would this vented enclosure design work for a 10w7

Ok so here we go again with a new design as you suggested using 3/4" wood all around. The port is 12"Hx1.5wx28" based on ~1.5 cu ft volume this would give me ~32hz

How do you suggest a brace a box like this? little 1/2" dowls along the front and rear baffles? I'm guessing dowls inside the port would not be a good idea cause it'll probably whistle so what do I do with the rears?
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You don't need to brace inside the port. As far as the rest of the box I like window braces(looks kind of like a plus sign). Or what I did for my last builds - Basically cut and extra piece like you are going to divide the box. Then cut out the center. You can see what I have done on my last two boxes at my FB Page: DB Designs | Facebook.

Sorry if my answers have been short, I am trying to prepare for 2 midterms tomorrow.

 
no problem on the short answer, you've been very helpful. I'm going to try to brace it where I could without altering the overall dimension too much. perhaps I can add polyfill to make up the difference to see if it helps. I'm going to start my build tomorrow and for sure will take photos.

 
So I competed the build today. With my amp left at the same setting as it was in my sealed box I just hooked it up for a quick test. It's late here so I can really mess with the amp but right out of the box, I noticed that it's lacking the pushiness it had in the sealed box. Would this be something that need to be adjusted on the xover? It's gonna be a b1tch for me since I'm taking the signal from my stock sub which already has xover.

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You are fast! Sealed boxes are known to be "punchy". While ported are much louder. I personally think this has more to do with the frequency response differences between the two than anything. The punch is higher in frequency, so you hear it more when the bass is flat. Ported boxes - with cabin gain tend to have an overpowering low end, making them sound fat, loose, etc.

 
No, that will have a different tuning. Also, as a general rule, you want less than an 1:8 width to height ratio for the port. What tuning and box size do they recommend?
Sorry, I hate it when people don't explain why something is wrong, or how to fix it. So what you need to look at is the area of the port. As long as you keep that the same, and the length of the port and volume of the box don't change, tuning will stay the same. Or at least close enough. But a really skinny port won't work well, hence the 1:8 ratio limit.

If you want to know more about designing boxes, and how changing the port affects your design, go to Facebook and search for WinISD. It is a free box design program.
VERY IMPORTANT to reduce resonances that are unneeded. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Well, it's official that I don't like the sound of a ported box. It sounds twice as loud and rattle the crap out of my car but I'm missing a few notes on some of the songs I listen too. I think I may end up just building another sealed box and upping the amp to a 750hd or 1000/1

 
The specs of the design you built is likely incorrect with the proper operation of the driver used. It is best to have one of us do the design for you. I would be interested to show you what a ported box is capable of given the right specifications if interested for a low price on a design. Visit my website for more information Welcome to Mobile Enclosures! - Mobile Enclosures - Custom subwoofer boxes.

 
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