Newb need help with sub and amp choice for beginner

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If you can’t install yourself the $200 of that is likely going to be consumed by install cost.

Big 3 and amp power wire - $110

deck - $80


Sub - $150
a beefy 10 is a good idea so you can slightly manipulate output by increasing box size


amp - $190


Box - $150

audiobahn recommendation . Yish that’s an expensive prefab I bet if you checked your local craigslist or let go there’s a guy near your that builds enclosures who could shave that cost for a bare bones box

wire reducers - $12

rca -$12

speaker wire - $20 (save the rest for when you your doors)

fuses/holders - $14

The option I laid out requires you to crimp your own lugz to wire but you’ll have to that with the kit too so you might as well do em all. Also a spooo if wire is good so you’ll have it when you do your doors
I really appreciate you taken the time out to show me these great options
 
I really appreciate you taken the time out to show me these great options
That deck is awesome. I bough from the same seller refurbished and it’s got great signal and great tuning capabilities

also that amp is a beast and at 2 ohms will be a ton of power for that xfl. And should you later decide you want to give up more trunk and add another ten, two of those 1044 xfl’s will wire to a one ohm load and that amp Dynos at 2400 watts rms at 14.4(engine on).Good flexibility
 
That deck is awesome. I bough from the same seller refurbished and it’s got great signal and great tuning capabilities

also that amp is a beast and at 2 ohms will be a ton of power for that xfl. And should you later decide you want to give up more trunk and add another ten, two of those 1044 xfl’s will wire to a one ohm load and that amp Dynos at 2400 watts rms at 14.4(engine on).Good flexibility
just adding if you want to do that upgrade In the future you will absolutely need a big 3 and a stronger battery under the hood. xfl's are absolutely amazing in their price-point. and even with just 1 your friends jaws will drop when it out performs their 2 12" mtx or rockford p1 setups
 
just adding if you want to do that upgrade In the future you will absolutely need a big 3 and a stronger battery under the hood. xfl's are absolutely amazing in their price-point. and even with just 1 your friends jaws will drop when it out performs their 2 12" mtx or rockford p1 setups
The deck and big 3 will be my first things I do and don’t know about the battery I have a Optima yellow top don’t know if it’s good for systems. I kinda wanted to just put a battery in the trunk .
 
A yellow top is fine for your front. Don’t replace it if it doesn’t need it. When it’s time go grab the biggest agm duracell from sams club or a Napa legend agm (use the rebate promo). You won’t need a dual battery setup with with you’re running. I have 1600 watt korean half ride on a agm in my old ass Acura TL and it’s fine
 
A yellow top is fine for your front. Don’t replace it if it doesn’t need it. When it’s time go grab the biggest agm duracell from sams club or a Napa legend agm (use the rebate promo). You won’t need a dual battery setup with with you’re running. I have 1600 watt korean half ride on a agm in my old ass Acura TL and it’s fine
I just replaced it and it has lifetime warranty so I’ll keep getting them if it goes bad. Thanks!!!!
 
yeah the yellow top is fine. I personally use a northstar agm on 1600 w rms and voltage drop isn't too bad. I just meant that you will have to watch your battery charge if you don't replace the alternator. I'd get a voltmeter on your dash for that. if you are absolutely hammering all the time there is more power going out then going into the battery via the alternator. so it will run just fine with the car on but as soon as you go to start the car again there might not be enough power to crank your car back up. this can be fixed by turning down the volume or shutting the amp off for a while while your alt charges it back up. or trickle charging your batteries every few days at night.
 
yeah the yellow top is fine. I personally use a northstar agm on 1600 w rms and voltage drop isn't too bad. I just meant that you will have to watch your battery charge if you don't replace the alternator. I'd get a voltmeter on your dash for that. if you are absolutely hammering all the time there is more power going out then going into the battery via the alternator. so it will run just fine with the car on but as soon as you go to start the car again there might not be enough power to crank your car back up. this can be fixed by turning down the volume or shutting the amp off for a while while your alt charges it back up. or trickle charging your batteries every few days at night.
Man there is so much that goes into this 😅 so what type of alternator should I upgrade to to avoid this problem?
 
Man there is so much that goes into this 😅 so what type of alternator should I upgrade to to avoid this problem?
You don't need that with 1 10. I haven't gotten a new alt and I've been watching my voltage. Running 1500 rms about 30 mins a day its been a month and my charge is just now showing 12.4 resting. And dropping to 12.5 running. It's about time to charge it. I don't know yellow tops and it depends on your alt but it may not be a problem. But it may. All I'm saying is make sure you keep an eye on it. It isn't a 400 watt mtx system. I used to have to get jumps all the time and didn't know why lmao
 
DevinMoto’s input is overkill. Don’t worry about a battery or your alt unless you identify dimming problems with your new amp and big 3 installed. An 1800 Full bridge amp with gain correctly ser will not need a bigger alternator for 2 ohm wiring to a single 10. his single yellow top with big three will be fine assuming he is listening to his music with his engine one. Just don’t try to impress your friends demoing with the car off.
 
Then what I recommend is all buttoned up for under $800
No supply and ground wiring for the amp/amp kit,? Those ANL Fuse holders would be fine in the deck/ inside the vehicle, but not recommended for being under the hood, as they do not seal off from moisture and the elements.He needs to be running at a 2ohm load in that vehicle with the existing alternator 80-125 amp alt /stock. Running 1 ohm and he will have a harder time keeping the electrical / battery up.Yellow tops take a little longer to charge back up. He can get bye with adding another battery in the rear if need be.
 
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HennyGod

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