How much is too much? (install question)

Pl8er
5,000+ posts

Can you solve it?
I'm about to start an install on my car. I plan on running a ED amp nine.2x, and for right now a us amps 4085. I will upgrade the 4085 to a us amps hybrid in a few months and may change out the 2x for a little more power later on down the road. What type of amp install kit should I get? I guess a better question is what would be the gauge I would be best off with? I'm looking at knu for the kits.

Thanks,

Justin

 
Kits are a bit overpriced (unless you do an Ebay thing, and even then you aren't sure what the wire REALLY will be...) (But NM i read that you are doing Knu)

What I would suggest is for you to get a single run of cable to power both your current amps and any future amps you might want to add.

What amps are you going to eventually run?

 
Did you say your running 2 amps? You def. want no less than 4 guage. Also look to see if you can find an amp kit with a power dist. block if you are running 2.

 
I do plan on running 2 amps (ed nine.2x and us amps 4085) I only want to run one power cable and remote wire. I will ground in the trunk. I plan on using a distribution block as well. So 4 gauge would be the way to go? Would I be safer with 2 gauge or is that overkill?

Thanks,

Justin

 
There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to power wire size. If you plan to upgrade down the road with more power, and you're not sure how much power you'll be going to, go with the biggest wire possible from the beginning. 1/0 would be my choice. If you look around on eBay you can get power wire pretty cheap.

 
Thats what I was sorta thinking. Go with 1 gauge from the front and just split it off to the amps from there...that way I don't have to change the power ever...just the wire from the dist. box.

How about RCA cables? Any that make a real difference?

 
I recommend spending some good money on RCAs rather than the probability of hunting down noises that are simply associated to crappy cheap signal cables. Triple shielded versions and some with the separate grounding lines that run along the tubing with the RCAs like the highest series from Monster Cable, not sure if they make them anymore or not. You can also get 8 conductor single sheath wire from parts express and use it as a long High Level from the head unit to the amplifiers and put a converter on them at the end. That would take care of your highs. Just run an RCA jumper from the output of your highs amp to the input of your sub amp and voila!

 
I will look into the high end RCA's for sure. I had a hum in my last install that I could never track down. I finally decided it must be the RCA's. By then, the car made so many other noises I didn't care LOL.

I'm confused on the jumping from the RCA output on the highs to the input of the sub amp. Would that have any negative effect? I mean I think I would not have as much control over the sub from the head unit, right?

 
How much power wire and remote turn-on wire should I get? 12 feet?
I used over 15' in my Neon. 17' RCAs were just long enough. Buy a longer length than you need and cut it to length (leaving about an extra foot or two in case you want/need to make a change later). You don't want to try to splice 1/0 to add more length...

As far as RCAs go, avoid the super cheap Wally World unshielded cables, but there is no reason whatsoever to even think about spending more that $20-25 per cable. I use the Stinger Bullet series myself, and noise is not an issue. Unless you have done something wrong or have a bad component in the signal chain, you will not have noise in a system and I do not know of a single instance where swapping a basic shielded RCA that wasn't damaged for a high dollar gucci cable that costs a ton to pay for its marketing has solved a noise problem in a system. High-end cables are kinda like a ROLEX in my eyes. They look nice and are basically a status symbol. You are not getting any more function for the money than my $30 Timex. If you MUST have the high $ cables, go ahead and go completely stupid and wire the whole car with Kimber pure silver litz speaker wire and get the little rubber feet for your amps to keep the fidelity of the transistors from getting affected by the vibration and get a wooden volume knob because the metal to metal vibration of the stock knob introduces spurrious sound into the signal chain. It's your money, if you want to waste it go ahead. The money would be better spent IMO on higher quality amps and speakers.

 
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Pl8er

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