Wiring 3 batteries?

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MADN00BIE

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Can anyone tell me if this will work? I did a big 3 upgrade and ran two 0 gauge wires to the back and got 2 new batteries.

My sub amp is powering off battery 3 my highs amp is running off battery 1. I was going to wire it something like this

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or this one

o01eys.png


..

 
all batterys are grounded to the frame ? no negative copper 1/0 run from battery #2 to battery #1 ?

if each battery is grounded individualy from eachother then each ground point is at risk of becoming less than ideal and allowing that perticular battery to function at a lesser value than the others - but jumping the negative side of the batterys in the same way you wire the positive side will allow all 3 batterys to perform at the same level with out the fear of ground being the weakest link.

your cars alternator produces both positive and negative electrical energy that gets sent on its propper path - obviously everyone knows about how the positive flow works - but the negative flow is just as important to complete the loop and hardly anyone looks at that the same way as the runs of + wire.

 
all batterys are grounded to the frame ? no negative copper 1/0 run from battery #2 to battery #1 ?
if each battery is grounded individualy from eachother then each ground point is at risk of becoming less than ideal and allowing that perticular battery to function at a lesser value than the others - but jumping the negative side of the batterys in the same way you wire the positive side will allow all 3 batterys to perform at the same level with out the fear of ground being the weakest link.

your cars alternator produces both positive and negative electrical energy that gets sent on its propper path - obviously everyone knows about how the positive flow works - but the negative flow is just as important to complete the loop and hardly anyone looks at that the same way as the runs of + wire.


ya i was thinking the same thing.

i have all my batterys wired together both + and - . then i ran 2- wires ( end battery and middle battery ) from my bank to my frame at the same spot. im running 7 batterys in the back and 1 in front.

 
Battery 2 and 3 need to be PARALLELED together.

Also, all amplifiers need to then be wired as follows-

Power to batt 2, ground to batt 3.

 
I thought you never want a ground over 1 foot? I have 50 feet of wire left I could run ground. but I'm running out of room on on the firewall and the wire I'm using is really big 4/0 from HERE nevertheless I do have the wire but was told you never want a groung more then a foot.

 
You were told wrong.

Also, jesus that wire is expensive.

4/0 can be had for less than $4/ft all day everyday.

You need to parallel those 2 batts together, keep em grounded to the frame and run a dedicated ground from front to rear.

Do you like using copper or steel wire?

I would assume copper.

This is why front to rear ground is important but should not be the only ground due to resistance.

That's why grounding to frame is also preferred.

IF your vehicle used a positive ground, then we'd be doing the same thing with the power cables instead of the ground cables.

 
so this is what I want then?

2d7x99z.png


On a side note some guy down here went nuts on that wire and I got it from him for $3 a foot that why I went all 4/0

when I'm all done I'll have 3 amps 2 GP3000D-Pro 3000 watt amps pushing 3 sundown audio Zv4's

one 5-Channel amp. and yes I try to stick with OFC wire

 
that looks like it suppose to. That front to rear wiring scheme should be good for up to 1 large high output alternator.

 
Biggest and best alternator I could find was a 240AMP. I'm trying to find someone to make me a bracket for a 2nd one but no luck so far. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
no harm in over building / engineering your parts to work at their most optimum level.

shure you could build it using the most minimalistic aproach and see if it works or not - but why if you have the ability to go full tilt and build slightly more than whats needed to handle the load - then parts wont have to work at 100% level all the time to achieve the same or better output than minimalist aproach.

 
no harm in over building / engineering your parts to work at their most optimum level.
shure you could build it using the most minimalistic aproach and see if it works or not - but why if you have the ability to go full tilt and build slightly more than whats needed to handle the load - then parts wont have to work at 100% level all the time to achieve the same or better output than minimalist aproach.
thats a good point.

and that how i try and do it. because i know im going bigger so why not do what you can now.

but thats me as some dont plan on upgrade so they may not need 10 runs of wire lol ..

right now im running 3 of each 1/0,, 8 total batterys,, 2 h/o alts. going to be running 3.

 
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MADN00BIE

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