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What effects will fiberglassing the inside of an enclosure have?

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I know it will make it stronger and more solid which is better for spl but will it effect the tuning and how the box sounds?

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you talking resin or resin and mat? Resin will do nothing for strength and even with mat if would have to be several layers to make a diff.

 

It WILL cost you some $$$ and take some time, that's about the only thing certain. Some guys gain a fuzz on the meter doing resin inside and some don't. No it won't change how the box sounds unless you had a bunch of leaks and magically sealed them...

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you talking resin or resin and mat? Resin will do nothing for strength and even with mat if would have to be several layers to make a diff.

 

It WILL cost you some $$$ and take some time, that's about the only thing certain. Some guys gain a fuzz on the meter doing resin inside and some don't. No it won't change how the box sounds unless you had a bunch of leaks and magically sealed them...

 

Agreed, use some window bracing instead if you are looking for strength.


Head unit: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X996

Front stage: Alpine Type X PRO mids Vifa Neo 1" silk tweeters

Front stage amp: PPI Bk800.4

Subs: SSA XCON 12's in 4.5 cubes tuned to 34hz

Sub amp: PPI Bk1300.1

Sound Deadening: Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Spectrum, and Sludge

 

 

Team SSA

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depends on material box is made of.... if birch above help is correct, mdf on the other had is very pourous and applying resin over the complete box would make it more air tight (yes air will pass through the mdf - search for mdf and shop vac videos) so it will make the boxes air loss loss much less.... chasing .10 in the lanes yes, daily not worth the cost, time and smell. if going to resin might as well just build it from birch...


Sundown Audio

Audio Technix

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depends on material box is made of.... if birch above help is correct, mdf on the other had is very pourous and applying resin over the complete box would make it more air tight (yes air will pass through the mdf - search for mdf and shop vac videos) so it will make the boxes air loss loss much less.... chasing .10 in the lanes yes, daily not worth the cost, time and smell. if going to resin might as well just build it from birch...

 

Don't believe the vid personally, static charge in the air maybe. Secondly a ported box his a BIG *** hole in it, air will escape from there before it magically went thru the mdf walls...

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Don't believe the vid personally, static charge in the air maybe. Secondly a ported box his a BIG *** hole in it, air will escape from there before it magically went thru the mdf walls...

 

Yes exactly, people continuously quote the MDF leaks video but when you have a huge hole in your box for the port that air is going to take the path of least resistance, not try and force its way through the mdf.

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more pressure builds up in a ported box over a sealed box, I guess i am bias twords Birch - easier to use, makes less saw dust, stronger, lighter, resist moister way-way more. I only us MDF when i half to anymore, for less that $10 a sheet difference i just cant see why not to use it.


Sundown Audio

Audio Technix

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Oh boy... not this again.


Saying "clipping doesn't kill speakers" is a half-truth at best. Technically no, clipping itself does not hurt the speaker. But in clipping your amp, you can easily create a situation that WILL kill the speaker. Was the squared waveform the DIRECT cause of the failure? No. In the end, the answer is, always has been, and can only be... heat kills speakers. BUT, clipping increases heat generation, sometimes by a drastic amount. So to start a thread simply to state that clipping does not hurt speakers is, again, a half-truth at best.

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I've seen this go both ways... I watched a guy gain .2-.3 just by soaking the inside with resin. His buddy tried it the following weekend and actually lost .1-.2

Seen a guy sound deaden the inside of this enclosure as well and he actually gained a small amount at certain tones but lost just as much at other tones. ****'s weird... Personally, I just get standard wood sealer and soak my MDF before I build my box. Then I use PLENTY of glue, wipe it clean and then caulk the corners all up after it's dry.

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more pressure builds up in a ported box over a sealed box, I guess i am bias twords Birch - easier to use, makes less saw dust, stronger, lighter, resist moister way-way more. I only us MDF when i half to anymore, for less that $10 a sheet difference i just cant see why not to use it.

 

x2 on only using birch so personally I don't care if you can use MDF as a collander to strain pasta :crazy:

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