15" Box build

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

You can do it all in one piece, like a frame with a + in the middle. Just make sure that the frame isn't too close to the port opening, so put the sub as far to the right as possible. Dowels work fine too, as does a couple of 1.5" wide strips of MDF glued together to make a 1.5" square brace.

But the frame is probably your best bet for stability.

 

[speakerdude123 10+ year member]

Okay I am going to pick the wood up today so I'll be making the cuts tomorrow. I have put the 1.5x1.5 brace in there, I was gonna put the vertical brace right behind the sub like shown but the horizontal one conflicts with the sub, and if I put it on the edge of the sub it will cut through the 45 port length. Where should I put the horizontal brace? Was thinking I could just make it like a 3-way brace right behind the sub that just connects the the rear wall....

Also let me know if you see anything wrong on these spec's because I will be making the cuts tomorrow!

Thanks again for everyone's input so far!

 

[justafifteen 10+ year member]

Threaded rod makes a good brace too and has minimal volume

 

[speakerdude123 10+ year member]

Okay so the box is being assembled at the moment, now I'm looking for some advice as to what to mount the sub with. On my last build I used a nut and bolt combo, bolting it to the baffle and then glued it on. The problem I have with this is that I have no way of taking the sub in and out, and I would like to glue the baffle on first then mount the sub. This way I can properly seal the whole box with silicone.

I have heard of people using tee-nuts and threaded brass inserts which makes it so they can take the sub in and out easily, but I can't think of any other way I can mount the baffle first and then the sub. I have also heard of problems with using the tee-nuts, as they tend to slip or break the MDF.

So any ideas or suggestions?

 

[speakerdude123 10+ year member]

Double Post

 

[justafifteen 10+ year member]

Why not just screw it in normally?

 

[jake760 10+ year member]

Why not just screw it in normally?

x2

 

[speakerdude123 10+ year member]

What you mean with wood-screws?

 

[jake760 10+ year member]

I've always used drywall screws, no problems with dozens of subs.

 

[speakerdude123 10+ year member]

Hmmm, I guess I could try that and when the time comes to take the sub out I could put t-nuts in there or something. Just didn't think that drywall/wood screws were sufficient enough.

BTW I'll try and post some pics of the final box build when I get it done if you guys would like. Wouldn't happen for a few more days though seeing as how Christmas is around the corner.

 

[justafifteen 10+ year member]

Yeah I just used drywall screws. Make sure you pre-drill the holes and everything or you'll likely split the mdf. When you need to take the sub out there's no other steps. Remove sub, replace sub. The screws will still stay tight, just don't overtighten them and destroy the threads they create in the wood

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

one thing you can do is use t nuts and hex head bolts.

you can take the sub in and out as much as you want, and never have to worry about damaging the box.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I've always used drywall screws, no problems with dozens of subs.

x2, and how many times are you going to take the sub in and out? I've never taken my sub out of a box but maybe once or twice, if that. Normally I just screw it in and leave it in.

 

[speakerdude123 10+ year member]

I actually never take the sub out, my main concern was with putting all of the sides on the box first before putting the sub in so I could seal it with some silicone.

 

[xoutofmyheadx 10+ year member]

why put the sub on the right side on the baffle? why not the middle or the left? does mounting it infront of the inside port lip throw the sound waves off?