10 inch subwoofer for 5ch amp

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OtisWallace

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edmonton
I have an audio control d5.1300 amp (onboard dsp), that needs to power a sub to go in the hatch of a subaru crosstrek. The amps sub channel is rated at 300w @4ohm and 500w@2ohm.

I currently have a cheapo skar 8" sub in a .7 cuft sealed enclosure and to my ear this sub puts out enough "sound" but i want more clarity, tighter punch, and just overall better quality. I would likely maintain a similar sized enclosure maybe going up to 1 cuft max.

The front of the car is Hertz 1650.3 legend components.

I like crisp, clean sound at all frequencies and could care less about going low low low. As is, the 8inch can shake the rearview mirror. Keep in mind I have the dsp to do some tweaking.

Thoughts? and in what configuration should i get the sub (4 ohm vs 2 ohm)? budget $1000 USD but happy to find best bang for buck.

Thanks,
 
I was going to recommend a Dayton ultimax 8 to go in that same box, but you have a much larger budget and can go a different route for sure. Are you wanting a whole new enclosure as well?
 
I’ve done a ton of comparisons on 8 inch subs. I specifically modeled the Dayton ultimax and the skar vd against each other in real life and in simulation. Here was my sealed box graphs when I built the box. I had the Dayton in .7 cubes with a little less than 1 pound of polyfill in the box. It rocked for a little 8. The Skar, not so much. Here is the graph I saved.
0E849C37-E9A5-467C-9B89-4066CB2F9406.png
 
I blew my little Dayton unfortunately being an idiot and over driving it in a ported enclosure, which it is absolutely not meant to be in technically. The skar is more of a ported box 8 , so it doesn’t do very well sealed. Here is the Dayton in a ported box before I burned it up. My plan is to run 4 Dayton ultimax 8s sealed in .7 cubes per sub with a few pounds of polyfill. It’s a far better sub than Skar if you’re not an idiot like me and run it on 1200 watts before really tuning the DSP. I’m still sick about it. Lol
2CD55A57-450E-46D5-96D0-50826E0F47C0.jpeg
 
I blew my little Dayton unfortunately being an idiot and over driving it in a ported enclosure, which it is absolutely not meant to be in technically. The skar is more of a ported box 8 , so it doesn’t do very well sealed. Here is the Dayton in a ported box before I burned it up. My plan is to run 4 Dayton ultimax 8s sealed in .7 cubes per sub with a few pounds of polyfill. It’s a far better sub than Skar if you’re not an idiot like me and run it on 1200 watts before really tuning the DSP. I’m still sick about it. Lol
View attachment 31200
Four of these 8’s sealed has got me curious
 
I blew my little Dayton unfortunately being an idiot and over driving it in a ported enclosure, which it is absolutely not meant to be in technically. The skar is more of a ported box 8 , so it doesn’t do very well sealed. Here is the Dayton in a ported box before I burned it up. My plan is to run 4 Dayton ultimax 8s sealed in .7 cubes per sub with a few pounds of polyfill. It’s a far better sub than Skar if you’re not an idiot like me and run it on 1200 watts before really tuning the DSP. I’m still sick about it. Lol
View attachment 31200

Have you ever looked at the VFL8? Just curious how they measure up. They are rated at 650 rms though.
 
They measure up nicely compared to a lot of other ported 8 inch subs on paper. Definitely better than Skar I believe. I didn’t model it sealed though. I modeled those for 2 ported on my 1400 rms. They look nice.

I really like them. I'm running 3,500 watts to 4 of them. Deaf Bonce is coming out with a 8" pretty soon.
 
I really like them. I'm running 3,500 watts to 4 of them. Deaf Bonce is coming out with a 8" pretty soon.
Now that deaf bonce sounds really interesting. I have a hard time finding a sub I don’t like honestly. It all comes down to what size box I can fit and what type of box the sub works good in. I’m really diggin this 70$ Audio Legion Armada 10 right now. It’s a nice sounding little sub..
 
I can go with a new enclosure.
If you can get up to 1 cubic foot you should consider something with more cone area than a single 8" but do be certain you stick to manufacturer recommended box volume. Also location/position of the box and aiming of the sub will have a much more dramatic effect on your frequency response than the brand. You MUST do some testing to determine what works best in the "room" (car)!

I wouldn't get so hung up on paying premium for a 500W subwoofer. Just don't shop the flea market brands and stick to stuff that is designed to function properly in a sealed box, use the recommended volume for your sealed box, then do some testing to figure out what orientation and location in the trunk won't leave you any really nasty peaks or nulls. If push comes to shove you can always just add some 30 band EQ to get you where you need from there. IMO just about any non-garbage subwoofer should be able to do what you're after with a little care in the install and some EQ.

You'll get farther with a 300$ sub and 700$ worth of DSP than with a 1000$ sub just tossed in willy nilly.
 
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OtisWallace

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