Rear Battery dead = melted 0ga wire

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West1
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Recently my mechman 270 HO alt was rebuilt after having a bad diode(s). Truck sat in the shop for about 1.5 weeks due to shipping and I was out of town for 2 days after Alt arrived.

When I got it back, the mechanic put it in and told me it's ready for pick up (YES!).

Turned the truck on and noticed my stinger volt meter was only going up when I accelerate, then drop to low 13.0v when I let go (very unusual especially on a constant 3yr 14.6v cold start).
I went into disect mode and Wired both batteries individually and Ohm meter had my XSpower D3100 (3yr old battery) reading at 14.6 on a cold start but rear Duracell g31 (1.5-2yr) deep cycle was reading .8 (dafuq).

For the few minutes I had both batteries running at the same time, my 0ga wire where the Alt positive meets the ANL 300 fuse to XSpower Battery had melted my fuse box! Fuse did not pop but it sure made the bottom of my fuse box look like ice cream.

Currently im at a steady 14.6v full tilt with new Duracel g31 deep cycle (same exact model as .8 dead bat) but have not driven it more than 8 miles.

I'm stumped on why one battery would stop charging instead of both?
Any ideas?
I have not done anything to my audio for about a year with the exception of swapping out mids 4 months ago.
I had my transmission rebuilt and about 3 days after that is when I started having volt issues which lead to my Alt diode(s) fail.

Tyvm for any help! Trying to prevent any future issues :)
 
Sounds like you had a highly corroded connection in the fuse box. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a highly corroded connection in other locations in the vehicle as well. I would start by checking every termination point of the wiring and go from there. It's hard to say without looking at the connections myself, but you'll know when you see it.

For the deep cycle to be at .8vDC, it had to of shorted to ground somewhere, or internally.
 
Sounds like you had a highly corroded connection in the fuse box. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a highly corroded connection in other locations in the vehicle as well. I would start by checking every termination point of the wiring and go from there. It's hard to say without looking at the connections myself, but you'll know when you see it.

For the deep cycle to be at .8vDC, it had to of shorted to ground somewhere, or internally.


Thanks for the reply. I checked all 0ga ends, myself nor the mechanic seen anything other than the melted fuse box between the alt/battery.

0ga from alt to battery was both dark on the outside and a bright pink in the inside.
That has been replaced and new copper rings added.
 
Today I noticed my batteries are at different volts. XS is at 14.2 (under the hood) and Duracell g31 is at 13.9

Is rerunning 0ga to 2nd battery the solution?
 
Check your engine/alt/battery grounds... Sounds like something either burnt or corroded.
I COOKED my 0ga ground once... Had to double everything up and relocate to frame, frame to body and engine to both then run between the locations doubled up. If you feel the positive is adequate and solid I'd investigate my underhood grounds.
Im fighting a voltage issue now... Unrelated... But best of luck.
I'd watch your connections, mine looked fine but were crispy till redone.
 
I think I'm just going to rewire +&-

Anyone know a budget friendly 1/0 ofc brand? Or link to recommended wire
Tyvm
Welding cable. Royal exceline or electronbeam are great options. Do a quick google search for "welding supplies near me" and give them a call. Some people have gotten lucky and the local place sells it for the same price as online. Anything under $3/ft for 1/0 ofc is a good deal. I'd pay up to $4/ft for the convenience of getting it local

Oh wow you're actually in luck. 2/0 OFC is on sale right now, both red and black. Usually it's blue or orange or something. http://electronbeam.com/index.html
 
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West1

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