What’s your go to place online

I see audio control LOCs are same price wherever you go. I assume that’s set by manufacturer.
Thank y’all for your go to places. About the only place I knew of is online car audio.
 
I see audio control LOCs are same price wherever you go. I assume that’s set by manufacturer.
Thank y’all for your go to places. About the only place I knew of is online car audio.

Most manufacturers have map pricing but big brands set map pricing high to maximize their dealers profit. It's what keeps things fair instead of a race to zero for dealers. Horrible for the customer but pretty much essential for the dealers
 
Most manufacturers have map pricing but big brands set map pricing high to maximize their dealers profit. It's what keeps things fair instead of a race to zero for dealers. Horrible for the customer but pretty much essential for the dealers
I’m looking at the audio control lc2i or lc2i pro. I think they’re called. I’m just adding subs and amp right now. I’m thinking 2 8s maybe 2-10s. Thinking of 200ish rms on subs. Using the stock head unit and door speakers. Least for now. I’ve seen Skar 8”. Seem pretty inexpensive. Dunno the quality.
 
I’m looking at the audio control lc2i or lc2i pro. I think they’re called. I’m just adding subs and amp right now. I’m thinking 2 8s maybe 2-10s. Thinking of 200ish rms on subs. Using the stock head unit and door speakers. Least for now. I’ve seen Skar 8”. Seem pretty inexpensive. Dunno the quality.
Would you consider running a single 10 of 600 rms?
 
For as Cheap as these are to buy.. These subs get down for the money. Pick up a CT Sounds 700.1 or for $20 bucks more grabb the 1000.1 , 4 ga OFC wire kit . Go to GP Audio and look for a Glue and Screw enclosure kit. Be set!





 
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I’m thinking of keeping the rms lower. As to not drown out the mids and highs that use the factory wattage.
If I’m wrong in my thinking. Let’s talk about it. Let me know where I’m wrong
 
I’m thinking of keeping the rms lower. As to not drown out the mids and highs that use the factory wattage.
If I’m wrong in my thinking. Let’s talk about it. Let me know where I’m wrong
You can do a single 10 A.Bass XO sub and run @2 ohms final impedance on the 700.1 and get a Glue and Screw ported enclosure and the 4 ga amp kit. I have a pair of those subs, and they sound really nice for what they are. Is the enclosure going in the trunk?Or a Hatchback or cabin area? What vehicle?
 
I’m thinking of keeping the rms lower. As to not drown out the mids and highs that use the factory wattage.
If I’m wrong in my thinking. Let’s talk about it. Let me know where I’m wrong
You are getting alot for your money with this sub for the price. You dont have to run it @Full Tilt on tuning it. With Head room you will not be working the amp or sub that hard if you use 50% or less gain and if you need or want a little more? You have the option to turn it up a bit. You can wire the DVC 2 ohm CT Sounds sub for ($99) to a 4 ohm load as well rather than a 1 ohm load. The amp is stable from 4,2,and 1 ohm loads

 
You can do a single 10 A.Bass XO sub and run @2 ohms final impedance on the 700.1 and get a Glue and Screw ported enclosure and the 4 ga amp kit. I have a pair of those subs, and they sound really nice for what they are. Is the enclosure going in the trunk?Or a Hatchback or cabin area? What vehicle?

It is going in the trunk of a 2015 Passat. Keeping stock head unit and door speakers. Adding LOC, amp, subs.
 
You are getting alot for your money with this sub for the price. You dont have to run it @Full Tilt on tuning it. With Head room you will not be working the amp or sub that hard if you use 50% or less gain and if you need or want a little more? You have the option to turn it up a bit. You can wire the DVC 2 ohm CT Sounds sub for ($99) to a 4 ohm load as well rather than a 1 ohm load. The amp is stable from 4,2,and 1 ohm loads


Thanks for the link on wiring. That’s very helpful.
I am unfamiliar with A. Bass products. Something I need to look into. I’m more used to names like Fosgate, JL audio, Kicker. I’m old school. Just getting back into car audio.
 
Thanks for the link on wiring. That’s very helpful.
I am unfamiliar with A. Bass products. Something I need to look into. I’m more used to names like Fosgate, JL audio, Kicker. I’m old school. Just getting back into car audio.
Im about Ols School as you can get on this site..LOL I still Run Old Zed amps usually where I can. Better can be had than these 3 older brands for the Money these days. I Like to Run A,Bass Subs in most of my vehicles. Ill swapp from time to time. Sound Qubeds, Old AudioTechnix/CT Sounds now, Dayton Classis, HO, Ult max. NVX,SSA, DC Level 3,PSI Plat.2&3, SSA Icon, and few others. Id run that CT sub for the money and amp in the trunk space ported approx 32-35 htz if it were my car. Wire to 4 ohms see if you like that. Need more at the sub stage then wire it to 1 ohm load
 
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