2 way front stage ?

[marc2112 10+ year member]

I could possible do a 1 inch MDF spacer on the 6x9 and hack it off with my miter saw at around a 15 degree angle and fire them a little upwards. Is that something worth doing?

Not in my experience. 6x9s off axis can have surprisingly good imaging.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

The sensitivity mismatch is a big problem. Your 6x9s are designed to be subwoofers first, midbass woofers second. This goes hand-in-hand with sensitivity. This can't be solved with clever engineering and still make it appropriate to fit car doors.

You will have a much easier time level matching with a pair of the CDT 2" full range speakers. The #1 consequence is the overall maximum linear SPL capability(how loud it all plays cleanly) has to drop.

Get different woofers.

 

[djdilliodon!]

The 6x9’s gotta go, while sound is purely subjective, a 6x9 just isn’t ideal for mid duty. I’d make a set of baffles and get a 6.5” in the door instead. The choices are endless once you can go 6.5”. It will then come down to budget and power available to help narrow down the choices.

 

[SlugButter]

The 6x9’s gotta go, while sound is purely subjective, a 6x9 just isn’t ideal for mid duty. I’d make a set of baffles and get a 6.5” in the door instead. The choices are endless once you can go 6.5”. It will then come down to budget and power available to help narrow down the choices.

I’m doing the morel 6 inch I think. A lot of 6.5s won’t actually fit because of the way the door is designed. It is a recessed panel, and anything with an outside diameter of more than 6.3 inches will not fit. Even adapter rings for 6x9s have to be shaved down to fit. It limits the options, but morel has a very nice 6 inch that I really like. Their titanium series is 6.3 outside diameter, 150 watt 4 ohm coil. My current amp won’t work very well, which is fine, I hate it. Probably going to get a larger 2 channel for the mids and a smaller 2 channel for the tweeters. I’m running active on a DSP. No passive crossovers.

 

[SlugButter]

The CDT 6x9s do pretty well from 70-1800 HZ, maybe 2000. They wouldn’t be too bad in a 3 way front stage playing from 70-1000 HZ or so.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I’m doing the morel 6 inch I think. A lot of 6.5s won’t actually fit because of the way the door is designed. It is a recessed panel, and anything with an outside diameter of more than 6.3 inches will not fit. Even adapter rings for 6x9s have to be shaved down to fit. It limits the options, but morel has a very nice 6 inch that I really like. Their titanium series is 6.3 outside diameter, 150 watt 4 ohm coil. My current amp won’t work very well, which is fine, I hate it. Probably going to get a larger 2 channel for the mids and a smaller 2 channel for the tweeters. I’m running active on a DSP. No passive crossovers.

morel makes nice drivers, absolutely a quality product. As always sound is subject and we don’t always have the luxury to listen before making a purchase. IMO, this is the fun part, the hunt buying and trying things out. It can get expensive but meh I love it lol. You can always go with a powerful 4 channel and tune it all to blend. My setup is all run active using an oversized 6.5” (these are made for my brand) and 1” tweeters (also made for my brand). It was easy getting it all balanced but these mids are very beefy. I had to do some work to get them to fit and then had to do work to get them to have the midbass output I wanted. These little guys have 12mm of xmax and I was cruising around with them crossed at 30hz high passed with a low pass cut at 3500hz. After some more door work I got the output pretty solid in the bass department. Sounded like I had a little sub in the back lol. I’m gonna build custom panels soon and go with dual drivers per side sealed. I can never just leave well enough alone hehe

 

[SlugButter]

What I’d really

morel makes nice drivers, absolutely a quality product. As always sound is subject and we don’t always have the luxury to listen before making a purchase. IMO, this is the fun part, the hunt buying and trying things out. It can get expensive but meh I love it lol. You can always go with a powerful 4 channel and tune it all to blend. My setup is all run active using an oversized 6.5” (these are made for my brand) and 1” tweeters (also made for my brand). It was easy getting it all balanced but these mids are very beefy. I had to do some work to get them to fit and then had to do work to get them to have the midbass output I wanted. These little guys have 12mm of xmax and I was cruising around with them crossed at 30hz high passed with a low pass cut at 3500hz. After some more door work I got the output pretty solid in the bass department. Sounded like I had a little sub in the back lol. I’m gonna build custom panels soon and go with dual drivers per side sealed. I can never just leave well enough alone hehe

What I’d really like to do is use make a fiberglass pod and use dual 6.5s. I have about .5 cubes of usable space in that panel cavity if I bring the speakers out on the front panel and do some light modifying on the panel. Deadening the door helped a lot all by itself. An actual sealed pod would be really nice I think. I already spent 1500$ on audio, so I’m going to have to wait just a little while now to slip it past my wife again. Lol

 

[djdilliodon!]

What I’d really
What I’d really like to do is use make a fiberglass pod and use dual 6.5s. I have about .5 cubes of usable space in that panel cavity if I bring the speakers out on the front panel and do some light modifying on the panel. Deadening the door helped a lot all by itself. An actual sealed pod would be really nice I think. I already spent 1500$ on audio, so I’m going to have to wait just a little while now to slip it past my wife again. Lol

depending on the cars door panels, it may be much cheaper and easier than you think to do custom door panels. In my car I’m able to cut off the bottom part of the panel, use mdf cut to size, then build off of that instead of doing an entire custom panel. If you are good with working with your hands you would be amazed how easy it is. The hardest IMO is if you are trying to achieve a finish perfect enough to paint. Me I always take the easy way out and just carpet it lol. With .5 cubic feet available, most drivers in the 6.5”-7” size only need just .2 sealed to perform. IMO you have the perfect volume for a dual setup. Mine are currently IB and the drivers really do have a low qts but still have managed to get them to perform well infinite baffle. I know once in an enclosure they will definitely wake up, especially two per side. Let a little time pass and just start buying the material and when questioned, just say listen, I didn’t want this! I don’t want to even do this! I actually hate this! Problem is I need this and had no choice lmao! Works for me most of the time lol.

 

[SlugButter]

depending on the cars door panels, it may be much cheaper and easier than you think to do custom door panels. In my car I’m able to cut off the bottom part of the panel, use mdf cut to size, then build off of that instead of doing an entire custom panel. If you are good with working with your hands you would be amazed how easy it is. The hardest IMO is if you are trying to achieve a finish perfect enough to paint. Me I always take the easy way out and just carpet it lol. With .5 cubic feet available, most drivers in the 6.5”-7” size only need just .2 sealed to perform. IMO you have the perfect volume for a dual setup. Mine are currently IB and the drivers really do have a low qts but still have managed to get them to perform well infinite baffle. I know once in an enclosure they will definitely wake up, especially two per side. Let a little time pass and just start buying the material and when questioned, just say listen, I didn’t want this! I don’t want to even do this! I actually hate this! Problem is I need this and had no choice lmao! Works for me most of the time lol.

I just used the safety argument to buy a new battery, new wiring and fused distribution block. It could start a fire after all. I’m trying to figure out how getting a new head unit could tie into safety also but I’m coming up empty.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I just used the safety argument to buy a new battery, new wiring and fused distribution block. It could start a fire after all. I’m trying to figure out how getting a new head unit could tie into safety also but I’m coming up empty.

thats easy! Say the factory radio is starting to act up and since it’s tied in with the ecu, if it fully fails the car won’t start! Say if I get the new radio with the ecu integration adaptor, I can totally avoid this! Say you don’t want me getting stranded out on the road one day do you?

 

[SlugButter]

thats easy! Say the factory radio is starting to act up and since it’s tied in with the ecu, if it fully fails the car won’t start! Say if I get the new radio with the ecu integration adaptor, I can totally avoid this! Say you don’t want me getting stranded out on the road one day do you?

Man. I wish. I already bought one and installed it, and I don’t like it. I thought the DSP would let me raise the preout voltage, but it doesn’t. The head unit has 2 volt preouts and that is what the DSP limits it to. I might give it to my brother for Christmas and get into a new one that route. It would be greedy of me not to give this head unit to him for Christmas.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Man. I wish. I already bought one and installed it, and I don’t like it. I thought the DSP would let me raise the preout voltage, but it doesn’t. The head unit has 2 volt preouts and that is what the DSP limits it to. I might give it to my brother for Christmas and get into a new one that route. It would be greedy of me not to give this head unit to him for Christmas.

its already his HU no matter if he knows it or not lol. You could technically keep it and go with an active xover, That’s what I always do.