Featured 2010 ford ranger, which door speakers???

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Ah, my bad, was looking at the 550 or 540?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The way I read that out at the CDT site is that you have slope options for high power versus lower power on both the tweeter options when you're using an additional image (height) tweeter in the mix. Steeper slope for high-power use depending also on location.

Install them where you can adjust them and see which you like.

 

[slater]

Yeah, doubt we will be adding the additional imaging tweeter...
but who knows...

 

[slater]

Can you guys set me straight real quick on this, sound deadening, inner and outer door panels. Does the vapor barrier go back on after I sound dead, or leave it off?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Definitely put the barrier back on.

 

[slater]

Definitely put the barrier back on.

Out far enough on the inner panel where the door speaker mounts, or get more random coverage through out the inner skin?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Out far enough on the inner panel where the door speaker mounts, or get more random coverage through out the inner skin?

Just sent you three of the best vids I know, from Resonix on how what and where to apply it for optimum effectiveness.

 

[slater]

All the outer pieces were left whole, they were 10x15 sheets.
I Put the kid to work on this one, trying to get him to put in the work...
He seemed to enjoy it...
But then again I asked him if he wanted to do the door panels or should I get them done while he's gone to Arizona this weekend...
He quickly replied with, "go ahead & get it done"....

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I bet, that is the toughest part of the entire install!

 

[slater]

 

[slater]

Also think the plan is, trim those rear speaker locations / plastics out of there, to have more room for the sub box...
So no rear fill.....

 

[Old_Slapper]

Can you guys set me straight real quick on this, sound deadening, inner and outer door panels. Does the vapor barrier go back on after I sound dead, or leave it off?

If you seal the holes with sound deadening material, you don't need the vapor barrier.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Deadening is an expensive way to cover holes, high cost, zero benefit, vapor barrier is already paid for - just saying.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Deadening is an expensive way to cover holes, high cost, zero benefit, vapor barrier is already paid for - just saying.

It is, but the sound deadening helps with keeping the sound and the sound pressure in the door. Al though it is slight, there is a difference in the sound.

 

[slater]

Where the black door handle bezel snaps into the door panel, I forsee a big rattle source! Going to take it apart but should I use Tessa tape to line both in that area, butyl rope, I also have some thinner foam matting I can use…
Don’t have butyl rope but can be easily sourced…
Thoughts?
Sorry about the sideways pics again, theyre straight on my devices....

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Where the black door handle bezel snaps into the door panel, I forsee a big rattle source! Going to take it apart but should I use Tessa tape to line both in that area, butyl rope, I also have some thinner foam matting I can use…
Don’t have butyl rope but can be easily sourced…
Thoughts?
Sideways pics again….

Attachments​

• View attachment 64181

Rope or adhesive backed Neoprene.

 

[slater]

going to tear it down tomorrow & see what the overlap looks like...
I do have Tessa tape, 157mil closed cell foam,
dont think the butyl foil will be a good idea as will be too thick & interfere with it securely snapping back together.
can easily cheaply source butyl rope or even some neoprene rubber...

Really think that are is going to be a rattle trap.

Also these door panels dont snap in place with traditional push pins.
They have big boxy hooks same material of the panel, probably wrap those with Tessa tape, maybe Tessa tape, closed cell foam & more tape, try to keep the bulk down,
Just dont want the panels to rattle!!!!

 

[slater]

Finally able to post a pic...
Majority of the area is wide'ish..
I can to the sheets of closed cell foam I have...
Combination of butyl rope & matting of some sort....

Havent used butyl rope so no idea if it compresses / flattens over time & looses some of its effectiveness..
Yes overthinking, its what I do...
Lots of traffic at that area since its by the handle.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

going to tear it down tomorrow & see what the overlap looks like...
I do have Tessa tape, 157mil closed cell foam,
dont think the butyl foil will be a good idea as will be too thick & interfere with it securely snapping back together.
can easily cheaply source butyl rope or even some neoprene rubber...

Really think that are is going to be a rattle trap.

Also these door panels dont snap in place with traditional push pins.
They have big boxy hooks same material of the panel, probably wrap those with Tessa tape, maybe Tessa tape, closed cell foam & more tape, try to keep the bulk down,
Just dont want the panels to rattle!!!!

It's near impossible to get a rattle free door on the first try when you have a solid midbass driver.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I don't want to hijack anything here but I wanted to get the OP and all of your opinions on the Amazon Sound deadener? Is it any good? Is it sticky?