Would I Need Another Battery For A 1200w System

[slvx3x_]

I had an 800x4 taramps in another vehicle but took it out cuz i got a new car, i will add the 800x4 but i want to buy a 400x4 (200@4 ohms bridged) for two subs (200rms each @ 4ohm) would i need to add anither battery on an 07 odyssey!?

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[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

You should be fine but you'd be better off running your subs off a monoblock than a 4 channel

 

[slvx3x_]

You should be fine but you'd be better off running your subs off a monoblock than a 4 channel

Thank You, so a 0gauge to 3 4/8 gauge distribution block should work!? Same for ground

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

The question is... "Would I need a battery for a 1200w system"... probably not, just wire upgrades. But...
I'd be careful with amp draw and loading if you think you're exceeding your electrical best step is alternator + battery.
I've had "150w" systems that drew 250A in the past.
I hear especially with Taramps a second battery is gold and to keep the wire runs short. That can pay benefits concerning the amp current draw.

 

[slvx3x_]

The question is... "Would I need a battery for a 1200w system"... probably not, just wire upgrades. But...
I'd be careful with amp draw and loading if you think you're exceeding your electrical best step is alternator + battery.
I've had "150w" systems that drew 250A in the past.
I hear especially with Taramps a second battery is gold and keep the wire runs short. That can pay benefits concerning the amp current draw.

Yeah I was thinking about the big3 but i wasnt sure if thats enough or get a battery isolator or an alternator aswell , in the old vehicle the drls would dim but lowbeams would be fine , and yeah they are power hungry, i also have a clarion eq on a sony headunit which is maybe why the lights would dim!?

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

they are power hungry, i also have a clarion eq on a sony headunit which is maybe why the lights would dim!?

Yes... power hungry. Also signal affects power. Clean power that is, Taramps like a battery close I hear. Big fat wire and short runs help. Help tax your electrical more I guess. I design enclosures with advice on systems but Taramps amps is where I step back. I've read about too many failures to really stand behind any advice I give.
Best I got is a battery for a burp or alt/batt for daily.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Taramps are fine, no better or worse than many other full bridge amps in their respective price range. That said, the multi channel full-range Taramps are not designed for subwoofer use. If you are going to use aa Taramps, get the Smart BASS, the big BOSS, one that is designed for BASS duty in mind.

Anything pulling 1.5 to 2K should be fine but may need a little help. Any small AGM inline and proper OFC copper wiring is necessary to insure power is there. You can;t make power without power, regardless of the amp topology.

If you are sticking to full bridge, check out the better of the group, PowerUS or Soundigital monoblock 1600 watt models.

If you're running a pair of 200 watt RMS subs, then about 600-800 watts (wired to 2 ohms as noted earlier) is all you need. There are a number of better options that the multi-channel Taramps noted here.

500 watts @ 2 ohms $125

700 Watt Class D Monoblock Amplifier Car Audio | MT-700.1

Shop 700W Class D Monoblock Amplifiers for your car today! With a sleek and compact design, this amplifier can easily fit into any car audio setup.

stingersolutions.com

520 watts @ 2 ohms $89

Amazon.com

1200 watts @ 2 ohms $110

Amazon.com

709 watts at 2 ohms and the best option of the ones I've listed here for what you need $139

Amazon.com

Do yourself a favor and get any one of these instead.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

I had an 800x4 taramps in another vehicle but took it out cuz i got a new car, i will add the 800x4 but i want to buy a 400x4 (200@4 ohms bridged) for two subs (200rms each @ 4ohm) would i need to add anither battery on an 07 odyssey!?

One final edit for the day: You're wondering about my code name and title? It's computers. Only the strong get placed in this category. I'm actually a veteran. Electronics. But, now that...

Probably not. You would have one long wire blue-white wire connected to one amplifier from the radio. Also connected from the radio side harness would be red and yellow wire. Connect that there. This turns on the radio and the amplifier the same time. Bridged, parallel connections. To start the second amp that is connected in parallel to the first one, you'll have to use some jumper wire, color black to the input of the amplifier. Several #18 wires running along the RCAs and the power cables to the 2 amplifiers that will be used to start the amplifier along with the RCAs. The blue-white wire carries about 8.4 volts to start the amplifier. You'll need about that much volts to start the 2nd amplifier. >= 0.7 volts, which is the standard MOSFETs readings in the active mode. I'm actually reading MOSFETS and zener Diodes now. From a book i burrowed from the library. It talks about linear power car amplifiers. Diodes. So the power goes up in linear. Setting a jumper to the 2nd amplifier will do it. Any color you choose. Black wire will do. You'll need a specific jolt to the amp to give it juice to start it. Use a multimeter to measure that specific spec at the junction to the 2nd amplifier. You'll need to get it above 0.7 volts or above 70% of 12 volts to start the second amplifier. Just curious, what did the instructions manual say on how to setup a amplifier, bridged? Or you tossed those instructions out from the get go?​

Is an Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) wire preferred over CCA (copper-clad aluminum) for Trucks, especially if you want to upgrade your audio system? ​

I included cars. So far I've looked at 4 post on this topic. All of them picked OFC wire over CCA. So, I'll go with OFC wires. diy mobile audio forum, they have this indexed. Of which I'm a member. But since they have lots of engineers to this forum, that topic diy have is already covered in engineering. So I don't join in their topic of conversing. Not anything to it.

You’re a cop. Just a chip off the old block heh?

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Probably not. You would have one long wire blue-white wire connected to one amplifier from the radio. Also connected from the radio side harness would be red and yellow wire. Connect that there. This turns on the radio and the amplifier the same time. Bridged, parallel connections. To start the second amp that is connected in parallel to the first one, you'll have to use some jumper wire, color black to the input of the amplifier. Several #18 wires running along the RCAs and the power cables to the 2 amplifiers that will be used to start the amplifier along with the RCAs. The blue-white wire carries about 8.4 volts to start the amplifier. You'll need about that much volts to start the 2nd amplifier. >= 0.7 volts, which is the standard MOSFETs readings in the active mode. I'm actually reading MOSFETS and zener Diodes now. From a book i burrowed from the library. It talks about linear power car amplifiers. Diodes. So the power goes up in linear. Setting a jumper to the 2nd amplifier will do it. Any color you choose. Black wire will do. You'll need a specific jolt to the amp to give it juice to start it. Use a multimeter to measure that specific spec at the junction to the 2nd amplifier. You'll need to get it above 0.7 volts or above 70% of 12 volts to start the second amplifier. Just curious, what did the instructions manual say on how to setup a amplifier, bridged? Or you tossed those instructions out from the get go?​

I included cars. So far I've looked at 4 post on this topic. All of them picked OFC wire over CCA. So, I'll go with OFC wires. diy mobile audio forum, they have this indexed. Of which I'm a member. But since they have lots of engineers to this forum, that topic diy have is already covered in engineering. So I don't join in their topic of conversing. Not anything to it.

Lay off the paint chip nachos...