Will I need a signal processor with an Alpine MRV-V500 in my 2013 Chevy Volt?

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

Hi guys,

I have a 2013 Chevy Volt with the factory Bose system. As you could have guessed it's not very good. I have tracked down all of the wiring harness adapters for all 3 factory plugs that go to the Bose amp so I don't have to cut anything. The head unit feeds 4 line level full range outputs to the Bose amp which splits it into 7 speaker level outputs F L+R Tweeters, F L+R Speakers, R L+R speakers, Sub.

I plan on eliminating the Bose amp completely and running the 4 line level outputs from the factory radio to the Alpine MRV-V500 and using the 1+2+3+4 switch on the amp to get the sub output.

I have already installed Tymphany NE19VTS-04 Tweeters in the front pillars and plan on using Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofers in all 4 doors. Still have to figure out a crossover for the tweeters as well because all they currently have is a single cap that cuts them at about 3k. I also plan on building a custom sealed subwoofer enclosure for an 8 inch subwoofer that will fit in the factory subwoofer location.

My question is since my current head unit outputs 4 full range line level channels to the amp is there any reason to get a signal processor of some sort? It seems like lots of signal processors are taking speaker level inputs and converting them to line level which wouldn't work in this application. If I do need one I am not really sure what I should get.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Hi guys,
I have a 2013 Chevy Volt with the factory Bose system. As you could have guessed it's not very good. I have tracked down all of the wiring harness adapters for all 3 factory plugs that go to the Bose amp so I don't have to cut anything. The head unit feeds 4 line level full range outputs to the Bose amp which splits it into 7 speaker level outputs F L+R Tweeters, F L+R Speakers, R L+R speakers, Sub.

I plan on eliminating the Bose amp completely and running the 4 line level outputs from the factory radio to the Alpine MRV-V500 and using the 1+2+3+4 switch on the amp to get the sub output.

I have already installed Tymphany NE19VTS-04 Tweeters in the front pillars and plan on using Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofers in all 4 doors. Still have to figure out a crossover for the tweeters as well because all they currently have is a single cap that cuts them at about 3k. I also plan on building a custom sealed subwoofer enclosure for an 8 inch subwoofer that will fit in the factory subwoofer location.

My question is since my current head unit outputs 4 full range line level channels to the amp is there any reason to get a signal processor of some sort? It seems like lots of signal processors are taking speaker level inputs and converting them to line level which wouldn't work in this application. If I do need one I am not really sure what I should get.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

you have every reason to get a DSP. Your signal is full range but its completely subjected to the factory's EQ curve (that they use to compensate for sh*t quality speakers, yes bose is sh*t quality speakers, they rely on heavy EQ processing and psychoacoustics to achieve their sound signature while cheaping out on drivers.

Now you put that fked up EQ to aftermarket speakers that were designed to have a flat signal going to them but get this fked up EQ instead. See how that sounds like. You also have absolutely ZERO tuning capabilities with your stock head unit and the tune is literally the most important thing to having any kind of acceptable sound quality. Literally what you are doing, you need active network crossovers that you can change at a whim. Random crossover points on passives dont just magically work with your vehicle acoustics and driver choices, its literally trying to win the lottery but end up settling for sh*t to mediocre results to replacing everything and redoing everything.

Source processing and tune is the most important aspect of car audio. Install, acoustical door and interior treatments are a close 2nd. Speaker, amp brand and all that nonsense is way down the tier.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

When doing factory integration the answer is always yes. But you have to understand how to use it or you can mess it up bad.

 

[colinmustlift]

i have a 2017 chevy ss. i tapped into what sounds like the exact same 3 connections to the factory bose amp (which has been removed). anyhow, for my vehicle i don't need any processing, the signal from the head unit is clean and unprocessed, all of that was done at the factory amp.

If i were you i'd test the signal, or find someone who has, from the head unit to see if you need one or not. my guess is you don't.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

i have a 2017 chevy ss. i tapped into what sounds like the exact same 3 connections to the factory bose amp (which has been removed). anyhow, for my vehicle i don't need any processing, the signal from the head unit is clean and unprocessed, all of that was done at the factory amp.
If i were you i'd test the signal, or find someone who has, from the head unit to see if you need one or not. my guess is you don't.

You need it. You just don’t know you need it.

 

[colinmustlift]

You need it. You just don’t know you need it.

so you are certain that OP's car, and mine for that matter, don't have flat signals from the factory head unit? how do you know this?

i understand that many or most factory head units will have the processing done prior to the signal from the head unit, but are you so sure that it applies to all, and mine in particular?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

so you are certain that OP's car, and mine for that matter, don't have flat signals from the factory head unit? how do you know this?
i understand that many or most factory head units will have the processing done prior to the signal from the head unit, but are you so sure that it applies to all, and mine in particular?

What are you using to EQ and set delays?

 

[colinmustlift]

What are you using to EQ and set delays?

Tuning is done (now anyhow) just the limited bass/treble/mid adjustment on the head unit and the cross overs on the amp (they have notches so there is less guess work). I'm not saying it's the ultimate in sound quality or flexibility, but it's not jacked up from the head unit (all of that is done at the factory amp).

 

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

i have a 2017 chevy ss. i tapped into what sounds like the exact same 3 connections to the factory bose amp (which has been removed). anyhow, for my vehicle i don't need any processing, the signal from the head unit is clean and unprocessed, all of that was done at the factory amp.
If i were you i'd test the signal, or find someone who has, from the head unit to see if you need one or not. my guess is you don't.

The Volt and the SS have the same amp connectors. I actually found most of the info on how to build the harnesses on the SS forum. There are lots of people who have done the amp removal on the volt forums but they cut the plugs and that's not something I want to do. I'm going to do a full write up on it on the Volt forums once I get it all done. Anyways I have heard the same about the Volt.... That the audio coming out of the factory head unit is a flat signal and all of the eq is done in the Bose amp. I'm sure with out a processor it does sound good and better than stock but I like to do things right so I figured I would probably still use a signal processor and to some other people's points there is delay needed etc if you want to get it right. Also even if the EQ of the factory head unit is flat you still have to compensate for the speakers and how they react to the car's acoustics.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Tuning is done (now anyhow) just the limited bass/treble/mid adjustment on the head unit and the cross overs on the amp (they have notches so there is less guess work). I'm not saying it's the ultimate in sound quality or flexibility, but it's not jacked up from the head unit (all of that is done at the factory amp).

yeah you really dont know why you would need anything in a DSP... Just because it sounds good enough to you doesnt mean there's a night and day difference to be had with a DSP. Some people arent going for good enough... Some people actually want something Quality sounding with actual soundstage. Loud and clean is beyond basic. Meanwhile soundstage, realism, smoothness and having everything sound natural even at high outputs is how you graduate from basic car audio to something worth listening to. This is not for some competition sh*t, this is just for daily enjoyment. Its a different crowd from the average joe that just wants a signal to get his gear to work and make things louder and get some bass.

 

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

Okay so what DSP unit would work well in my situation? Whatever I use would have to be fairly small because I don't have a ton of room to work with so keep that in mind. I would prefer not to spend more than $300 on it but if I have to spend more I would consider it.

 

[colinmustlift]

yeah you really dont know why you would need anything in a DSP... Just because it sounds good enough to you doesnt mean there's a night and day difference to be had with a DSP. Some people arent going for good enough... Some people actually want something Quality sounding with actual soundstage. Loud and clean is beyond basic. Meanwhile soundstage, realism, smoothness and having everything sound natural even at high outputs is how you graduate from basic car audio to something worth listening to. This is not for some competition sh*t, this is just for daily enjoyment. Its a different crowd from the average joe that just wants a signal to get his gear to work and make things louder and get some bass.

I get that you are one of the forum BSD's and know a lot (I actually mean that, i've learned a lot reading your posts), and I also get that proper tuning is important, and hard, and requires specialized equipment and know how, but the fact of the matter is your statement above about how the factor head unit applies a goofy EQ to the signal that needs to be flattened just isn't true for my car, and I suspect for a few Bose Chevy cars, including OPs.

There is also the issue (which is why I don't have my car DSP'd) of tuning and calibrating the thing, which takes time and learning and trial and error and such. Nothing wrong with getting a good enough set up done and listening to it for a while and after the fact processing and tuning it, rather than trying to do it all at once.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Okay so what DSP unit would work well in my situation? Whatever I use would have to be fairly small because I don't have a ton of room to work with so keep that in mind. I would prefer not to spend more than $300 on it but if I have to spend more I would consider it.

not much good ones are under 300. You have mini dsp, and the rockford dsr1(if you can deal with all the bugs it comes with)

 

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

not much good ones are under 300. You have mini dsp, and the rockford dsr1(if you can deal with all the bugs it comes with)

I was actually just looking at the DSR1 on the Rockford website. I think that would be a decent option. What kind of bugs does it have? I will take a look around and see if I can find more information on it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I was actually just looking at the DSR1 on the Rockford website. I think that would be a decent option. What kind of bugs does it have? I will take a look around and see if I can find more information on it.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/head-unit-reviews/634443-dsr-1-review-love-hate-relationship.html

AKA the sh*t posting thread about it. We give it a lot of sh*t but in the end, I'd still use it haahhaa. It makes a good difference in SQ.