WTf, Boston Pro60's ****

[60ndown 10+ year member]

maybe turn the sub amp down a lil? then when volume is increased comp amp will keep up? perhaps the sensitivity/gain increase of the 2 amps is different? sub amp gets way loud before component amp is even cruiseing?

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

are you sure the gain is set right?

the midbass will get a little nasty on 80hz, so i just crossed them at 100hz and went with that

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

Anyone know what xover frequency is used on the Boston set for tweet and mid?

Theres a hardness in the upper midrange that comes across a little harsh when you pile on some volume. Trying to help a friend tune ...

 

[PollyCranopolis 10+ year member]

Don't know about the Pro's, but I recently bought a set of SL60's, which are a step below. I must say I was really disapointed in the performance. My CDT CL61A's, abosolutley devastate these Bostons as far as midbass response. I had to put the Bostons in the back for rear fill, set the crossover to 125hz, and turn the gain halfway down. Setting anything diffrent makes the mids distort terribly, and sound like popcorn popping. Considering the Boston passive dwarfs the CDT's in size, and the tweet isnt near as smooth makes me really question BA. Not to mention I've never had more trouble installing tweeters in my life.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

you should try to bi-amp them...?? see its reviews like these that made me go with the MB's...even though I still think the Bostons have to get louder from what ive heard. these MB's really dont cut it for what they are worth

 

[headless 10+ year member]

*hugs his germaniums*

Am i the only one around here who's totally happy with their purchase? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif hehehe

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

ok guy, im tryin to troubleshoot these **** things slowly. heres what ive come up with. ive checked the polarity, and all speakers are wired in phase. so thats not it. but i think i may have stumbled on to something here.

ok when i set up my amp i set it up to 25 volts on each channel, abot 208 watts for each one. anyways when i turn it up the speakers pull WAYYY to the right side of the car. im thinking ok well thats just a timing issue and i should adjust time correction or something. so i go to sit in the passanger seat and now the speaker pulls even more to the right side. so im like "what the ****". i go back to adjust my gains. in order for me to get a slight pull to the left when in the drivers seat, and a slight pull to the right in the passanger seat i have to set my gains like this

left channel: 30 volts which is equal to 300 watts

right channel: 22 volts which is equal to 161 watts

hmmm, now why the **** is that? you think i got a defective left speaker? or maybe the crossover is no good on the left side? what could cause this, i checked my ohm load on both loads (including crossovers and tweeters) and final load came out to be 3.3 ohms on each speakers so they are even. what could be causing this? i know my amp isnt ****ed up cause i tried with an orion 8002 and it does the same thing. also i had my cd player fixed recently so you think that could be it? i doubt it cause the clip indicators on the amp light up at about 24 volts and 24.5 on the other channel so the preouts to me, seem fine. PLEASE SOMEONE SMARTER THAN ME HELP!!!

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

bump

btw, you think this could be cause by old, bad RCA cables? or does it sound more like its the preouts on the cd player? remember i just got my alpine fixed, since its an old model, and all they fixed was the printed circuit board...is this a common problem maybe? also how do you test preouts with a dmm?

 

[Kickerkitty 10+ year member]

That's a really strange problem, not sure I've heard of anything like that before....

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

That's a really strange problem, not sure I've heard of anything like that before....

honestly, this is so frustrating and it feels like i just wasted so much money on this ****. i just want a working fcuking system again. it just makes me want to scrap my whole car buy a new one and start completly the hell over. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

 

[60ndown 10+ year member]

try reverseing the rca, if the louder channel switches sides its NOT the speakers.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

try reverseing the rca, if the louder channel switches sides its NOT the speakers.

will do. is there anyway to check rcas with a dmm as well? this is just frustrating because all the stuff is under warranty nd i dont know which is the problem. by the time i figure it out, everything will be out of warranty.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

left channel: 30 volts which is equal to 300 watts
right channel: 22 volts which is equal to 161 watts

Bad RCAs can't cause this problem. Thnk about it, you're getting that power from the amp. That means that the problem is downrange from the amp. I has to be either the speakers, the crossover, or the install.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Bad RCAs can't cause this problem. Thnk about it, you're getting that power from the amp. That means that the problem is downrange from the amp. I has to be either the speakers, the crossover, or the install.

well ichecked my install and everything seems fine. all the wires are good and everything is wired correctly. speakers are mounted firmly and all that. now you say, its either the crossovers or the speakers.

i checked my load going from the speakers+crossovers+tweeters to the amp (actually from the amp, but whatever). ipulled the wires from the amp and checked the left channel and i get 3.3ohms, and then i check the right channel and get 3.3ohms...this would suggest the speakers and crossovers are good no??

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

i checked my load going from the speakers+crossovers+tweeters to the amp (actually from the amp, but whatever). ipulled the wires from the amp and checked the left channel and i get 3.3ohms, and then i check the right channel and get 3.3ohms...this would suggest the speakers and crossovers are good no??

That tells you the Re of the total load, not the impedance characteristics. Nor does it tell you if there is a bad component in the crossover. Try this to see what I mean. Disconnect either the woofer or the tweet from the crossover and test it as above. You'll probably get the same value or really close to it.

Physically swap the speakers left and right and see what happens.