2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[JeeperVol]

11 minutes ago, Jeffdachef said:

its in craigslist, the usual crackhead prices lol. we got a few in socal, i'd have to drive to the scarier neighborhoods but its all worked out real well most of the times.   

The taramps is definitely an option if size is a factor. Not sure why you are so hesitant about that amp. You can do the md 1800.1 instead if the 3000.1 number scares you that much.. This is the md.1800.1 on an amplifier dyno testing for true RMS wattage at different levels of THD.

I want to be able to use my jl audio telephone connector bass knob that is drilled into the driver shifter area.  It was a pain to remove the dash plus console to mount it....so I'm sticking with a jl audio amp

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I want to be able to use my jl audio telephone connector bass knob that is drilled into the driver shifter area.  It was a pain to remove the dash plus console to mount it....so I'm sticking with a jl audio amp

take it out and replace it with this. Arent you suppose to include the bass knob when you sell your microsub anyways for more money? This is both a bass knob and a voltmeter to make sure you arent stressing any part of your electrical system two birds with one stone

 

[JeeperVol]

take it out and replace it with this. Arent you suppose to include the bass knob when you sell your microsub anyways for more money? This is both a bass knob and a voltmeter to make sure you arent stressing any part of your electrical system two birds with one stone

I bought the bass knob seperate...so its not being sold with the microsub.  I like where its mounted....yours wouldnt work in the same location.

 

[JeeperVol]

take it out and replace it with this. Arent you suppose to include the bass knob when you sell your microsub anyways for more money? This is both a bass knob and a voltmeter to make sure you arent stressing any part of your electrical system two birds with one stone

Can you help me with my parts list?  What 0 AWG and 4 AWG wire do you recommend?  What fuses and distribution?  What sub speaker wire?  I'd like to get it all from amazon is possible...would be great to get a kit with everything.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Use knukonceptz 100% ofc wire

 

[JeeperVol]

Use knukonceptz 100% ofc wire

Thanks...what about fuses and distribution block?

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Thanks...what about fuses and distribution block?

KnuKonceptz sells those as well. 

On a side note- Royal Excelene welding wire is really the way to go if you're ok with sourcing all of the pieces you need.

KnuKonceptz has the convenience factor of having prepared install kits consisting of all high grade materials. 

 

[JeeperVol]

take it out and replace it with this. Arent you suppose to include the bass knob when you sell your microsub anyways for more money? This is both a bass knob and a voltmeter to make sure you arent stressing any part of your electrical system two birds with one stone

Can you or @THATpurpleKUSH help with this... My installer is advising 0AWG is overkill to power my 2 amps and 4AWG would be plenty of power.  Should I go 4AWG from battery to distribution and then 4AWG from distribution to each amp and then 14AWG from amp to sub? 

Or should I do 4AWG from battery to distribution and keep my 8AWG wire going from distribution to my Alpine amp and run 4AWG to the sub?  Logically, it would seem that a 4AWG power cable distributed to 2 different amp on a 8AWG wires would only provide 8AWG power capability to the amps.  Thoughts?  

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Can you or @THATpurpleKUSH help with this... My installer is advising 0AWG is overkill to power my 2 amps and 4AWG would be plenty of power.  Should I go 4AWG from battery to distribution and then 4AWG from distribution to each amp and then 14AWG from amp to sub? 

Or should I do 4AWG from battery to distribution and keep my 8AWG wire going from distribution to my Alpine amp and run 4AWG to the sub?  Logically, it would seem that a 4AWG power cable distributed to 2 different amp on a 8AWG wires would only provide 8AWG power capability to the amps.  Thoughts?  

4 gauge only handles 130-150 amps of current. when you split that in half with two amps and 8 gauge is 50ish amps of power. I mean it'll work... but it'll be the exact same sh*t you have now, might as well not even do it at that point.   Power travels from the battery not the distribution block, just because you have 4 gauge connected to the amp from the distribution block doesnt mean you are actually running 4 gauge wire when you split it like that.  So yes your logic is spot on. 

as for the bass knob, think about it... if you figure out a way to swap it with the universal one, you cut your amp spending to a fraction and you get more power and you get a voltage meter to monitor system health.  Vs keeping the JL bass knob and spending 500-800 on a 600-750 watt amp. Literally double to 3.5x the money vs figuring out how to make things work.

 

[JeeperVol]

4 gauge only handles 130-150 amps of current. when you split that in half with two amps and 8 gauge is 50ish amps of power. I mean it'll work... but it'll be the exact same sh*t you have now, might as well not even do it at that point.   Power travels from the battery not the distribution block, just because you have 4 gauge connected to the amp from the distribution block doesnt mean you are actually running 4 gauge wire when you split it like that.  So yes your logic is spot on. 

as for the bass knob, think about it... if you figure out a way to swap it with the universal one, you cut your amp spending to a fraction and you get more power and you get a voltage meter to monitor system health.  Vs keeping the JL bass knob and spending 500-800 on a 600-750 watt amp. Literally double to 3.5x the money vs figuring out how to make things work.

Current setup has (1) 8AWG power going to distribution and then (2) 8 AWG wires going from distribution to 2 amps.   If I upgrade the battery + both amp powering wires to 4AWG, would that be worth it?   I found a used jl audio hd750/1 for $250 used that I'm going to look at today.  I'm going to listen to it hooked up and smell it looking for a burnt smell.  Any other recommendations to try and make sure it's a good amp?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Current setup has (1) 8AWG power going to distribution and then (2) 8 AWG wires going from distribution to 2 amps.   If I upgrade the battery + both amp powering wires to 4AWG, would that be worth it?   I found a used jl audio hd750/1 for $250 used that I'm going to look at today.  I'm going to listen to it hooked up and smell it looking for a burnt smell.  Any other recommendations to try and make sure it's a good amp?

okay 250 is more reasonable for an hd series.  You can have the 8 gauge dedicated to the mids and highs and 4 gauge to the sub amp. The most important factor here is a true dedicated 4 gauge to the sub amp since the HD series are regulated internal power supply and they need current to function well.

I would actually install a voltmeter first, see where your voltages are dropping and then see if you need a batt upgrade or not.  

 

[JeeperVol]

okay 250 is more reasonable for an hd series.  You can have the 8 gauge dedicated to the mids and highs and 4 gauge to the sub amp. The most important factor here is a true dedicated 4 gauge to the sub amp since the HD series are regulated internal power supply and they need current to function well.

I would actually install a voltmeter first, see where your voltages are dropping and then see if you need a batt upgrade or not.  

Sounds good...so buy a new distribution/fuse that will work with 4 AWG OFC wire going battery to distribution and leave my 8 AWG going from distribution to Alpine 85 RMS x 4.  Then buy a 4 AWG to run from the distribution to the jl h750 that will be under passenger seat?   Then run 14 AWG speaker wire from hd750 to the 10" dayton DVC HO in the trunk area?  

I'm still debating between the dayton 10" vs 12" sub.  Leaning towards 10.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Can you or @THATpurpleKUSH help with this... My installer is advising 0AWG is overkill to power my 2 amps and 4AWG would be plenty of power.  Should I go 4AWG from battery to distribution and then 4AWG from distribution to each amp and then 14AWG from amp to sub? 

Or should I do 4AWG from battery to distribution and keep my 8AWG wire going from distribution to my Alpine amp and run 4AWG to the sub?  Logically, it would seem that a 4AWG power cable distributed to 2 different amp on a 8AWG wires would only provide 8AWG power capability to the amps.  Thoughts?  

I wire overkill so I will always say go with the biggest wire you can get. Based on the current draw of the amps you are using I'd say do 0ga to a distro block then 4ga to the sub amp and 8ga to the mids and highs amp. 

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

My 4awg is split into two 4 awg and powers a 125 x 2 amp and a 1200 x 1 amp. 4awg ground wire they both share. A 120 amp fuse near the battery. No issues. Going to change to 1/0 though just because my d blocks accept it and I have a fuse holder for it. Go 1/0 even if you don't pull 150 amps. 

 

[JeeperVol]

okay 250 is more reasonable for an hd series.  You can have the 8 gauge dedicated to the mids and highs and 4 gauge to the sub amp. The most important factor here is a true dedicated 4 gauge to the sub amp since the HD series are regulated internal power supply and they need current to function well.

I would actually install a voltmeter first, see where your voltages are dropping and then see if you need a batt upgrade or not.  

I looked at the hd750 and didnt pull the trigger.  Felt sketchy buying a 7 yr old amp with scratches on it from a reseller. 

I tried to source 11 or 13 layer birch or pine plywood for the box and none of my local places have it.  They only have 7 layer.  Found an online place who will ship a 4'x8' piece for $108.  That's way too much.   Other ideas or just go with the 7 layer?