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General Car Audio
Rear Battery dead = melted 0ga wire
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<blockquote data-quote="West1" data-source="post: 8679825" data-attributes="member: 586208"><p>Recently my mechman 270 HO alt was rebuilt after having a bad diode(s). Truck sat in the shop for about 1.5 weeks due to shipping and I was out of town for 2 days after Alt arrived.</p><p></p><p>When I got it back, the mechanic put it in and told me it's ready for pick up (YES!).</p><p></p><p>Turned the truck on and noticed my stinger volt meter was only going up when I accelerate, then drop to low 13.0v when I let go (very unusual especially on a constant 3yr 14.6v cold start). </p><p> I went into disect mode and Wired both batteries individually and Ohm meter had my XSpower D3100 (3yr old battery) reading at 14.6 on a cold start but rear Duracell g31 (1.5-2yr) deep cycle was reading .8 (dafuq).</p><p></p><p> For the few minutes I had both batteries running at the same time, my 0ga wire where the Alt positive meets the ANL 300 fuse to XSpower Battery had melted my fuse box! Fuse did not pop but it sure made the bottom of my fuse box look like ice cream.</p><p></p><p> Currently im at a steady 14.6v full tilt with new Duracel g31 deep cycle (same exact model as .8 dead bat) but have not driven it more than 8 miles. </p><p></p><p> I'm stumped on why one battery would stop charging instead of both?</p><p>Any ideas?</p><p>I have not done anything to my audio for about a year with the exception of swapping out mids 4 months ago.</p><p> I had my transmission rebuilt and about 3 days after that is when I started having volt issues which lead to my Alt diode(s) fail.</p><p></p><p> Tyvm for any help! Trying to prevent any future issues <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="West1, post: 8679825, member: 586208"] Recently my mechman 270 HO alt was rebuilt after having a bad diode(s). Truck sat in the shop for about 1.5 weeks due to shipping and I was out of town for 2 days after Alt arrived. When I got it back, the mechanic put it in and told me it's ready for pick up (YES!). Turned the truck on and noticed my stinger volt meter was only going up when I accelerate, then drop to low 13.0v when I let go (very unusual especially on a constant 3yr 14.6v cold start). I went into disect mode and Wired both batteries individually and Ohm meter had my XSpower D3100 (3yr old battery) reading at 14.6 on a cold start but rear Duracell g31 (1.5-2yr) deep cycle was reading .8 (dafuq). For the few minutes I had both batteries running at the same time, my 0ga wire where the Alt positive meets the ANL 300 fuse to XSpower Battery had melted my fuse box! Fuse did not pop but it sure made the bottom of my fuse box look like ice cream. Currently im at a steady 14.6v full tilt with new Duracel g31 deep cycle (same exact model as .8 dead bat) but have not driven it more than 8 miles. I'm stumped on why one battery would stop charging instead of both? Any ideas? I have not done anything to my audio for about a year with the exception of swapping out mids 4 months ago. I had my transmission rebuilt and about 3 days after that is when I started having volt issues which lead to my Alt diode(s) fail. Tyvm for any help! Trying to prevent any future issues :) [/QUOTE]
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Rear Battery dead = melted 0ga wire
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