3” mid locations effect on stage

What did you do in your Bugs for mids and highs? How were they "imaged" (placed) [mounted]?

You can drag me if you want. It was my first attempt at speaker pods. Three layers of 1" mdf. I wanted to match the Bugs paint. A piano black finish on mdf isn't easy. This is only the mids/highs.

 
Last edited:
You can drag me if you want. It was my first attempt at speaker pods. Three layers of 1" mdf. I wanted to match the Bugs paint. A piano black finish on mdf isn't easy. This is only the mids/highs.



Yea that bug I'm sure was loud but if you had the speakers aimed on axis towards the listeners ears you can perceive more detail at a lower volume making it overall less fatiguing.

You also could have a situation where the extra detail is overbearing in which a good eq can tame it down unlike being off axis which you would need to boost up. Turning down is always better than boosting up.

As far as imaging. You bug would've had terrible imaging. The sound staging being on the floor or behind you or both.

We tend to mount mids in the doors or kicks for convenience but if they were mounted inline with your ears at equal distance your sound stage would be nearly perfect.

But since we aren't mounting 6inch mids on the apillars wer compensate by mounting smaller midrange and tweeters up high and use time alignment to adjust the sound stage up or down between the low mount mids and the high mount highs. In addition to the already present left and right time alignment.

Typically mounting on axis helps reduce reflection distortion and delay as well. That distortion will always be there but you can minimize it by aiming on axis and by using soft panels. A carpet dash cap helps a lot as well as cloth seats and carpet floors. These all absorb sound waves and minimize distortion.

Personally I try and mount my tweeters facing the opposite side headrest so as to not whole lopside the sound stage to just the drivers side. I lose a touch of definition but not much.

All this in hand it really just depends on what kind of sound you want. I personally don't run pro audio especially not super tweeters
 
Yea that bug I'm sure was loud but if you had the speakers aimed on axis towards the listeners ears you can perceive more detail at a lower volume making it overall less fatiguing.

You also could have a situation where the extra detail is overbearing in which a good eq can tame it down unlike being off axis which you would need to boost up. Turning down is always better than boosting up.

As far as imaging. You bug would've had terrible imaging. The sound staging being on the floor or behind you or both.

We tend to mount mids in the doors or kicks for convenience but if they were mounted inline with your ears at equal distance your sound stage would be nearly perfect.

But since we aren't mounting 6inch mids on the apillars wer compensate by mounting smaller midrange and tweeters up high and use time alignment to adjust the sound stage up or down between the low mount mids and the high mount highs. In addition to the already present left and right time alignment.

Typically mounting on axis helps reduce reflection distortion and delay as well. That distortion will always be there but you can minimize it by aiming on axis and by using soft panels. A carpet dash cap helps a lot as well as cloth seats and carpet floors. These all absorb sound waves and minimize distortion.

Personally I try and mount my tweeters facing the opposite side headrest so as to not whole lopside the sound stage to just the drivers side. I lose a touch of definition but not much.

All this in hand it really just depends on what kind of sound you want. I personally don't run pro audio especially not super tweeters

There aren't any spots up high to mount speakers in a Bug. I honestly don't like that much tweeter in my systems. That's why I wanted a dedicated midbass in the doors. Those Pioneer pro 6-¾" in the rear of that black Bug were loud and had plenty of highs for me. They are a nice midrange speaker. The tweets in the doors were good and not too harsh. Thanks for explaining how you do it! 👍
 
There aren't any spots up high to mount speakers in a Bug. I honestly don't like that much tweeter in my systems. That's why I wanted a dedicated midbass in the doors. Those Pioneer pro 6-¾" in the rear of that black Bug were loud and had plenty of highs for me. They are a nice midrange speaker. The tweets in the doors were good and not too harsh. Thanks for explaining how you do it! 👍

As long as you were happy. The one thing you said was they were loud, typically that has quite the trade off
 
Would you rather have low sensitivity and quiet midrange, midbass, and tweets when trying to keep up with a 3K bass setup?

I never said it didn't fit your uses but personally overbearing highs aren't my thing and generally i run at least 250w per front door so my highs are generally loud enough for 3kw of base. Granted my last 3kw system was an American bass HD12 in a Nissan versa that one was a 149.6db (hatchbacks are fun for bass)

I'm more likely to run my system at a more reasonable level daily than full tilt all the time
 
I never said it didn't fit your uses but personally overbearing highs aren't my thing and generally i run at least 250w per front door so my highs are generally loud enough for 3kw of base. Granted my last 3kw system was an American bass HD12 in a Nissan versa that one was a 149.6db (hatchbacks are fun for bass)

I'm more likely to run my system at a more reasonable level daily than full tilt all the time

I'm not running anywhere near that per front door. Maybe 100 watts per door and 100 watts on each side of the dash max. I have a Crescendo S4 on my mids/highs. Great amp.
 
I'm not running anywhere near that per front door. Maybe 100 watts per door and 100 watts on each side of the dash max. I have a Crescendo S4 on my mids/highs. Great amp.

My backup amp I'm using now is an 80x4 alpine so on each do I have 160 right now. 80 to each tweet and 80 to each mid.


I've run a d5.1000 at 90x4 and a d5.1500 at 125x4

The d5.1500 I had at 125x2 at 4ohm for the tweeters and 180x2 at 2 ohm for the mids for quite a while. I will likely be running 150-200w per channel when I redo my system.

Headroom makes things so much nicer
 
My backup amp I'm using now is an 80x4 alpine so on each do I have 160 right now. 80 to each tweet and 80 to each mid.


I've run a d5.1000 at 90x4 and a d5.1500 at 125x4

The d5.1500 I had at 125x2 at 4ohm for the tweeters and 180x2 at 2 ohm for the mids for quite a while. I will likely be running 150-200w per channel when I redo my system.

Headroom makes things so much nicer

I've got two 6-½'s and two tweets to keep up with the 3,500 watts on my 8's. They keep up pretty good. A little old school song.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

The difference in 96 to 98 db is going to net you about an 22% difference in output, all things considered equal. When it comes to 325 per channel...
8
267
gain set well below "Normal" and base boost is off completely
15
2K
That was something I was going to try also to remove some of the gasjet from the front
12
1K
Definitely hard to beat, but they're deep. Didn't know these were still floating around.
13
2K

About this thread

Boowi

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
Boowi
Joined
Location
Surf City
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
24
Views
2,191
Last reply date
Last reply from
Bobbytwonames
DD451980-D607-41AB-B69C-6745AAE4B848.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
F98C6D78-7734-4659-9FCA-34969BDDC56A.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top