2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[JeeperVol]

They actually have a pension plan for employees at JL audio so literally you are paying 5x the price for their pension.

I reread your in depth post above...my friend didnt claim the 10" dayton ho wouldnt come close to my puny 250 watt 8" micro sub.  He said the Dayton wouldnt come close to the w6v3 in terms of overall quality of output and the w6v3 would prob last longer. 

To clarify, are you saying the w6v3 is a better sub than the Dayton HO, but just not 3 times the cost better? ($159 vs $475)  If the price gap wasn't as large, how much more would you be willing to pay for the 10" w6v3 vs. the 10" Dayton 10" 315HO?  I read through Dayton HO reviews on Parts Express and they're mostly positive...there are a few that reference the quality not being top notch and wanting more volume. What sub would you recommend that is a step up from the Dayton for <$300 not including the enclosure?

By the way, I listed my micro sub on ebay in a 7 day auction with bids starting at $275 and on craigslist...hopefully, it sells.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I listed my sub on ebay in a 7 day auction with bids starting at $225.   I'm curious...if the price difference wasnt as large, how much more would you be willing to pay for the 10" w6v3 vs. the 10" Dayton 10" 315HO?  I read the reviews on Parts Express and they're mostly positive...there are several that reference the quality not being top notch and its not the hardest hitting sub. What sub would you recommend that is a step up from the Dayton for <$300 not including the enclosure?

Around my area we get w6 10s for 150 and w6 12s for 200s and I feel thats more close to their price for performance.  I'd always learn how to spot a bad sub then buy used. I literally dont lose any money buying used good subs since I sell for similar price i bought it for give or take 10-20 bucks.  You should also read the part where they are powering the dayton sub with some kind of 300 watt plate amp for home theater and there's no guarantee that they know how to setup the sub positioning correctly in a room or a car... like how you are having your port for your microsub facing in towards the seats its poor setup and inadequate power a lot of times. You did say you want sound quality... If you want loudness well at least look at it in action. Its not that bad.  One vid is on 320 watts cheapo amp and he got some window flex and its drowning out his mids and highs. You should get almost similar output with a sealed box (which is less loud than his ported) but with 3x the power so it balances out. 



Yeah there's louder subs out there that can flex your windshield two or 3 inches but they need big ported boxes. For example this dark audio industries setup on 500 watts, the subs cost around the dayton's price point, think your buddy's w7 can do this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MW5zTIzeR4U&feature=youtu.be  Space is bass, you want more bass give up more space. Buuut you said you want sound quality so lol.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

You can pay more for a more expensive sub but you'll have shittier performance because most expensive subs need boxes 1.5x to 2x the size of the space of what you have available and with an undersized box you'll be choking those subs and you get absolute garbage performance.  Again its not throwing money at the situation, you choose the proper drivers that work in your particular situation aka space constraints meaning you need a really small box sub. You cant buy a sub engineered for a large enclosure and put it in a tiny enclosure and expect it to sound decent. Enclosure is everything for both sound quality and loudness.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Make sure you get the dual voice coil one not the single voice coil... as for quality not being top notch... lmao it comes with a 5 year warranty with your purchase!.  Not that they need it, they know their subs last thats why they offer that. Just doesnt apply if you abuse and blow up the sub yourself cranking everything beyond stupid levels. JL audio has 1 year warranty btw.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

 

[JeeperVol]

Make sure you get the dual voice coil one not the single voice coil... as for quality not being top notch... lmao it comes with a 5 year warranty with your purchase!.  Not that they need it, they know their subs last thats why they offer that. Just doesnt apply if you abuse and blow up the sub yourself cranking everything beyond stupid levels. JL audio has 1 year warranty btw.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Great info...thanks again.  My friend is going to help me run a 4 gauge power source, add new fuse/distribution block to my other amp and wire the new sub amp and sub.   Considering the 5 yr warranty and knowing the sub hasnt been abused, I'm dialed in on the Dayton DVC HO.  Is there a noticeable difference in output between the Dayton 10" vs. 12" powered with the jl audio jx1000?  I'm leaning towards the 10".

For the enclosure, I prefer the sealed hatchback angled box style with terminal on back and black carpet so I can rear face the sub and position the angled back of the box against the back seat and have the wire terminal in the back.  The Amazon one you sent had the electrical on the exposed side in my setup.  Would this 5/8" thick box work well?

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33867_Atrend-10SAL.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_campaignid=926514397&utm_keyword=&utm_product=33867&utm_matchtype=&utm_device=m&utm_content=220574119182&gclid=CjwKEAjw__fnBRCNpvH8iqy4xl4SJAC4XERP4pcDLDZqOYeL9rNqfe_PP_MySMILtf2gJG6Mc4tu6BoCVc7w_wcB

 

[fithwheel]

I never read too much into reviews when it comes to subs unless it's overwhelmingly negative. There's just too many variables that can cause issues that have nothing to do with the sub. From crap enclosures dirty power improper set up customer abuse etc. 

I have my fair share of dayton products tweeters mid range drivers subs mini amplifiers rack mount amplifier plate sub amp to crossover components. I've never had any issues with anything I've bought. I certainly wouldn't let a couple of negative reviews detour you. Like Jeff said they do back their products. I'd be more worried about buying someone's used equipment that comes with no support than buying a dayton. Just my .02.

 

[JeeperVol]

I never read too much into reviews when it comes to subs unless it's overwhelmingly negative. There's just too many variables that can cause issues that have nothing to do with the sub. From crap enclosures dirty power improper set up customer abuse etc. 

I have my fair share of dayton products tweeters mid range drivers subs mini amplifiers rack mount amplifier plate sub amp to crossover components. I've never had any issues with anything I've bought. I certainly wouldn't let a couple of negative reviews detour you. Like Jeff said they do back their products. I'd be more worried about buying someone's used equipment that comes with no support than buying a dayton. Just my .02.

Thanks for the feedback

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Great info...thanks again.  My friend is going to help me run a 4 gauge power source, add new fuse/distribution block to my other amp and wire the new sub amp and sub.   Considering the 5 yr warranty and knowing the sub hasnt been abused, I'm dialed in on the Dayton DVC HO.  Is there a noticeable difference in output between the Dayton 10" vs. 12" powered with the jl audio jx1000?  I'm leaning towards the 10".

For the enclosure, I prefer the sealed hatchback angled box style with terminal on back and black carpet so I can rear face the sub and position the angled back of the box against the back seat and have the wire terminal in the back.  The Amazon one you sent had the electrical on the exposed side in my setup.  Would this 5/8" thick box work well?

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33867_Atrend-10SAL.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_campaignid=926514397&utm_keyword=&utm_product=33867&utm_matchtype=&utm_device=m&utm_content=220574119182&gclid=CjwKEAjw__fnBRCNpvH8iqy4xl4SJAC4XERP4pcDLDZqOYeL9rNqfe_PP_MySMILtf2gJG6Mc4tu6BoCVc7w_wcB

you'll have to use a 10 not a 12. i said that in an earlier post. You have no proper space for a 12.

 

[JeeperVol]

you'll have to use a 10 not a 12. i said that in an earlier post. You have no proper space for a 12.

I'm confused...the Dayton sealed spec for the 12" calls for .49 cu ft enclosure and the 10" calls for .53.   I wonder why the 12 requires less space? 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm confused...the Dayton sealed spec for the 12" calls for .49 cu ft enclosure and the 10" calls for .53.   I wonder why the 12 requires less space? 

yeah but you dont have the dimensions to fit the 12 for the cutout.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

Not much difference between .49 and .53. Get the 12 and make it work. Go for cone area if going sealed. Better yet do ported. Space makes bass. Cargo room is overrated. 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Not much difference between .49 and .53. Get the 12 and make it work. Go for cone area if going sealed. Better yet do ported. Space makes bass. Cargo room is overrated. 

he said its 11.5 x 11.5 x 9 dimensions in an earlier thread lmao.  He has a lot of room back there though. He's just not budging.

 

[JeeperVol]

he said its 11.5 x 11.5 x 9 dimensions in an earlier thread lmao.  He has a lot of room back there though. He's just not budging.

I like to use my trunk and like the stealthier OEM look when possible.  In a hatchback style box slanted in the back against the back of the rear seat, I can go 15" wide x 14" tall x 14" deep at the bottom and 9" deep at top.  Do you have any mounting ideas that would secure the sub and still allow me to easily be able to remove the box when I want?  I currently screwed the internal back wall of the sub into a mounting board making it a pain to remove....bc I have to remove the woofer to access the internal screws and unscrew it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I like to use my trunk and like the stealthier OEM look when possible.  In a hatchback style box slanted in the back against the back of the rear seat, I can go 15" wide x 14" tall x 14" deep at the bottom and 9" deep at top.  Do you have any mounting ideas that would secure the sub and still allow me to easily be able to remove the box when I want?  I currently screwed the internal back wall of the sub into a mounting board making it a pain to remove....bc I have to remove the woofer to access the internal screws and unscrew it.

line the whole bottom with industrial strength velcro strips.  Like 15% coverage and that baby aint going anywhere even if your car flips (my bud wrecked and flipped my old car with a 140lb subwoofer setup and the box didnt move at all with the flip but you can easily remove the box yourself with pulling from the sides or corners.  

if you can do that much space then yes a 12 is fine use all that space though dont go any smaller.  Just because the 12 says you can go as low as .49 doesnt mean its the optimal for the sub, you can get deeper bass response the bigger you go. From my graphs it actually shows .833 cubes to be the most accurate response with a QTC of .707 the numbers you posted is .97 cubes subtract the space the sub takes up will be right around .85 net cubes which is close to perfect.

 

[JeeperVol]

line the whole bottom with industrial strength velcro strips.  Like 15% coverage and that baby aint going anywhere even if your car flips (my bud wrecked and flipped my old car with a 140lb subwoofer setup and the box didnt move at all with the flip but you can easily remove the box yourself with pulling from the sides or corners.  

if you can do that much space then yes a 12 is fine use all that space though dont go any smaller.  Just because the 12 says you can go as low as .49 doesnt mean its the optimal for the sub, you can get deeper bass response the bigger you go. From my graphs it actually shows .833 cubes to be the most accurate response with a QTC of .707 the numbers you posted is .97 cubes subtract the space the sub takes up will be right around .85 net cubes which is close to perfect.

Thanks...I may get a 3/4" box custom made if it's less than $125.  I dont have the tools to cut the circles or make the angled cuts to make the rear slanted hatchbox box.  I like the velcro idea except...its easy for a thief to simply pull out with a wrangler and I'm a little concerned with it moving when I take it offroad.  Any ideas for a more secure mount?