Featured Improving Car Audio Setup for Ram 1500 Classic Quad Cab

Riley Powell

CarAudio.com Newbie
It's for my ram 1500 classic quad cab. I have the g60s (second pic) have inline crossovers tweeters in the dash and it's woofers in the front doors. I'm running these at 50rms each off the kicker 27key200.4 with a built in dsp. Haven't gotten the hertz mps 250 S4 (first pic) but I'm about to. I plan on putting it under the back seat since there's no other option in a Quad cab. I'm thinking 300rms will be an solid balance for the sub with my given setup. I don't want to overpower the low power g60s prioritizing sql. My main question is, what should I put in the rear doors? Maybe midranges? I need to balance out the g60s. They have very good clarity but the high end of vocals and treble are harsh. The woofers create a punchy high-end base, but the low end base and midrange I think is what is lacking. They dont have enough power to balance out the tweeters maybe. I'm unsure what I'm doing wrong. Yall have any recommendations for tweaks ie changing rms getting a dedicated dsp rather than built in kicker, any amp recommendations to go along with the hertz sub or back door replacements, or anything else I can do to improve my setup. I want to prioritize sql but id have no complaints having a little power and have a preference for tighter puncher bass. Im just afraid of overpowering the g60s that have really good fidelity. The most i want to pay for back door speakers or additions is 400. Although it's worth mentioning Im running this off a android tesla aftermarket radio that was meant to be temporary. This could be causing all my issues. I plan on putting down a decent chunk of change upgrading to a excelon reference, heigh10, or horizon 12.
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G60S.png
 
Has anyone noticed how the Audiofrog G60 speakers look exactly like the old Boston Acoustic speakers?

That Hertz sub would be fine for your truck. With 300 watts, you're underpowering it a bit, but it doesn't sound like you're going to be pushing it any ways.

You mentioned you would like more clarity on the upper end. I would recommend getting some 3-way components for the front and put the G60s in the back. You can get a pretty decent sent of 3-way components for $400. The Precision Power P.65C3 speakers sound really clean. However, that's my opinion.

I would definitely swap out the deck. The sound quality starts at the head unit.
 
Has anyone noticed how the Audiofrog G60 speakers look exactly like the old Boston Acoustic speakers?

That Hertz sub would be fine for your truck. With 300 watts, you're underpowering it a bit, but it doesn't sound like you're going to be pushing it any ways.

You mentioned you would like more clarity on the upper end. I would recommend getting some 3-way components for the front and put the G60s in the back. You can get a pretty decent sent of 3-way components for $400. The Precision Power P.65C3 speakers sound really clean. However, that's my opinion.

I would definitely swap out the deck. The sound quality starts at the head unit.
Yeah I figured swapping the head unit will make the biggest difference. I'm not sure about adding more woofers and tweeters since I'm trying to balance the spectrum. If i knew of the 3 ways that include midranges, I would've bought those in the first place. Although, that leads me to another though of maybe I can get 2 way component woofers and midranges if that's a thing. I should see if they have the ones you recommended to demo somewhere. If I get a second amp for the hertz and whatever rear door speakers i decide on, how should it be wired? I'm thinking I should wire the new amp with the kicker amp so I can use its DSP. I'm unsure of how any of that works though. If the rear door speakers that I get have crossovers, will I be able to make it work with the inline crossovers on the G60s?
 
Yeah I figured swapping the head unit will make the biggest difference. I'm not sure about adding more woofers and tweeters since I'm trying to balance the spectrum. If i knew of the 3 ways that include midranges, I would've bought those in the first place. Although, that leads me to another though of maybe I can get 2 way component woofers and midranges if that's a thing. I should see if they have the ones you recommended to demo somewhere. If I get a second amp for the hertz and whatever rear door speakers i decide on, how should it be wired? I'm thinking I should wire the new amp with the kicker amp so I can use its DSP. I'm unsure of how any of that works though. If the rear door speakers that I get have crossovers, will I be able to make it work with the inline crossovers on the G60s?
If you go active (you'd need a 6 channel with a dsp or a 6 channel and a dsp) you can integrate a 3" mid
 
Yeah I figured swapping the head unit will make the biggest difference. I'm not sure about adding more woofers and tweeters since I'm trying to balance the spectrum. If i knew of the 3 ways that include midranges, I would've bought those in the first place. Although, that leads me to another though of maybe I can get 2 way component woofers and midranges if that's a thing. I should see if they have the ones you recommended to demo somewhere. If I get a second amp for the hertz and whatever rear door speakers i decide on, how should it be wired? I'm thinking I should wire the new amp with the kicker amp so I can use its DSP. I'm unsure of how any of that works though. If the rear door speakers that I get have crossovers, will I be able to make it work with the inline crossovers on the G60s?
You wouldn't be adding more subwoofers. You would stay with the Hertz 10" you mentioned. A 3-way component system usually consists of a pair of 6" mid-bass, 3" mid range, and a tweeters. They would come wiht their own crossovers. You could have all your speakers run off the Kicker 4ch amp, then get another amp for the sub. You wouldn't really need the DSP for the subwoofer. There's not much you would need to control on it. Just the low pass filter and the subsonic filter, and those are on just about every sub amp. The sub amps usually come with a bass knob to help with more or less bass.

The 3" speakers will drastically increase your upper midrange. 6.5" speakers are not the greatest for getting that upper midrange. With a 3-way up front and your G60's in the back doors, your truck will sound really good. Alos, make sure sound deaden your doors.
 
I agree with Spokey, but if you want to stick with a single amp, they have up to 12ch amps.

Let me ask you this,
  • How much are you willing to spend?
  • What other types of systems are you comparing yours to, basically, what have you had in the past?
  • What year is your truck?
 
I agree with Spokey, but if you want to stick with a single amp, they have up to 12ch amps.

Let me ask you this,
  • How much are you willing to spend?
  • What other types of systems are you comparing yours to, basically, what have you had in the past?
  • What year is your truck?
My trucks are 2021 the ram 1500 without the 8.4 inch screen.
I've only ever had stock speakers or a sub added to vehicles in the past.
Trying to spend less than 500 for speakers. Same goes for an amp or anything else.
I'm going to spend whatever I have to on a quality head unit and I already have preferences.
 
You wouldn't be adding more subwoofers. You would stay with the Hertz 10" you mentioned. A 3-way component system usually consists of a pair of 6" mid-bass, 3" mid range, and a tweeters. They would come wiht their own crossovers. You could have all your speakers run off the Kicker 4ch amp, then get another amp for the sub. You wouldn't really need the DSP for the subwoofer. There's not much you would need to control on it. Just the low pass filter and the subsonic filter, and those are on just about every sub amp. The sub amps usually come with a bass knob to help with more or less bass.

The 3" speakers will drastically increase your upper midrange. 6.5" speakers are not the greatest for getting that upper midrange. With a 3-way up front and your G60's in the back doors, your truck will sound really good. Alos, make sure sound deaden your doors.
Sounds like it'd be perfect. Although, I'd have to buy a ex0ensive amp and heavily modify everything for additional speaker locations. The kicker is a 4 channel that only has 50rms. Also how can I tell if I'm lacking midbass or midrange? Also, woofer is a different term than subwoofer my g60s comes with woofers.
 
A plate can be made to easily fit the 3" and 6" speaker in the 6x9 locations. 50w RMS is not a lot of power, but it will do. When you explained that your upper end sounded a little distorted, tells me you are lacking upper mid-range, which is extremely common with 6-1/2" speakers. You can definitly tell when your playing a womans voice and she goes for the higher notes. It should sound like you're in the same room without and distortion.
Yes, a woofer is different than a subwoofer.

Let me take it back a bit. I have built and owned many high-end clean sounding competition systems, and I worked at pretty high-end shops. I only mention that to let you know I'm not a back yard installer. If I were to build your system, I would use a 3-way component system for the front, 6.5" components in the rear, a single 10" subwoofer, and a DSP.

Because your amps might go under your seats, I would choose the marine version amps. Also, the white looks pretty cool.

DSP.

Subwoofer Amp.

4ch Amp.

Front speakers.

Rear Speaker. Your Audiofrog G60s.

Subwoofer.

Sound deadening material.
 
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Riley Powell

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