Featured SoloX-12 6th blowthru

shredder1
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
185.67in2 tuned 27.3hz/54.6hz, Baltic birch /w/ stripper poles for the top panel and allthread for the side panels eventually. Acrylic window and removable top panel too. For now a DB 7.5K @ 1 ohm... lets watch the user upgrade like crazy to find those limits... haha. I'm just the monkey on the keyboard who designed the thing.

Younger guy built it, I like his work I've seen so far. The shop owner is OG and I threw it out there that the owner should let said installer take this one on.

Looks pretty good to me so far...

SoloX-12 matteo.jpg

SoloX-12 matteo #1.jpg
 
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  1. Not right now
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Just my experience but there is a huge difference in output from a fullbridge @ 1 ohm and something legit /w/ the same rating that can be wired lower. We'll see what route the user takes.

I'm fishing for the usual responses btw. Once again those who know... know
 
I've found that to be true too with lower hz bass, where full bridge vs half bridge performance does seem different. Seems half bridges for whatever reason work better with at least super low hz bass, I've had several people go back and forth between full and half bridge amps on huge systems tell me that over time. Damping factor I think is the indicator, more the better.
 
I've found that to be true too with lower hz bass, where full bridge vs half bridge performance does seem different. Seems half bridges for whatever reason work better with at least super low hz bass, I've had several people go back and forth between full and half bridge amps on huge systems tell me that over time. Damping factor I think is the indicator, more the better.
There's no comparison imo between quality boards /w/ superior topology and Brazilian fullbridge bs even if produced in Korea. I may be a Fudd but at least I know to load with something that'll produce results.
Just look at the internals for a quality 8K, then look at the other offerings. You do get what you pay for after all.
Its not science just reality.
And yes... its something you should never cheap out on too much... legit 24db/octave filters and solid dampening really begin to be useful when pushing your gear. People buy a set of fat magnet subs for $1400 and balk at spending $500 on an amp. I say spend less on the subs, a little more on the amp and the rest goes to the enclosure but what do I know?
I'll digress at this point, better that I do so
 
So is that a series tuned enclosure? What is it going in?
Dodge Ram, I still am trying to clean my hands after measuring the thing... haha

I'm a big Dodge fan obviously.

At least the body is solid and should take deadening well, I'm a Chevy guy but in this case I just focused on his gear and goals. It should perform well.

Monday I'll drop in over there and be a pain just to add my worthless .02

It turned out well so far so I'm stoked
 
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I want to say 700wrms. I cracked the walls on multiple floors with 200wrms from a Yamaha HTR-5730 in 2 channel mode. It's running off a Dayton Audio SP1000A now because Kylo Ren's force was shutting down the Yamaha at my reference listening level.

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That's awesome man, I was working on developing my own way of doing those but got sick, that's my goal if I get better is to figure out a solid way to do those consistently. I feel like boxes like those are the way to home audio, line enclosures.
 
Thanks guy! Hornresp is your friend. It's the best FREE speaker enclosure modeling program on the planet.


 
I've found that to be true too with lower hz bass, where full bridge vs half bridge performance does seem different. Seems half bridges for whatever reason work better with at least super low hz bass, I've had several people go back and forth between full and half bridge amps on huge systems tell me that over time. Damping factor I think is the indicator, more the better.
There's no comparison imo between quality boards /w/ superior topology and Brazilian fullbridge bs even if produced in Korea. I may be a Fudd but at least I know to load with something that'll produce results.
Just look at the internals for a quality 8K, then look at the other offerings. You do get what you pay for after all.
Its not science just reality.
And yes... its something you should never cheap out on too much... legit 24db/octave filters and solid dampening really begin to be useful when pushing your gear. People buy a set of fat magnet subs for $1400 and balk at spending $500 on an amp. I say spend less on the subs, a little more on the amp and the rest goes to the enclosure but what do I know?
I'll digress at this point, better that I do so
I was helping someone else ran across this, lol, I've had arguments with some over whether damping factor matters or not, but this is AI overview:

"The amplifier damping factor is a measure of an amplifier's ability to control a loudspeaker's cone movement, calculated by dividing the loudspeaker's nominal impedance by the amplifier's output impedance. A high damping factor indicates the amplifier has greater control, resulting in a tighter, more accurate bass response because it can quickly stop the speaker cone's movement after a note is played. This is often achieved with a low output impedance."

^^^so like all watts aren't the same. Watts with more damping factor behind them perform better across a bandwidth, perform better under harsher playing.

I think why it makes such a difference when playing low notes is because low notes push the cone further for longer, lower you play the more coil-in-magnet movement you get, feedback from that into the amp. Just in general.

So like a high damping factor will make your subwoofer play a wider bandwidth, because the amp can help keep the sub from unloading away from tuning in a ported box. This is something I wish people understood because it makes such a big difference in music.
 
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shredder1

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