2 15" NSv3s In place of rear seat of a Audi a4 sedan, port style and orientation?

[DFS722]

Looking to make a ported semi temporary box as stated in the title. Subs will be up and inverted but anyone have recommendations/input or experience on port/s for a setup such as this? Current set up is louder port back into trunk however I want to seal trunk from cabin. I am doing this because I have the subs laying around and the single 18" (FI soft parts and wide mouth TI frame on a Zv3 motor, FiDo) just isn't cutting it on a twisted 3.5k, I need my trunk and don't have 2 friends so no back seat needed lol. Not exactly a common seen setup location actually I have not seen any examples. if i seal off the trunk from cabin I'd think unloading into that makes the most logical sense.

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[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Depends on your goals. My first thought is subs up, port to the passenger side

 

[DFS722]

I always port pass side if I side port. Its for me, not numbers. Demos at meets of course but that's a whole lot of port to the side I thought. What style port do you recommend?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Subs up port through rear deck

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Subs up port through rear deck

No

 

[DFS722]

Subs up port through rear deck

think you read that backwards, I am sealing the cabin from the trunk BUT the subs will be in place of the rear seat.

I will be building a 6th order rear deck blow thru in my crown vic for these but want to have fun while i finish that car this winter.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

You can still seal the cabin. Just a thought, having the port pressurizing between the rear deck and window would work well. I’ve done a design like this before.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I’ll have to get the design off my PC if you want to see it, but I can show you the design that I mean. You can still seal it while firing the Oort through the rear deck. The port still fires into the cabin, not into the trunk.

 

[DFS722]

I’ll have to get the design off my PC if you want to see it, but I can show you the design that I mean. You can still seal it while firing the Oort through the rear deck. The port still fires into the cabin, not into the trunk.

Oh I am picking up what you're throwing down, You're saying run the port into the trunk and up thru rear deck. Similar to what I was thinking now. I was thinking slot port, 1 common wall being the back of the box angled up unloading into the rear glass but not intruding into the trunk but instead riding up the back of the rear seats plane. only I am unsure of how to do the port, I was thinking like a horn as it will be wider at the top or not be a common wall and have it strictly external and all the same width. then mount the amps on either side of the port on the seat delete board.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Oh I am picking up what you're throwing down, You're saying run the port into the trunk and up thru rear deck. Similar to what I was thinking now. I was thinking slot port, 1 common wall being the back of the box angled up unloading into the rear glass but not intruding into the trunk but instead riding up the back of the rear seats plane. only I am unsure of how to do the port, I was thinking like a horn as it will be wider at the top or not be a common wall and have it strictly external and all the same width. then mount the amps on either side of the port on the seat delete board.

This one was for 2 DD 715's. It never got built because the owner changed his mind about what he wanted to do. I really wanted to see this one playing.

^^^In that box, the whole top of the box is about level with the top of the rear deck (he was going to add a flush mount extra top baffle that conformed to the doors). The port was detachable/made as a separated piece, and he was going to make a mount to secure the port on the bottom of the rear deck. This port came out basically in the center of the rear deck, iirc.

It stinks customer never built this; he did and I did a TON of measuring and back and forth to get this layout, and it's very specific. Oh well. It was fun to design and challenging.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

A box like that acts better than just a ported box. Using the rear deck/window shape, along with using the baffle of the sub box and the roof, this type of enclosure should pressurize the cabin very well. You could even fire the subs forward, and do some horn math; it would be loose horn math, unless you made a wall. It's all about how much work you want to put into it. The same style box can be done different ways in order to try and achieve different effects. I'd run the subs up and pressurize all of the port and sub air in between the roof and the top of the box, that'll be great loading.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Oh I am picking up what you're throwing down, You're saying run the port into the trunk and up thru rear deck. Similar to what I was thinking now. I was thinking slot port, 1 common wall being the back of the box angled up unloading into the rear glass but not intruding into the trunk but instead riding up the back of the rear seats plane. only I am unsure of how to do the port, I was thinking like a horn as it will be wider at the top or not be a common wall and have it strictly external and all the same width. then mount the amps on either side of the port on the seat delete board.

I would totally make the port go through the center of the back seats into the front of the trunk, then have the port turn upwards and connect the port to the rear deck, and that'll also strengthen the rear deck. You want that port as squeezed under that rear window as possible, as long as it's not too close to the glass towards the rear. You may have to adjust port dimensions to make the port either more fat/squared vs wide and skinny. It's all about how close the glass is to the deck and how deep and wide the deck is.

Let me know if you need help with a design for this!

 

[DFS722]

I would totally make the port go through the center of the back seats into the front of the trunk, then have the port turn upwards and connect the port to the rear deck, and that'll also strengthen the rear deck. You want that port as squeezed under that rear window as possible, as long as it's not too close to the glass towards the rear. You may have to adjust port dimensions to make the port either more fat/squared vs wide and skinny. It's all about how close the glass is to the deck and how deep and wide the deck is.

Let me know if you need help with a design for this!

Apparently my response did not send the other day and is now gone.

I like your renderings, this is not going to be a vehicle I am putting a lot into. My crown vic is the car the NSv3s are going to call home where I will be going all out (rear deck blow thru 6th order is the plan for that) but winter the car sits however I am tired of the subs just sitting so in the daily they go for now.

I have a bottom slot ported box for 2 15s that I converted to a single 18 now converted to a single 15 and put 1 of the NSv3s in saturday for a meet. the dual 15 box for the car will be coming soon. with these subs even my extremely crude bastardized box is getting down, pretty sure with 2 of them on 2 5ks will be more than plenty and then some with the level I will take this car. I will need to play with the port but I am going to plan on doing the port up with subs inverted. I will make the port able to be removeable as well, do a gasket with screws then I can change and play with it to see what sounds best, as well as be able to easily remove the enclosure. I really never worked with wood up until last year and just jumped in. so I am a novice to say the least on what works and don't. I am unsure if slanting the port to unload on the back window with the subs loading on the roof will cause issues or "turbulence" with the wave crashing into each other? Or is it subs and port if facing the same direction need to be on the same plane?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Apparently my response did not send the other day and is now gone.

I like your renderings, this is not going to be a vehicle I am putting a lot into. My crown vic is the car the NSv3s are going to call home where I will be going all out (rear deck blow thru 6th order is the plan for that) but winter the car sits however I am tired of the subs just sitting so in the daily they go for now.

I have a bottom slot ported box for 2 15s that I converted to a single 18 now converted to a single 15 and put 1 of the NSv3s in saturday for a meet. the dual 15 box for the car will be coming soon. with these subs even my extremely crude bastardized box is getting down, pretty sure with 2 of them on 2 5ks will be more than plenty and then some with the level I will take this car. I will need to play with the port but I am going to plan on doing the port up with subs inverted. I will make the port able to be removeable as well, do a gasket with screws then I can change and play with it to see what sounds best, as well as be able to easily remove the enclosure. I really never worked with wood up until last year and just jumped in. so I am a novice to say the least on what works and don't. I am unsure if slanting the port to unload on the back window with the subs loading on the roof will cause issues or "turbulence" with the wave crashing into each other? Or is it subs and port if facing the same direction need to be on the same plane?

It's more like pressure and less like flow. I would just run the port at 90 degrees. You can put subs and ports incredibly close to hard walls, in many cases. Just make sure your port isn't too close to the rear windsheild, just depends on how big the port is.