1/0 gauge wire suggestion?

There's nothing dumb about theory when that is what happens in real life... Just because it happens so fast that you can't "see" it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. One wire with the least resistance will take the initial current until it heats up to the point that its resistance is equal or more of the second wire and then the second wire takes current and finally both wires. It happens in nanoseconds (do you know how fast electricity wants to move?) which is why most people won't notice it until they see their fuse block melt (you think they're designed to handle the heat of two or more large fuses?) or they start popping fuses prematurely. Don't believe me? Go talk to an electrical engineer, do some research online, go to college and take engineering courses, calling someone dumb because you don't understand what truly happens yourself is blatant hypocrisy.
There are people here who want to learn the right thing, even if it doesn't necessarily correlate to a real world differences in car audio (maybe your fuse block is over designed and can handle 600 amps). But in reality when you tell someone something truly wrong and they go work on other electronics that do require accuracy, and repeat the same incorrect procedures, things go bad fast. Insulting someone without having any proof otherwise doesn't do anything but make you look like a kid who calls names instead of participating in an intellectual conversation. Professionalism = Respect.
How about you do a large build and tell us all about your actual first hand experience.

Then you can talk.

 
That has nothing to do with what I'm saying.. literally nothing.
Yes it does.

Theories are just that. Useless if they are not proved in real world testing.

You saying it's not ok to double up fuses is stupid. You have no experience with that whatsoever. You have never doubled up fuses, and have no first-hand basis for your claims.

I personally am running two fuses for each 2/0 run. They have not blown.

 
I explained thoroughly that you can run two fuses stacked, but that doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. You probably don't pull anywhere near enough current to reach the capacity of one of those fuses so your point is moot. I don't need first hand basis for my claim, you really have a hard time accepting physics as fact. You're **** straight I haven't doubled up my fuses, if there's a better way I'm going to take it. I don't think picking up a bad habit of stacking fuses will correlate well into other industries I work in. You can continue to tell me because I haven't made a large audio build that I'm wrong, but in reality someone who really knows how electricity works wouldn't argue with the facts. I did my research, I made sure what I'm saying is factual, if you don't believe it then that's your problem. The knowledge is there, it's up to you to go find it. I've made my point.

 
Deleted.

There's nothing dumb about theory when that is what happens in real life... Just because it happens so fast that you can't "see" it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. One wire with the least resistance will take the initial current until it heats up to the point that its resistance is equal or more of the second wire and then the second wire takes current and finally both wires. It happens in nanoseconds (do you know how fast electricity wants to move?) which is why most people won't notice it until they see their fuse block melt (you think they're designed to handle the heat of two or more large fuses?) or they start popping fuses prematurely. Don't believe me? Go talk to an electrical engineer, do some research online, go to college and take engineering courses, calling someone dumb because you don't understand what truly happens yourself is blatant hypocrisy.
There are people here who want to learn the right thing, even if it doesn't necessarily correlate to a real world differences in car audio (maybe your fuse block is over designed and can handle 600 amps). But in reality when you tell someone something truly wrong and they go work on other electronics that do require accuracy, and repeat the same incorrect procedures, things go bad fast. Insulting someone without having any proof otherwise doesn't do anything but make you look like a kid who calls names instead of participating in an intellectual conversation. Professionalism = Respect.
 
knuconcepts 0 gauge OFC sold in 5ft increments on amazon. i have had great experience with their product. it gets the job done right weather its big 3 to speaker wire. I look fwd to buying from them again soon

In other news.. what are good brands that are inexpensive? I'm looking for OFC as well, and pay by the foot.
 
Sky high

Knukonceptz
*fixed

Sky high is a bit bigger, actually. Used both.

Knu is cheaper though. However, if you want the best bang for the buck, welding cable is the "best" option. I have a couple runs of welding cable to my battery bank, because those lengths did not need to be very flexible.

 
knuconcepts 0 gauge OFC sold in 5ft increments on amazon. i have had great experience with their product. it gets the job done right weather its big 3 to speaker wire. I look fwd to buying from them again soon
What do you suggest for heat shrinks, lugs, fuse, etc? I noticed Knu has those cheap. Also what is a good fuse size?

 
i wouldn't be able to recommend lugs or heat shrinks because i custom made my own lugs out of copper tube and wrapped them with electrical tape. I see sky high has some pretty good looking heat shrinks, get an ANL fuse holder and on the fuse size as long as its a little greater than how ever much amps your alt is your good. my alt is 140 and i forgot how much amps the fuse thats between the alt and the battery is, its greater than 140 though.

What do you suggest for heat shrinks, lugs, fuse, etc? I noticed Knu has those cheap. Also what is a good fuse size?
 
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