zigzags jeep grand cherokee build

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The port will want to be 8 or 10 inches away from walls to function properly. You can't just have your port 2" from the side of your cargo area and expect it to work.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

The port will want to be 8 or 10 inches away from walls to function properly. You can't just have your port 2" from the side of your cargo area and expect it to work.

ya i hear ya. i want to do port to the back on one side or port back on the bottom.

something like this:

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

^^^ this is how to orient a port to get loud

This is next best

Notice port comes out the side but is far enough away from side wall to breathe. I haven't had great results with port firing rear overall and you end up sacrificing a lot of volume to keep the box far enough away from the lift gate.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

[quote name='hispls']port comes out the side but is far enough away from side wall to breathe. I haven't had great results with port firing rear overall and you end up sacrificing a lot of volume to keep the box far enough away from the lift gate.[/QUOTE]

@hispls thanks for all the advice man. so u think ill have enough room to do 7 or 8 cubes with port firing to the side like that?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

thanks for all the advice man. so u think ill have enough room to do 7 or 8 cubes with port firing to the side like that?

Not if you want to keep it below the window line. This one was just about 6 after displacement and was tight to the back wall and only a couple inches to the seat back (amps mounted to seat back)

This was the best sounding box I've made to date, but not particularly impressive on the meter. This is @ 8.5 cube net. It comes up about 22 or 23" off the floor though (which is 4-5" above the window line IIRC).

I could show you as many pictures of boxes that were a total failure too....let me have wasted the wood for you.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

Not if you want to keep it below the window line. This one was just about 6 after displacement and was tight to the back wall and only a couple inches to the seat back (amps mounted to seat back)
This was the best sounding box I've made to date, but not particularly impressive on the meter. This is @ 8.5 cube net. It comes up about 22 or 23" off the floor though (which is 4-5" above the window line IIRC).

I could show you as many pictures of boxes that were a total failure too....let me have wasted the wood for you.

what vehicle is that in? so in ur opinion what would be the best box in you opinion to do for most output and still have decent sound quality?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

what vehicle is that in? so in ur opinion what would be the best box in you opinion to do for most output and still have decent sound quality?

97 Grand Cherokee. LOL. I'm on the fence myself about what to do for my next build. The one I liked with everything firing up I left out in the yard and the port fell apart (sono tube is great for box building but not waterproof!) and I'm leaning towards re-building that. You should get a peak @ 54-57hz depending on the day (cabin gain). Really that seems to be good sounding and most efficient use of space BUT if you care about being on a meter, one that ports out the side with subs up will be best (you angle it to fire port at the corner when burping to gain a little more).

Subs and port forward is absolute crap, subs and port back is crap, subs firing to either side and port up is pretty good (also efficient use of space). I know Jacob at Sundown has sub up port back in his jeep, but it is pulled quite a bit forward (seats laid down for this), and personally I haven't had much luck firing ports back (especially compared to into a corner or out the side).

SO I'd say subs up and port to the side IF you can get enough volume while keeping enough space in front of the port, if you need more space, settle for subs and port up which will sound nice. If you care about SPL numbers you MUST port out the side if you want to keep everything behind the back seats, in which case you'll need to sacrifice volume or use less cone area.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

97 Grand Cherokee. LOL. I'm on the fence myself about what to do for my next build. The one I liked with everything firing up I left out in the yard and the port fell apart (sono tube is great for box building but not waterproof!) and I'm leaning towards re-building that. You should get a peak @ 54-57hz depending on the day (cabin gain). Really that seems to be good sounding and most efficient use of space BUT if you care about being on a meter, one that ports out the side with subs up will be best (you angle it to fire port at the corner when burping to gain a little more).

Subs and port forward is absolute crap, subs and port back is crap, subs firing to either side and port up is pretty good (also efficient use of space). I know Jacob at Sundown has sub up port back in his jeep, but it is pulled quite a bit forward (seats laid down for this), and personally I haven't had much luck firing ports back (especially compared to into a corner or out the side).

SO I'd say subs up and port to the side IF you can get enough volume while keeping enough space in front of the port, if you need more space, settle for subs and port up which will sound nice. If you care about SPL numbers you MUST port out the side if you want to keep everything behind the back seats, in which case you'll need to sacrifice volume or use less cone area.

well im gonna try and make port to the side happen how many inches should u give the port from the side of the jeep?

 

[Dr. Slam 10+ year member]

Im pulling my Nightshade 15s from my buick and putting them in my Grand Cherokee. So im in for box tips as well.

This thread has been very helpful and informative.

Appreciate the info Hispls and keep up the good work Zigzag

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

well im gonna try and make port to the side happen how many inches should u give the port from the side of the jeep?

Conventional wisdom is at least a port width away from the wall. All my boxes with port out the side have left 8 to 10" between box and side wall. If you are only a port width from the wall it can act to extend your port and lower tuning, which can be good, but it's nothing you can plan around with out building a few boxes to test, if you crowd a port too close to a wall it will begin to behave like a leaky sealed box (bad).

I know yours is a slightly different model so you can plan around the contours in the side walls to allow a little more breathing room for the port. In mine I have slightly more space where the spare tire was so most of my boxes fire to the driver's side. The one pictured above with the duct tape all over it was my loudest on the meter and trough a lot of testing that precise angle was best, though generally anywhere into the passanger side corner was a gain over other aiming strategies.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

got my mids in this moirning. will probably install this weekend. i have to file another claim threw usps since on of the mids were screwed again. but one of the new ones are good and one of the old ones are good so i have one good set out of 2 sets.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

got the mids installed today. had to make a baffle cuz the frounts originally had 6x9s, so put a few coats of paint on the baffles. everything turned out good and they sound awesome!

my helper quit on me lol

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

very nice doug

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Slightly different door panels on yours. My mids are quite a bit lower and stock 6.5" though I needed to cut rings as well for depth issues.

Built a new box last week, works pretty well, 6 cube net tuned @ 36hz and would stay below the window line if I didn't have amps and batteries under it. Also I got the whole thing out of a single sheet of wood. Works well for pair of 12's, OK for single 18, though my 18 wants to tune higher and probaby wants a bit larger box.

Still tuned in.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

Slightly different door panels on yours. My mids are quite a bit lower and stock 6.5" though I needed to cut rings as well for depth issues.
Built a new box last week, works pretty well, 6 cube net tuned @ 36hz and would stay below the window line if I didn't have amps and batteries under it. Also I got the whole thing out of a single sheet of wood. Works well for pair of 12's, OK for single 18, though my 18 wants to tune higher and probaby wants a bit larger box.

Still tuned in.

ya i like the 6.5s way better then the 6x9s, the 6.5 sounds so good and have about the same level of bass as the 6x9s. and i also would have need a baffle anyways since these mids at **** near 3 inches deep and wouldnt allow the window to roll down all the way otherwise.

im not to sure what im going to do as for upgrading woofers im kinda thinking about going with 18s, i was talking to ram and i have enough room for 14 cubes if i use areo ports and use up as much space as possible in the back. but its a toss up betweens the 15s and 18s. i would kinda like to keep it below the window and not have a huge *** box in the back, but i want to get LOUD lol.