Will I need a signal processor with an Alpine MRV-V500 in my 2013 Chevy Volt?

[mikedeezxxx]

Is the Audison Bit ten sound processor any good?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Is the Audison Bit ten sound processor any good?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Hertz H8 is more updated.

The DSR is a good concept but it’s built off the buggy 360.

If you are bypassing the bose amp the mini DSP is fine. If you are not you need something with input EQ like the Audison or Hertz.

 

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/head-unit-reviews/634443-dsr-1-review-love-hate-relationship.html
AKA the sh*t posting thread about it. We give it a lot of sh*t but in the end, I'd still use it haahhaa. It makes a good difference in SQ.

Cool thanks for the info. I don't mind messing around with it. Seems like it should do the job and is fairy inexpensive. The only thing I am concerned about now is a crossover for the midbass speakers. Since the Alpine is 5 channel I'm going to have to lump the front tweeters and the front midbass speakers together. The tweeters already have caps on them that cut around 2.5k which is the bottom end of the frequency for those tweeters. Seems like unless I get an amp with 2 more channels I am going to have to either use in line passive crossovers for the midbass or I'm going to have to run a separate active crossover unit which I don't really have the space for.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Cool thanks for the info. I don't mind messing around with it. Seems like it should do the job and is fairy inexpensive. The only thing I am concerned about now is a crossover for the midbass speakers. Since the Alpine is 5 channel I'm going to have to lump the front tweeters and the front midbass speakers together. The tweeters already have caps on them that cut around 2.5k which is the bottom end of the frequency for those tweeters. Seems like unless I get an amp with 2 more channels I am going to have to either use in line passive crossovers for the midbass or I'm going to have to run a separate active crossover unit which I don't really have the space for.

you dont need any crossover caps or anything related to the sort with the DSR1 as a processor. You have 8 channels of output and each channel has bandpass capable crossovers selectable anywhere from 20hz to 20,000hz with slope options from -6 db to -48db. I'd take everything off any factory crossovers as well. They are all massively inferior to the DSR1's crossovers.

You do know that the DSR1 has everything related to crossovers, EQ, time correction and individual level control you'll ever need and more right? Also you dont need rears at all. Put all the power to front tweeter and midbass giving them their own channels. Any power or focus to the rears is a complete waste of time and money and power. Leave them stock on factory amp power. Dont cut the harness for signal, just tap into it.

 

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

you dont need any crossover caps or anything related to the sort with the DSR1 as a processor. You have 8 channels of output and each channel has bandpass capable crossovers selectable anywhere from 20hz to 20,000hz with slope options from -6 db to -48db. I'd take everything off any factory crossovers as well. They are all massively inferior to the DSR1's crossovers.
You do know that the DSR1 has everything related to crossovers, EQ, time correction and individual level control you'll ever need and more right? Also you dont need rears at all. Put all the power to front tweeter and midbass giving them their own channels. Any power or focus to the rears is a complete waste of time and money and power. Leave them stock on factory amp power. Dont cut the harness for signal, just tap into it.

I've been reading up on what the DSR1 does. Sounds like its exactly what I am looking for. I don't have a whole lot of space so it looks like a 6 channel amp and a dedicated subwoofer amp is out of the question. There's also really no way to keep the factory amp with the way I was going to do the wiring. I am not willing to splice into or cut any wires in the car. I have built a 100% plug and play factory integration harness that completely bypasses the stock amp and sub. From what I can tell the rear speakers of my car are actually 4 ohms. With that being said would it be a bad idea to run the 4 channels of the alpine just for the fronts and then get some kind of a small low power 2 channel amp for the rears? Maybe something like this? https://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-aa-ab32189-2x100w-tda7498-class-d-amplifier-board--320-303

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I've been reading up on what the DSR1 does. Sounds like its exactly what I am looking for. I don't have a whole lot of space so it looks like a 6 channel amp and a dedicated subwoofer amp is out of the question. There's also really no way to keep the factory amp with the way I was going to do the wiring. I am not willing to splice into or cut any wires in the car. I have built a 100% plug and play factory integration harness that completely bypasses the stock amp and sub. From what I can tell the rear speakers of my car are actually 4 ohms. With that being said would it be a bad idea to run the 4 channels of the alpine just for the fronts and then get some kind of a small low power 2 channel amp for the rears? Maybe something like this? https://www.parts-express.com/sure-electronics-aa-ab32189-2x100w-tda7498-class-d-amplifier-board--320-303

again i'd ditch the rears completely and get A LOT of power to the front. Done right you'll sound extremely clean having perfect soundstage while being heard several football fields away. If you can be heard football fields away, your rear passengers will definitely be able to hear it. Any kind of rear speakers without actual 5.1 dolby upmixing with a processor that can handle that aka anything above 600$ will pull your soundstage to the rear and destroy your soundstage. Its generally a bad idea to do any kind of rear speakers in all top level SQ cars.

That amp is not meant for any kind of car operation/usage. You need 12 volt amp not 36vots

 

[killeraxemannic 10+ year member]

again i'd ditch the rears completely and get A LOT of power to the front. Done right you'll sound extremely clean having perfect soundstage while being heard several football fields away. If you can be heard football fields away, your rear passengers will definitely be able to hear it. Any kind of rear speakers without actual 5.1 dolby upmixing with a processor that can handle that aka anything above 600$ will pull your soundstage to the rear and destroy your soundstage. Its generally a bad idea to do any kind of rear speakers in all top level SQ cars.
That amp is not meant for any kind of car operation/usage. You need 12 volt amp not 36vots

Ok thanks. I don't really ever have any passengers anyways. I don't mind ditching the rears if that's the best option. I don't want to go with too big of an amplifier for the fronts because I don't know what kind of effect it would have on the car and the charging system. It doesn't have an alternator it has a ACDC converter that's rated at 175A but I'm not sure how much abuse it can take or what else is pulling power from it. I also don't have very much room at all to mount anything. Maybe the Alpine MRV-F300 would be a better option for the fronts?