Need some advice

[Bentarm13]

New guy, thanks for having me. Here’s my dilemma, new 21 tundra crew max with JBL
1. Can I replace the sub with a better one, basically cut out old and install new. I know the JBL has an amplifier, just don’t know the wattage.
2. If I can’t, can I delete the sub entirely, cap the wires and add an amp and new sub while keeping the factory amp for the remaining speakers.
I don’t need a screaming system, just want a little more bass without tearing the entire truck apart.
Thanks in advance

Click to read more...

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

I would go with option 2
You would need a line output converter or a dsp
A sub, amp and box
Wiring
What size sub/s were you thinking
There are some guys around here that have done some great things with really small subs
I think 2 8's or 4 6.5's would do way better than 1 shallow mount 10 or 12

 

[Bentarm13]

Thanks man.I’m guessing I need an amp with 2 sub outputs as I’m going to run 2 8" due the extreme limited space behind the seats and virtually none under the rear seats. I have the line converter. So run the power from battery to the amp, blue power wire to radio fuse or try to find the power wire going to the existing amp? Splice line converter into a rear speaker then to amp, not a tweeter? Hook both subs to the amp outputs and rock out with my socks out?
Do I just remove the existing plastic sub box and cut\cap those wires?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Mounting depth is going to be your kryptronite. I've seen two shallow mount JL's in a Tundra, but those are pretty pricey. 4 - 6-½'s on a 1K amp will probably be your best option. Audio Legion makes some decent 6-½" subs that have a fairly shallow mounting depth.

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

No you dont need a 2 channel amp
Use a mono channel
I'll give you the shortest ohms law description ever
Car audio speakers are usually but not always 4 ohms or lower perd voice coil
Most subs come with dual voice coils usually in dual 4, dual 2, or dual 1
A dual 4 has a final load of 2ohms, dual 2 has a final load of 1ohm and a dual 1 has a final load of .5 ohms
Amps power ratings are in ohms
so lets say a 1000 watt amp ratings will look something like this
650 watts @ 4 ohms
800 watts @ 2 ohms
1000 watts @ 1 ohm
The ohms rating your amp is running at is determined by the speakers
Now what you want is a mono channel amp that is able to run at 1 ohm (some are only good to 2 ohms so make sure its good down to 1 ohm)
2 dual 4 ohm 8" subs will give you a 1 ohm load which will get the most out of the amp
Bobby is right about mounting depth
You can't use the the stock amps power wire its not even close to big enough
Depending on what amp you put in the min is 4 gauge wire but I would go with 2 or 0 but that's me
You can use a fuse tap for your remote wire
Just tap the sunroof or the wipers and run that back to the amp
I'm not sure what loc you have but if you want it work properly it need to at the very least have a line driver built in to boost the signal . They are not that much money. Yes splice int to the sub wires.
The box is going to be everything here
I would look into having one made that puts the subs under the back seats facing outward
Ported is a must IMO
As for equipment
If it was me I would do 2 SSA F8L's
https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f8l-8-650w-rms-subwoofer-by-ssa/
Running off an Sundown Audio SFB 1500
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...s-class-d-amplifier-fullrange-full-range.html
Or a Sundown Audio SIA 1750
https://www.down4soundshop.com/sundown-audio-sia-1750/

 

[Bentarm13]

Thank you all, great info from every one of you. I am a pretty skilled carpenter so I feel pretty confident I can build a really nice ported box that will fit behind the seat. Planning to mount the amp to the rear wall also where the existing brackets are.

 

[LsGuy]

Carpentry skills are great, but if you are going to run ported the box design will make or break the build. Reach out to @Buck and see if he can design you a box.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

@Bentarm13

Where are you in FL? I'm in FL. We build boxes down here with CNC machines.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If you want to, you can PM me or email me (buck.box.designs@gmail.com). Send me pics of what's in the vehicle now and tell me how far you want to go; I'd just be looking at it as a designer. I could help you figure your options and how it would sound, equipment recommendations, just let me know.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Might want to get on a tundra forum and ask if it's as simple as deleting the factory subwoofer. Some of these new cars amps need to see resistance on all channels.

But I would go aftermarket. Replacing the subwoofer alone isn't going to do much if anything. If you want a slight increase you can add some polyfil to the factory subwoofer box. Make a small difference in the Ford Sony subwoofer boxes I have dealt with.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

you can get one of these...

Stealthbox Audio | Automotive Subwoofer System | Garmin

JL Audio’s Stealthbox subwoofer system elegantly integrates with your vehicle — delivering high-quality sub-bass performance in a compact design.

www.jlaudio.com

 

[Bentarm13]

@Bentarm13

Where are you in FL? I'm in FL. We build boxes down here with CNC machines.

Casselberry

 

[Bentarm13]

So here's my plan:
Remove factory sub and enclosure.
Dynamat the rear wall
Install new amp, run power to the battery (with inline fuse near the battery), remote on tapped to the wipers or similar fuse
Mount amp in suitable location where old box was, giving it as much space to breath
Build or (hopefully) buy a good box for 2- 6 or 8" shallow 2/4 ohm subwoofers.
Use the existing sub wires to connect to an in-line converter and then connect that to amplifier.
Connect amplifier to sub box connections
Have fire extinguisher, Jack n' coke in hand and turn this thing on.
If all works, zip tie, secure, double check all connections, secure box and put it all back together.

I can't tell all of you how much I appreciate the information you've provided. I can fix anything, build anything. But car audio is, and has been a weakness.
Jason

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Shallow subs usually are terrible, IMO. I would see what you could REALLY fit somewhere. Good shallows are really expensive, and there's not that many.

 

[Bentarm13]

Shallow subs usually are terrible, IMO. I would see what you could REALLY fit somewhere. Good shallows are really expensive, and there's not that many.

Buck, I think you know what I'm looking for. Ported box for 2- 6 or 8" subs. Nothing spectacular, I just like my music, don't need the entire country to know I'm playing my music. 2021 crewmax, I can remove the seats, do all the wiring. Ideas? You can reach me directly 843-267-6672 text or call. I don't want to drop a fortune but I want someone to just do it right.