2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks...do you know where I can get a economical sealed box and what amp do you recommend?

https://www.amazon.com/E12S-Single-Carpeted-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sealed+box+12&qid=1559767007&s=gateway&sr=8-3

should be .75 after accounting in sub displacement. close to a qtc .707 which is ideal for the sub based on modeling graphs on my sub enclosure program.

at 2 ohms this amp should be enough for the dayton.

https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-GM-D9701-2400W-Class-D-Remote/dp/B07N8J5JQY

You can also get this amp too for similar money which does a lot more power. (dyno tested for true rms) you dont have to use all the watts its capable of, just enough watts to get the output you need and right at the point where your electrical system can still handle it fine. You can do all this via the gain settings on the amp. What this does is it keeps the amp from redlining which is more harmful to the sub due to a clipped signal. Having a lot of headroom power makes sure the amp always operates cool and reliability and longevity of your amp and sub is better along with having good efficiency electrical wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Taramp-HD3000-1-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGULS78/ref=asc_df_B00FGULS78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312025993668&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14811677794118569035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031569&hvtargid=pla-536083829686&psc=1

You'll eventually want to upgrade your 8 gauge kit to a 4 gauge kit if you want more power out of your setup. With the 8 gauge kit all its going to do is limit power your amp produces.

 

[JeeperVol]

https://www.amazon.com/E12S-Single-Carpeted-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sealed+box+12&qid=1559767007&s=gateway&sr=8-3

should be .75 after accounting in sub displacement. close to a qtc .707 which is ideal for the sub based on modeling graphs on my sub enclosure program.

at 2 ohms this amp should be enough for the dayton.

https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-GM-D9701-2400W-Class-D-Remote/dp/B07N8J5JQY

You can also get this amp too for similar money which does a lot more power. (dyno tested for true rms) you dont have to use all the watts its capable of, just enough watts to get the output you need and right at the point where your electrical system can still handle it fine. You can do all this via the gain settings on the amp. What this does is it keeps the amp from redlining which is more harmful to the sub due to a clipped signal. Having a lot of headroom power makes sure the amp always operates cool and reliability and longevity of your amp and sub is better along with having good efficiency electrical wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Taramp-HD3000-1-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGULS78/ref=asc_df_B00FGULS78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312025993668&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14811677794118569035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031569&hvtargid=pla-536083829686&psc=1

You'll eventually want to upgrade your 8 gauge kit to a 4 gauge kit if you want more power out of your setup. With the 8 gauge kit all its going to do is limit power your amp produces.

That amp is nuts...a little overkill for my SQ preferred sound.  I checked and the box link you sent is too big to fit in my trunk area and be able to open the rear compartment area.  I can fit a shallow rectangle box 18" wide wide by 13" tall x 6" deep.  Or a square box that is 12" wide x 12" tall × 10" deep

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That amp is nuts...a little overkill for my SQ preferred sound.  I checked and the box link you sent is too big to fit in my trunk area and be able to open the rear compartment area.  I can fit a shallow rectangle box 18" wide wide by 13" tall x 6" deep.  Or a square box that is 12" wide x 12" tall × 10" deep

you'll need to build the box yourself then. Its not hard. have home depot make all the cuts, take it home, screw and glue. borrow a jigsaw and cut the circle then paint or carpet, voila less than 20 bucks of supplies and its perfectly custom fit.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

MDF is the cheapest, $30 a 4' x 8' sheet or around $10 for a 2' x 4' panel. Need two or three depending on dimensions. 

screws, glue, caulk, at least $12

drill bits? t-square? 

More than $20

 

[JeeperVol]

MDF is the cheapest, $30 a 4' x 8' sheet or around $10 for a 2' x 4' panel. Need two or three depending on dimensions. 

screws, glue, caulk, at least $12

drill bits? t-square? 

More than $20

Yeah...sounds much easier to buy a box pre made....I'm going to keep looking for a box.  Lastly, I want to fill in 3 screw holes in the mdf on my current JL Audio ACP108 and sell it on ebay to help pay for everything.  Should I use bondo and lightly sand it?

 

[JeeperVol]

you'll need to build the box yourself then. Its not hard. have home depot make all the cuts, take it home, screw and glue. borrow a jigsaw and cut the circle then paint or carpet, voila less than 20 bucks of supplies and its perfectly custom fit.

Ii want to also ask you this....I want to fill in 3 screw holes in the mdf on my current JL Audio ACP108 and sell it on ebay to help pay for everything.  Should I use bondo and lightly sand it?  Hopefully, I can get $300 for it bc it's only 6 months old.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

there's wood filler or use sawdust and wood glue.

 

[JeeperVol]

https://www.amazon.com/E12S-Single-Carpeted-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sealed+box+12&qid=1559767007&s=gateway&sr=8-3

should be .75 after accounting in sub displacement. close to a qtc .707 which is ideal for the sub based on modeling graphs on my sub enclosure program.

at 2 ohms this amp should be enough for the dayton.

https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-GM-D9701-2400W-Class-D-Remote/dp/B07N8J5JQY

You can also get this amp too for similar money which does a lot more power. (dyno tested for true rms) you dont have to use all the watts its capable of, just enough watts to get the output you need and right at the point where your electrical system can still handle it fine. You can do all this via the gain settings on the amp. What this does is it keeps the amp from redlining which is more harmful to the sub due to a clipped signal. Having a lot of headroom power makes sure the amp always operates cool and reliability and longevity of your amp and sub is better along with having good efficiency electrical wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Taramp-HD3000-1-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGULS78/ref=asc_df_B00FGULS78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312025993668&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14811677794118569035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031569&hvtargid=pla-536083829686&psc=1

You'll eventually want to upgrade your 8 gauge kit to a 4 gauge kit if you want more power out of your setup. With the 8 gauge kit all its going to do is limit power your amp produces.

How much would my 8 gauge power wire limit performance with the Pioneer vs the Taramp 3000watt?  My goal is for good SQ and not to annoy my neighbors.  Thanks!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

How much would my 8 gauge power wire limit performance with the Pioneer vs the Taramp 3000watt?  My goal is for good SQ and not to annoy my neighbors.  Thanks!

I know your main focus is sound quality otherwise i wouldn't even recommend the dayton or a sealed box in the first place. You can always turn it down so it blends with your midbass drivers with no issues via gain or sub control settings, its better to have headroom and get what you need vs not having enough and always having to change your setup.   It seems like a big power rating but power is what brings sound quality because you need cone control and low distortion to get tight accurate bass vs sloppy distorted bass from a weak amp. There's a reason world class sound quality cars literally have 750 watts going to each door speaker and several thousand going to the subs but they arent listening to loud levels. 

You can pay more money for a weaker amp thats all on you, i'm just giving you choices on whats the best deal right now out there. Literally why pay the same money for an amp thats half as capable? 

 

[JeeperVol]

I know your main focus is sound quality otherwise i wouldn't even recommend the dayton or a sealed box in the first place. You can always turn it down so it blends with your midbass drivers with no issues via gain or sub control settings, its better to have headroom and get what you need vs not having enough and always having to change your setup.   It seems like a big power rating but power is what brings sound quality because you need cone control and low distortion to get tight accurate bass vs sloppy distorted bass from a weak amp. There's a reason world class sound quality cars literally have 750 watts going to each door speaker and several thousand going to the subs but they arent listening to loud levels. 

You can pay more money for a weaker amp thats all on you, i'm just giving you choices on whats the best deal right now out there. Literally why pay the same money for an amp thats half as capable? 

Thanks again...I was reading reviews on the 3000 watt Taramp that you recommended and a few folks said it was more of a SQL amp and not focused on SQ.  Thoughts?   I dont want to dim the headlights or buy another battery...am I ok with this amp with 4 gauge wire powering it?

Secondly, would the Dayton Audio 12" HO that you recommended in a sealed box powered by that 3000 watt Taramp with 4 gauge power sound remotely comparable to the JL Audio 10" w6 in the same setup?  I have a friend with a jl 10" w7 and he was pitching me to go with jl and I'm trying to figure out if you're paying a lot more for jl based on the brand name vs. actually getting that much better sound?  

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks again...I was reading reviews on the 3000 watt Taramp that you recommended and a few folks said it was more of a SQL amp and not focused on SQ.  Thoughts?   I dont want to dim the headlights or buy another battery...am I ok with this amp with 4 gauge wire powering it?

Secondly, would the Dayton Audio 12" HO that you recommended in a sealed box powered by that 3000 watt Taramp with 4 gauge power sound remotely comparable to the JL Audio 10" w6 in the same setup?  I have a friend with a jl 10" w7 and he was pitching me to go with jl and I'm trying to figure out if you're paying a lot more for jl based on the brand name vs. actually getting that much better sound?  

Amps have the least impact on sound quality as long as they are all within clean operating limits under low THD. Buying a class D subwoofer amp built for "SQ" is literally borderline snake oil. The enclosure design, how it works well with the subwoofer along with the, vehicle acoustics and signal processing/eq/signal strength all matter way more than a sticker on an amp labeled for SQ.   Hell an extreme spl sub with extreme SPL placed highly in a national SQ competition and got the flattest frequency response with tight bass just to show you how insignificant their point is.  The proof in the attachments.   

no, JL is overpriced, all you are pay for is the name brand. There's plenty of subs half the price of a W7 that will absolutely murder it and piss on its grave. The dayton I recommended is basically W6 performance for waaaaay cheaper. The TS parameters and enclosure specs are very similar.  A 10 w7 right now costs 200-250 on craigslist which is closer to what the sub's performance should cost. In the price range of the W7.   

 

[JeeperVol]

Amps have the least impact on sound quality as long as they are all within clean operating limits under low THD. Buying a class D subwoofer amp built for "SQ" is literally borderline snake oil. The enclosure design, how it works well with the subwoofer along with the, vehicle acoustics and signal processing/eq/signal strength all matter way more than a sticker on an amp labeled for SQ.   Hell an extreme spl sub with extreme SPL placed highly in a national SQ competition and got the flattest frequency response with tight bass just to show you how insignificant their point is.  The proof in the attachments.   

no, JL is overpriced, all you are pay for is the name brand. There's plenty of subs half the price of a W7 that will absolutely murder it and piss on its grave. The dayton I recommended is basically W6 performance for waaaaay cheaper. The TS parameters and enclosure specs are very similar.  A 10 w7 right now costs 200-250 on craigslist which is closer to what the sub's performance should cost. In the price range of the W7.   

View attachment 5648

View attachment 5650

View attachment 5651

Thanks....great info.  I saw that Taramps also offers a 2 ohm version of the 1 ohm amp you sent me and it's $10 more.  Any advantage to going with the 2 ohm amp?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks....great info.  I saw that Taramps also offers a 2 ohm version of the 1 ohm amp you sent me and it's $10 more.  Any advantage to going with the 2 ohm amp?

its just more power at a higher ohm load but you cant wire down low to 1 ohm which is the trade off.  

not that you'll ever reach the clipping point of the amp but there is a clipping indicator on the amp to tell you when you are over driving the signal and making dirty power as well.  I'd recommend installing something like a stinger voltmeter so you can monitor your vehicle voltages. (I recommend this with every build no matter how big or small) It can also let you know when your battery or alternator is going bad.  You'll just want to turn up the amp gain till you get the appropriate amount of output you need and make sure your voltages arent dropping below 12..5 all the times, maybe at heavy peaks in bass heavy music.  If its dropping below 12.0, lower the amp gain.

however with 8 gauge wire, you wont really pull that much current at all, your wire is already naturally restricting power flow so the amp wont be making anywhere as much as you think it is unless you upgrade the wire which i doubt you'll need since output is not a main concern. 

You'll definitely will need to go down to a dayton 10 with your space requirements...

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

but finding a 12x 12 x 10  sized prefab is hard... the best I found was this which is 13.5 x 13.5 x 10.5 https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RS10B-Single-Bedlined-Enclosure/dp/B07G3Q9L3C/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=10+inch+sealed+box&qid=1559913285&s=gateway&sr=8-25

if you want even deeper bass, you can get some poly fill and stuff the fk out of that box.

 

[JeeperVol]

its just more power at a higher ohm load but you cant wire down low to 1 ohm which is the trade off.  

not that you'll ever reach the clipping point of the amp but there is a clipping indicator on the amp to tell you when you are over driving the signal and making dirty power as well.  I'd recommend installing something like a stinger voltmeter so you can monitor your vehicle voltages. (I recommend this with every build no matter how big or small) It can also let you know when your battery or alternator is going bad.  You'll just want to turn up the amp gain till you get the appropriate amount of output you need and make sure your voltages arent dropping below 12..5 all the times, maybe at heavy peaks in bass heavy music.  If its dropping below 12.0, lower the amp gain.

however with 8 gauge wire, you wont really pull that much current at all, your wire is already naturally restricting power flow so the amp wont be making anywhere as much as you think it is unless you upgrade the wire which i doubt you'll need since output is not a main concern. 

You'll definitely will need to go down to a dayton 10 with your space requirements...

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

but finding a 12x 12 x 10  sized prefab is hard... the best I found was this which is 13.5 x 13.5 x 10.5 https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RS10B-Single-Bedlined-Enclosure/dp/B07G3Q9L3C/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=10+inch+sealed+box&qid=1559913285&s=gateway&sr=8-25

if you want even deeper bass, you can get some poly fill and stuff the fk out of that box.

Great info...so the 8 gauge wire will provide enough power?   Is it worth going to 4 gauge?  How much?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Great info...so the 8 gauge wire will provide enough power?   Is it worth going to 4 gauge?  How much?

I'd say go for it if you want it louder other wise as long as you arent full tilting it, you'll be fine.