Zv4 15 box almost done!!!

[Jeffro83]

Mine is going into a 1998 Yukon same thing as a Tahoe though you can get up to 140 amp at any auto parts store I have heard they make stock alternators up to 200 amp but I couldn't find them you can get up to 370 amp in a high output from pretty much anywhere they're pretty common between 5 and 700 is the prices I found my plan is to put a 370 amp or at least a 320 something that makes two hundred amps at idle four AGM group group 31's in the back and a AGM group 34/78 up front aready got the batteries so I just need the alternator but that's why in the last post I said I'm going to start out running each amp at 2 ohms then once I get the alternator strap them at one ohm and go from there on however much more electrical I may need

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Go with CES. Cheaper than their competitors...and just as good. Pricing for HO alts is ridiculously high.

Wondering why you didn't go with subs up, port back?

 

[Jeffro83]

CES is going to be the first person I call when I'm ready to make a purchase and I did go Subs up Port back pictures must have made it look funny for some reason but it was your recommendation about ces i think that I seen in another thread that made me look them up anyway I appreciate the info

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

CES is going to be the first person I call when I'm ready to make a purchase and I did go Subs up Port back pictures must have made it look funny for some reason but it was your recommendation about ces i think that I seen in another thread that made me look them up anyway I appreciate the info

omg your right....I didn't look on page 1 1st..........for some oddball reason thought you had subs/port on same plane

 

[Jeffro83]

omg your right....I didn't look on page 1 1st..........for some oddball reason thought you had subs/port on same plane

Hey man I got a question for you when you built your box you used Baltic Birch if I remember correctly did you have any problems with the wood swelling or splitting when you screwed it or nailed it together I pre-drill screw holes to attach the double baffle and when I did the MDF seems to have either swelled or split at almost every screw hole when you run your hand down the side of the box it feels almost wavy in the next box I build I want to do with Baltic Birch if I can find it didn't have any luck this go round but I definitely don't want to run into this problem again cuz the box was turning out great until that

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Hey man I got a question for you when you built your box you used Baltic Birch if I remember correctly did you have any problems with the wood swelling or splitting when you screwed it or nailed it together I pre-drill screw holes to attach the double baffle and when I did the MDF seems to have either swelled or split at almost every screw hole when you run your hand down the side of the box it feels almost wavy in the next box I build I want to do with Baltic Birch if I can find it didn't have any luck this go round but I definitely don't want to run into this problem again cuz the box was turning out great until that

My single 8" enclosure was baltic birch. The 2 15's is just another birch wood, which I won't get again. I mean it's not bad but I'm kinda picky on the wood I choose. That splitting your talking about, you have a pic or two of it? Might be 1 of 2 things....too close to the edge, screw will bulge out and/or when you predrill the holes, it may not be deep enough.

Few pics of my work for ya //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Jeffro83]

Nice work bro I wanted to build my 15 box like you did yours and then put a Plexi window on each side of the port when I rebuild that is how I'm going to do it I think the bulging came from the screws being slightly off-center I laid everything out and kept it as Center as possible and they were tiny trim screws normally I would not screw MDF anyway I would use my brad nailer like I did on the rest of the box but I only had 2 inch Brad's on hand and it was late night and I found a box of 2 and 1/2 inch trim screws and figured why not I've seen others screw MDF as long as I pre-drill it should be good but almost every single screw bulged on one side or the other

 

[shredder2]

I predrilled for a #6 once about 1.5" deep then used a #8 2.25" screw and it did the same thing... with the Woodglue it was fine... but idk how bad yours split... and you've got some power on hand... just keep an eye on it

 

[jigsizzle 10+ year member]

Did you post that t-line on caco boomin? That box looks awesome dude...

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[Jeffro83]

I predrilled for a #6 once about 1.5" deep then used a #8 2.25" screw and it did the same thing... with the Woodglue it was fine... but idk how bad yours split... and you've got some power on hand... just keep an eye on it

I will definitely keep an eye on it the bulging isn't terribly bad you can only see it if you look from just the right angle or run your hand down it you can feel it but I used a ton of glue and it still seems strong as hell won't really know till it's installed I guess the drill bit was the same thickness as the shaft of the screw but not the threads and it was probably a quarter inch shorter than the screws I tried it on a sample piece first and it seemed to work well but apparently not well enough if it does start to come apart I guess I'll just throw a little one by two or something in there to hold it till I build the next one

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Did you post that t-line on caco boomin? That box looks awesome dude...
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Holyshit...there's a familiar name I haven't seen for awhile!! I did...something like 1st t-line enclosure build or close to it, in general audio section.

 

[shredder2]

Well... you're gonna find out... it's probably 6hp after rise if those amps deliver as advertised... and the center port would have used airspace... the side port was the best option with the space given... rhino-line the thing and hook it up!.. I'd love to see a vid

 

[jigsizzle 10+ year member]

Holyshit...there's a familiar name I haven't seen for awhile!! I did...something like 1st t-line enclosure build or close to it, in general audio section.

Yessir, been coming over here since caco been dead... And ok cool.. Great work man [emoji106][emoji106]
Sorry to thread jack op..

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[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

I pre-drill this way...

https://www.manmadediy.com/users/chris/posts/4593-i-ve-been-drilling-pilot-holes-wrong-my-entire-life-here-s-how-i-learned-to-correct-my-technique

I also make sure my bottom piece pilot hole is at the same depth as the screw to prevent splitting

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I pre-drill this way...

https://www.manmadediy.com/users/chris/posts/4593-i-ve-been-drilling-pilot-holes-wrong-my-entire-life-here-s-how-i-learned-to-correct-my-technique

Those 2 pieces of wood, w/o any screws in them and says This is a jacked screw, don't do this, is unmeaningful. Nowhere does it show if the wood cut is cut true to itself, checked with either a machinists square or carpenter square. Wood is sometimes naturally warped....that could also be a possiblity with that pic w/o anything holding it together. Once it's screwed, who cares.

For any reg course drywall screw, use a 3/32" drillbit.....anything smaller will be too tight into the wood, thus might break the screw or split wood. Bigger than that, it might become lose later on.