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Im looking to do a nice SQ in a sealed box. I want to retain SQ but wouldnt mind going a tiny bit big bass heavy. I have some woofers in mind to do but want your guys opinion before I buy anything. All these woofers would be 1.25 to 1.5 sealed per woofer. Any other woofers would be great.

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Straight up the jl w6 are hard to beat for a clean sq system

 

But any of those subs will work well. I'd throw a Dayton ho in there, as well as the alpine type s, and the incriminator audio flatlyne.

 

For the money the alpine type s sound extremely good 

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Have a link for the Dayton?

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What would give me best sq with good bass

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There are many factors that determine how much "SQ" you can get out of a sub, and sub selection is lower on the list of important items.  The enclosure and sub combo will determine the low end extension that can be produced and the sub/enclosure placement in the vehicle determine what you actually hear. 

The Sundown SA-12 can be an excellent budget SQ sub and one I may personally run in the near future (replacing an expensive sub).  If you'd like to now more about why I mention Sundown, there is a good interview with the owner here where he discusses his testing procedures and what the latest version has to offer:

 

Dayton Audio also makes good products for the price point.  That said, JL Audio does an excellent job and their products are highly recommended.

The idea that you need a sealed enclosure for SQ is a misnomer.  Ported enclosures can improve/extend frequency response and increase overall enclosure efficiency.  Both of which can help with SQ goals.  But the placement of the enclosure determines what cancellation you will get.  Consider wavelengths of interest and how the rear of the vehicle produces a reflection that can cancel the direct path.  Certainly, take time to play around with placement, and don't be surprised if rear corner loading (facing into the corner) sounds the best.  One good way to test is to listen to tracks with bass that "walks the scale" - meaning it varies from high to low frequencies while you listen for consistent output.  If some notes are louder than others (and conversely some are quieter) then you may be hearing phase interference (cancellation or addition).

 

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The daytons look really nice and there pretty cheap too. There three lines right? HF which is 400RMS HO which is 700RMS and Ultimax which is 600RMS. How come there top of the line woofer is only 600? One question I have. Ill Use the dayton ultimax for example. Its 600RMS 1200 Peak. If I run sealed would I run it at 600RMS or closer to peak like 1000RMS?

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Anyone? 

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On 10/12/2018 at 8:52 PM, Accord90 said:

The daytons look really nice and there pretty cheap too. There three lines right? HF which is 400RMS HO which is 700RMS and Ultimax which is 600RMS. How come there top of the line woofer is only 600? One question I have. Ill Use the dayton ultimax for example. Its 600RMS 1200 Peak. If I run sealed would I run it at 600RMS or closer to peak like 1000RMS?

The ultimax is rated a touch less because even though it has more excursion it requires a larger box to use the excursion. In turn this lowers the mechanical power handling 

 

The ho is a small box sub. The small box suspension is nice but it requires more power in the small enclosure to reach full excursion

 

The hss is a lower excursion sub iirc and requires less power over all to reach mechanical limits

 

Honestly I'd throw 800-1000w to either the ho or the ultimax assuming it is cleaning power and you have the proper enclosure to keep the sub from unloading.

 

The hss I'd run 500-750w with clean power and taking care to not bottom the sub out


2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel

2013 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD 4x4

Pioneer touch screen with front and rear cam

Memphis viv component run active

2 alpine pdr-m65

1 alpine pdr-f50

2 jl 13tw5-3 in subthump understeat box

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Audiomobile makes a great SQ woofer as well.


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Morel will not do anything for what you are looking for. JL, ID, or Dayton...


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On 10/12/2018 at 6:52 PM, Accord90 said:

The daytons look really nice and there pretty cheap too. There three lines right? HF which is 400RMS HO which is 700RMS and Ultimax which is 600RMS. How come there top of the line woofer is only 600? One question I have. Ill Use the dayton ultimax for example. Its 600RMS 1200 Peak. If I run sealed would I run it at 600RMS or closer to peak like 1000RMS?

Peak doe snot mean anything dont even look at it. Also power rating has nothing to do with quality, its based off of the design of the sub and materials used. A 600 watt sub can be as loud as a 1500 watt sub its just on the design.

 

I would lean more towards the HO over the Ultimax for car audio because the Ultimax requires a rather large enclosure.

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Well I'm thinking about either 3 10s on 2400rms sealed or 2 12 alpine x series on 2400rms both sealed. I want musical and hit every note

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id get the 2 W6s and run them sealed.  i have an Accord sedan, and 1 12" RE SE sealed, shakes my entire car with ease and sounds sweet sq wise.  the W6s will do the same, only louder.  i listen to rock, metal, rap, trap etc

Edited by nauc

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These are just my opinions and are only opinions... I think the subwoofer name brand and models matter the least out of all the building blocks of the "Sound Quality" subwoofer section. My opinions are that, in this order, the enclosure materials are paramount, enclosure design follows next, the amplifier fits in here, then the subwoofer wraps it up. Of course it will all sound like garbage if you use the best materials you can get your hands on and the best designed enclosure to fit your ride with the best amplifier powering your mean ass sub(s).... if you feed it a low quality, crap bit rate recording.

Pretty much you can buy whatever subwoofer(s) you are attracted to and can afford. Once you have the sub(s) and the parameters you can focus on the more important things... the list above. If you want it to be clean and sound as good as it can... be anal about the build and be realistic about the expectations of the subwoofer(s). Realistically, 2 - 3 - 4... subwoofers are going to be LOUD which can actually drown out the rest of your speakers. This can make a would be great SQ system sound like crap because there is just too much bass. So if you want to know how many subs you need or want, look to your mids and highs first... how much power are they getting, how loud are they. Try a few subwoofer test boxes to see what blends with your mids and highs... 1 sub... 2 or 3 subs. A pain in the butt I know but it will let you know how many is too much or too little.

My home audio system uses a single Yamaha 8" active servo subwoofer. It shakes my whole house with "75w" of power. My Jeep uses a single 10" RF Punch P3 subwoofer with about and estimated and somewhat approximate 600w ish of power and can be heard and felt from a good distance outside of the Jeep but it blends well at REASONABLE sound levels with the mids and highs which are getting near 120w per front door and 80 - 90w per rear door though the rear doors are attenuated to a much lower volume. My point is... Be realistic about what you want, no need to impress anyone but you, make sure what you get will blend with the rest of the system and not over or under power it. It's more about execution than equipment.

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On 10/17/2018 at 2:10 PM, Accord90 said:

Well I'm thinking about either 3 10s on 2400rms sealed or 2 12 alpine x series on 2400rms both sealed. I want musical and hit every note

So you are not thinking a SQ type build. You are wanting an SPL set up with SQ leaning drivers.

 

Also how you going to power all that?

Edited by ckeeler11
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We did an install with two 15" Dayton audio subs in my dad's Yukon XL running off of a PPI Black ICE amp. They were a little underpowered but they sounded great and were pretty loud. I wish we had a little bigger amp pushing them to see what they were really capable of. They were impressive to say the least. 


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Throwing in my biased opinion on the SSA Icon

The upcoming Demon and Hellions will work too.

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I will be running 2 10s or 2 12s sealed in my spare tire well. Right now looking at the Alpine R, Alpine X, and Dayton HO. One question I have if I run the Alpines on 2400RMS and the Alpine R will be in 1.7 sealed and the Alpine X will be in 1.5 sealed what are the differences I am going to notice?

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The Dayton HO is an awesome sub that's very versatile and for the price you cant beat it.

I think for what you're going for the Image Dynamics IDMAX is 1 of the best subs on the market, a SQ sub that will get loud, I'm a ported box guy, always have been. I've always leaned more towards SPL, but I had a Lexus IS300 back in 2004-2008, I already had my SPL setup in my Durango but I wanted something in my Lexus, so I went with 2 sealed IDMAX 10s, best sounding subs I've ever owned.

If it were me I'd choose between IDMAX, Dayton HO and I'd throw the SSA Icon in there too.

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