Waterproofing speakers in my door

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I honestly believe you need to play with fiberglass.

You seem hands on enough.

 

[Califmike33]

You know what maybe I will cuz I've watched a few videos where they get sticks and cut sticks and use hot glue to get the angle then they wrap it in fabric then they fiberglass it.

Those a pillars are not that much money they're about $35 each to replace so even if I screwed it up which I might I could just try again actually I have done some fiberglass but it's been 20 years since I messed with any fiberglass. And I truly believe the Tweeter in the mid-range molded into the a pillar is going to look the best by far.

 

[Califmike33]

Already made for 1 inch tweeter and 3.5 inch midrange, maybe could make it mold into my A pillars. Loads of them on Ebay.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Already made for 1 inch tweeter and 3.5 inch midrange, maybe could make it mold into my A pillars. Loads of them on Ebay.

Possibly but I think your mid has a fairly unique mounting flange just consider you need to fit the grill to cover the 2 mounting tabs.

And fiberglass isn't hard it's just messy so painters tape and drop cloth are essential. Cover everything and use a release agent if you are going to mold corners. Rings and popsicle stick hotglued to get the right angle and then stretch a t shirt over and apply resin let dry and apply actual mat and resin to build up some layer strength.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Well I was wrong you were right somebody mentioned it being the foam ring that's exactly what it is it's too thick it's an inch thick I probably need half inch thick don't know if I can cut it in half may not be that easy to do have to search and see if somebody makes a half inch thick foam ring.

Use a Razor Blade

 

[Califmike33]

Yes my mid has a weird flange sticking way out but I could cut it off with some cutters and just keep the complete circle to 3.5 in and it would still have a mounting point so the guy in Germany that was going to make the pods for me told me I need to cut that flange off. Those a pillars on eBay are $25 for two of them I guess I could order them get them here and see if I can make them work if not I have to do the whole popsicle stick hot glue.

I've watched quite a few videos on it it doesn't look that difficult but I've never actually done it but it doesn't look that hard. Getting it to look good and match the car that could be a different story.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yeah that's a really short wire from the fuse to the battery post

I think I get the point now I think with the smaller fuse holder I have coming from Amazon it shouldn't be an issue. Part of the problem is it's at 1/0 wires so huge.

I was also looking at the areas where I need to do the big three with the 1/0 that's going to be a whole nother issue the negative from the battery post to the body of the car or to the engine wherever the other end is doesn't look difficult the rest of it I can't even find it's so compact under my hood.

One problem at a time I got to get those door panels to go on first going home right now to figure out what's going on.

I like to use these. Very Compact and a Little Grabber Self Tapper works Great or if you have to Zip Tie it in Place even. They are Made by Stinger. Ive never had any issues with them overheating and melting the Plastic housing and Damaging the wiring. I just replaced a kicker one that fell apart in my Brothers Off-Gridd Van Yesterday.Works Great and seals from majority of the elements

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RUOFBC/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The 7 channel down4sound amp now available $675, of course after I bought the sundown audio amp.

I still have a Brand New In The Box Autotek SX 777. I had two. Cant wait to get this one running sometime next year

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Been trying to lay out the mid-ranges on my dash it's a very weird dash in my car. It's curved and it stays curved the whole way except for in the very back corner of the a-pillar comes down and ends it goes flat for about a four four and a half inch square maybe 5 in it goes completely flat.

In order to get the speaker to sit in there you would have to either pull the dash or you'd have to pull the windshield out to build the drill the hole to put the speaker in I am unwilling to pull the dash out I've watched the video on it it's way too much work. I do know a glass guy automotive guy to pull my windshield out for me but I don't feel confident getting it done in one day and I park my car outside so I could not leave my car outside with the windshield out that's not looking like a good option.

I guess if I could get the holes in the dash and then have my buddy pop the glass back in all in one day I'd probably be okay. The most likely probably the easiest thing to do is order those aluminum pods from the guy in Germany simplest way drill holes in the a pillar and mount them I'm not too fond of the look of those pods and really rather have this mid-range and a dash and then put one pod to hold the Tweeter.

Called a couple local shops to see how much they would charge me to fabricate the a-pillar to accept the mid-range and Twitter and the guy said well it all depends on the angle how much angle there is anywhere from $700 to like 2,500 sounds expensive I can get the pods with the mounting brackets for 320 bucks.

Comments and feedback are welcome what you think my best option is obviously money is an object if money was no object I would just go pay whatever it takes to have my a-pillars molded to fit.

Wow!! Those guys are Banking!!!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Already made for 1 inch tweeter and 3.5 inch midrange, maybe could make it mold into my A pillars. Loads of them on Ebay.

Ive been looking at those myself. To cut and utilize for two sets of tweets and a mid

 

[Califmike33]

They look pretty good and they're dirt cheap on eBay and the guy sold like 200 of them I think it says you have to have a minimum size or with of your a-pillar to make it work I may order a couple and just try it.

Yeah but those guys want that much money to fabricate my a pillars are making serious money but they're not getting my money.

 

[Califmike33]

Trying to figure out my layout for the amp and the wires I seen a lot of guys I guess drill holes and put zip ties to hold everything down probably when I'll end up doing.

Also see a lot of guys have a power block mounted with the wire coming in from the battery and then another one coming out so you could hook up multiple things I guess do I need to do that or can I just run it directly from the battery to the fuse and then run the wire from the fuse straight into my amp.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I used to go to MECCA Meets to get some ideas and Listen and get to see different installs/ Speaker Direction ect. One guy use PVC Caps. They actually looked pretty bad azz after he painted them

 

[Califmike33]

That's pretty interesting.

I didn't realize he's rcas were going to stick so far out the back of the amp which now that could become an issue of hitting and not enough room under my seat. Think I'll just drill some holes in this piece of wood and zip tie the wires down but I'm going to sand the piece of wood down and clear coat it with some clear coat.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Trying to figure out my layout for the amp and the wires I seen a lot of guys I guess drill holes and put zip ties to hold everything down probably when I'll end up doing.

Also see a lot of guys have a power block mounted with the wire coming in from the battery and then another one coming out so you could hook up multiple things I guess do I need to do that or can I just run it directly from the battery to the fuse and then run the wire from the fuse straight into my amp.

I use these or the Xscorpian ones. TSpec have decent ones also. Its always nice to have an extra space on the power Block for future needs. Same with a Distro Solid ground block