use very high quality on spotify that is 320kpbs.

With the a mb Amazon box you recommended fir the Dayton 12", will I be able to use a speaker grill if I go with the 12"?  It looks a little tight and I want to protect the sub as I'm routinely throwing things in the trunk.  I prefer a stealthier approach and like a full grill like I have now and dont like the spaced out semi protective grill bars that some folks have.  Here's some pics without grill and with full grill.

I will take a pic of bass knob wire connection to hopefully determine what it is.

 

[JeeperVol]

If its a universal RCA bass knob its fine.  If its a cat5/cat6 telephone connector then it wont work. You can look up universal bass knobs, some actually have voltage readings on them as well which is convenient. 

I use spotify on on very high settings. high is only 256kbps  normal is around 192kbps.  Very high is 320kbps.  I'm on a family plan so its only 2.50 a month.  I also have an ongoing trial for tidal as well for sound quality demos, its a lossless streaming service. You really dont hear too much of a difference between 320kbps and the lossless though.

Here's my remote control hookup at the sub...looks like a telephone connector.  Could I cut telephone tip off it at the amp and splice in a universal RCA bass knob so it would work with the Taramp?  Or is there another brand amp other than JL Audio that would work with my current telephone style connection?   Would have to remove the dash and alot of panels to replace this knob.  Here's the link for it:

https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-RBC1-Remote-Control/dp/B000UVWFPM

 

[JeeperVol]

@THATpurpleKUSH Any chance you know the answer to my question in the previous post about using my current bass knob wit a Taramp sub or another non jl audio sub?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Here's my remote control hookup at the sub...looks like a telephone connector.  Could I cut telephone tip off it at the amp and splice in a universal RCA bass knob so it would work with the Taramp?  Or is there another brand amp other than JL Audio that would work with my current telephone style connection?   Would have to remove the dash and alot of panels to replace this knob.  Here's the link for it:

https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-RBC1-Remote-Control/dp/B000UVWFPM

View attachment 5658

telephone connectors are usually made for that exact model of amp only you cant use it for any other amp. You cant cut it off either. 

A universal bass knob with voltage meter. https://www.ctsounds.com/products/universal-bass-knob

 

[JeeperVol]

telephone connectors are usually made for that exact model of amp only you cant use it for any other amp. You cant cut it off either. 

A universal bass knob with voltage meter. https://www.ctsounds.com/products/universal-bass-knob

I found out my bass knob(RBC1) works with most jl audio amps.  I'm now looking at the jl audio jx1000 (1000 watt RMS at 2 OHM) to power the Dayton Audio 12" 315HO that you recommended.  I can get that amp for about $225.  Do you think that would pair well with the sub?

Is there a speaker grill to use with the Dayton and the Amazon B box you recommended?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I found out my bass knob(RBC1) works with most jl audio amps.  I'm now looking at the jl audio jx1000 (1000 watt RMS at 2 OHM) to power the Dayton Audio 12" 315HO that you recommended.  I can get that amp for about $225.  Do you think that would pair well with the sub?

Is there a speaker grill to use with the Dayton and the Amazon B box you recommended?

225 is actually not bad for that amp, it'll work fine. You can always resell the amp for close to the same amount you pay for it. the same site that sells the dayton has speaker grills on the site so you can choose, just navigate through the site or use the search function.

You'll eventually want 4 gauge though JL amps make power but are current hogs.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

@THATpurpleKUSH Any chance you know the answer to my question in the previous post about using my current bass knob wit a Taramp sub or another non jl audio sub?

Nope sorry, I don't use bass knobs.

 

[JeeperVol]

225 is actually not bad for that amp, it'll work fine. You can always resell the amp for close to the same amount you pay for it. the same site that sells the dayton has speaker grills on the site so you can choose, just navigate through the site or use the search function.

You'll eventually want 4 gauge though JL amps make power but are current hogs.

I talked with my friend who is a pretty big audiophile(loves Audison and JL) and I respect his opinion alot.  He cut to fit my current 5.25" components and installed my 4 channel amp and the jl fix86.  His thoughts were:

You're going to risk not sounding much better than the matched JL set you have.  Have you compared the woofer specs for your current sub to the Dayton?  The Dayton is a clean sub, but isn't very powerful.  It has a "short-throw" woofer, meaning the "excursion" or distance it travels is pretty short.  I really think you'll be disappointed, and I think you're beyond the point that saving a couple hundred dollars to cut corners wouldn't be worth it here.  The W6V3 paired with the 600W JL HD1 amp, would blow that Dayton and any amp you pair it with away.  Not even in the same ballpark. 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I talked with my friend who is a pretty big audiophile(loves Audison and JL) and I respect his opinion alot.  He cut to fit my current 5.25" components and installed my 4 channel amp and the jl fix86.  His thoughts were:

You're going to risk not sounding much better than the matched JL set you have.  Have you compared the woofer specs for your current sub to the Dayton?  The Dayton is a clean sub, but isn't very powerful.  It has a "short-throw" woofer, meaning the "excursion" or distance it travels is pretty short.  I really think you'll be disappointed, and I think you're beyond the point that saving a couple hundred dollars to cut corners wouldn't be worth it here.  The W6V3 paired with the 600W JL HD1 amp, would blow that Dayton and any amp you pair it with away.  Not even in the same ballpark. 

Sounds like a giant JL nut hugger there to say a dayton ho 10 on 1000 watts wont come close to a puny micro sub on 250 watts LOL. I've heard both the dayton and w6 many times and the JL is DEFINITELY NOT worth almost 5x the price of the dayton.  Funny how he only looked at the Xmax and literally nothing else thats important as well.  A 10w6 is 82.7 db sensitivity and the FS is 30hz with an xmax of 19mm.  A dayton ho 10 is 90.5 DB sensitivity and the FS is 27hz with an xmax of 13.25mm. The dayton will technically play deeper and the extra 7.8 db sensitivity(how loud the sub gets off of each watt of power you give it) negates whatever advantages the  6.75 mm of xmax the JL had over it, the output is going to be pretty dead even and from personal experience hearing both subs, they are pretty dead even in output, well I listed an SPL graph based on speak electromechanical parameters (hard numbers that literally tells you what the speaker does based on its overall design and engineering Not sure if your "audiophile" buddy knows anything about this lmao) with 600 watts put to each, the w10 is yellow and the dayton is purple so you can see the difference.  Also by his logic For the same money I can get a sub with 36mm of Xmax plus an amp for the same price of a W6 that will absolute blow it away displacement wise. however Xmax is not the only thing you pay attention to when choosing a sub.

When you look at the electromechanical parameters. Both their Efficiency Bandwidth Product values are 55.2 with the dayton HO Dual voice coil 10  and 55.5 with the w6 literally dead even in terms of sealed/ported configuration flexibility and optimum enclosure size When you graph it out on WINISD (program that projects frequency response along with possible starting SPL/group delay(how accurate your sub will be) and excursion at specific frequencies, they literally are almost identical in frequency response.   

I dont blame your friend, When i was still sorta fresh in car audio i was a JL audio nut hugger too. However I've discovered real sound quality over the years and real spl as well through competitions on both sides and the "throwing money at it" approach is the last approach i'd ever do again.

Also a basic install of a 4 channel amp and 5.25 speakers with mdf adapters and a braindead LOC with factory de-equalization doesnt make you an audiophile.   When he Analyzes the acoustics of your car down to the shape of the dash, distance from the roof, possible glass reflections and down to the seat fabrics then chooses drivers to match your vehicle acoustics perfection then does some  fiberglassed A pillar mids and tweets with dedicated midbass either in the doors or kicks with a 6 channel amp with ideal crossover points, and slopes to have all drivers blend perfectly together on a full blown 8 channel processor fully tuned EQ with a Real time Analyzer, time aligned and phase corrected to where you have perfect wide sound staging at eye level, precise imaging and tonality along with creating a perfect sound quality box like either a 1/4 wave transmission line or Infinite baffle setup for perfect subwoofer response based on the sub's parameters and the vehicle acoustics is when someone is a real audiophile.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

here's another graph on group delay(when the bass note starts and stops at the proper timing) which is to measure the overall  tightness accuracy of the sub, lower is better in this case. At the lower frequencies, the dayton is more accurate at lower frequencies all around up to 35hz. 

 

[JeeperVol]

here's another graph on group delay(when the bass note starts and stops at the proper timing) which is to measure the overall  tightness accuracy of the sub, lower is better in this case. At the lower frequencies, the dayton is more accurate at lower frequencies all around up to 35hz. 

View attachment 5664

Great info...thank you very much.  I'm kinda surprised to read that the $150 10" dayton sounds as good and hits as hard as the $500 10" w6v3.  My friend has a much more advanced setup than mine.  With a budget of $500 and going for quality SQ with space constraints,  would you stick with the dayton ho 12" in a sealed box and the jl jx1000 amp?  I am about to list my current sub on ebay.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

JL you pay for the name along with they design stuff in house they aren’t a cookie cutter brand. They also have a lot of employees that are paid well with benefits. All of this is passed on to the consumer. 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

They actually have a pension plan for employees at JL audio so literally you are paying 5x the price for their pension.