would this vented enclosure design work for a 10w7

dannieboiz
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So I've built a few sealed enclosure with success. i wanna try to build a vented box for the 10w7. I took the specs from JL and modified it to fit the dimension that fit my trunk. Do you think this would work for a single 10w7?

JL recommended the slot to be 12"hx22"Lx1.5"w

The vent I came up is 34.5hx7.75'Lx1.5"w i know it's didn't measure out to match the JL specs 100% but would it work?

ventboxdesignw7s550.jpg


 
No, that will have a different tuning. Also, as a general rule, you want less than an 1:8 width to height ratio for the port. What tuning and box size do they recommend?

Sorry, I hate it when people don't explain why something is wrong, or how to fix it. So what you need to look at is the area of the port. As long as you keep that the same, and the length of the port and volume of the box don't change, tuning will stay the same. Or at least close enough. But a really skinny port won't work well, hence the 1:8 ratio limit.

If you want to know more about designing boxes, and how changing the port affects your design, go to Facebook and search for WinISD. It is a free box design program.

 
WTH: I posted a reply to this thread last night and it's saying that the mods need to confirm. It's been all night lemme try again.

Below is what JL recommends. I have a max 36x13x11 space to work with but if I can have a 35x12x10 box it would be better.

Wall Thickness 0.75 in / 19 mm

Front Baffle Thickness 1.0 in / 25 mm

Volume (net int.) 1.5 cu ft / 42.5 L

External Width (W) 23.25 in / 591 mm

External Height (H) 13.5 in / 343 mm

External Depth (D) 14.5 in / 368 mm

Internal Slot Port Width (SW) 1.5 in / 38 mm

Internal Slot Port Height (SH) 12 in / 305 mm

Internal Slot Port Depth (SD) 22.5 in / 572 mm

Port Extension Length (EL) 7.25 in / 184 mm

Tune to 35.33 Hz

F3 32 Hz

you can see the enclosure here

http://www.jlaudio.com/10w7ae-3-car-audio-w7ae-subwoofer-drivers-92114#

 
I just did a 2nd measure.

Max external dimension I can have is 36Lx14Hx11d.

To make it easier for me to work with. If we can keep it 35Lx14Hx10d. this would give me wiggle room for wiring.

The trunk is relatively big but I have a lot of compartment under the trunk that I'm trying to retain and especially the spare tire.

with the given space, do you think I can effectively build a slotted enclosure? I like it loud but would still like to retain as much SQ as possible. Any other sub I can't say but from all that I've been seeing, everyone seems to favor the JL HO boxes with these subs so I'm trying to achieve that result.

 
If you can calculate volume, you can do this on your own. Make the port to spec. put it at one end of the box. box h=13.5", port h=12, port width=1.5, and length 22", the length is more than the depth of the box so it will need one corner. Measure down the center of the port for total length. Make sure you put a 45 in the corner to keep the port about the same width. Adjust the width of the box to get the correct box volume, after you subtract the volume used up by the port and sub.

 
When calculating volume on a slot box, I mix all the baffle inside that makes up the slots right? So starting from the last baffle to the other end is where the total volume is right?

Also, how thin can I go on the baffles for the slots inside?

 
No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't build that!
If you need help designing one or need a design I can help you out.
I don't have time to get into a design this weekend. Could you do a show and tell for the op as to why a different design would be better? Not a design, just how your design would be better than the JL HO box.

 
When calculating volume on a slot box, I mix all the baffle inside that makes up the slots right? So starting from the last baffle to the other end is where the total volume is right?
Also, how thin can I go on the baffles for the slots inside?
Use inside dimensions. The port doesn't count in your total. See what buck can tell you also. One size does not fit all - cars, or music.

 
I think I got your idea. Here's the new design that would yield me 1.52 cu ft with the port very close to what JL recommends. How does that look? The dimension is all inside measurements add the thickness of 1" front and .75" sides and rear it would be a perfect fit.

subboxv2.jpg


 
Try making a L shaped port, so it will go in the front like your drawing but just turn right, using the back of the box as a side of the port. That way you only have one turn in the port.

 
Try making a L shaped port, so it will go in the front like your drawing but just turn right, using the back of the box as a side of the port. That way you only have one turn in the port.
is there a pro and con in my current design vs changing it to an L shape port besides one less piece to worry about? based on an online port tune calculator what I have now would give me right around 31.9hz on the port which is perfect.

btw: with this design I still have room to brace the middle. 34" is a pretty long run

One more question. JL recommend 1" front but if I went with 3/4" all around I can fit all the pieces on a single 4x4 piece of MDF do you see a problem with this?

 
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is there a pro and con in my current design vs changing it to an L shape port besides one less piece to worry about? based on an online port tune calculator what I have now would give me right around 31.9hz on the port which is perfect.
btw: with this design I still have room to brace the middle. 34" is a pretty long run

One more question. JL recommend 1" front but if I went with 3/4" all around I can fit all the pieces on a single 4x4 piece of MDF do you see a problem with this?
Air flows through the port. The more corners the more resistance and turbulence. The port will be less effective and have more port noise. I don't know if it will make enough difference to be noticed.

You need to put an angled piece on the corners of the port so it will stay the same size around the corners.

 
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