Why do people think large cars **** for systems?

B4 i decided 2 rebuild I was playing music in the upper 50's in a 94 B-body. that set up was comprised of 2 nightshade 18's in a 4thorder bandpass. B4 that I ran 4 DD3515's also in a 4thorder bandpass and bass race in the 50's. Getting loud is not a problem 4 caprices and impalas(91-96). Ford,lincons & mercs are a totally different story. I don't know what the deal is with those trunks

 
big cars = longer cable runs, more interior volume/more air to move, more deadener, more gas, higher insurance, etc...Plus those beefers usually ARE trunk cars and rattle like $hit cuz the naggerz that mod them spend more money on chrome than SPL
I get decent gas mileage and my insurance is not expensive. I didn't need longer wiring either. I did fine with 17ft RCAs and an "amp install" kit from Knukonceptz. On top of all that, my car doesn't rattle badly either. A bit of sound deadening on the trunk lid and floor did the job. Oh yeah, and my car came stock with a bunch of chrome. So how about before you decide to be an idiot, you get your facts straight.

 
Vehicles that are good for a REALLY LOUD stereo are SUVs, wagons and hatchbacks because the sub is essentially in the cabin with you. The smaller the vehicle the better because it won't have as much air space to compress. Sedans can get loud but usually you'll need a lot more power and capable subs just to do the same decibels. Yes you can remove the rearseat and cut sheetmetal but that's a no no for some vehicles. For example...

My old car, 94 Golf GL, I hit 148.8dB on an AC mic with a pair of Pioneer Premier TS-W2000SPL in a custom ported box I made myself, a Crossfire CFA1000D and a deep cycle battery next to it. My score increased to 149.6dB with an USA-2000X but I ran out of voltage and didn't want to break the amp.

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My current car has two identical large batteries, two Recoil Red 1000.1s and two custom-built TC Sounds subwoofers, and I feel that it isn't as loud as the old Golf even though I haven't got it metered yet.

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^^^ The black rack that the white Cadence amp is mounted on is a rack for my car's relays, stability control and keyless entry system so that can't be removed unless I relocate all that ****, not to mention the center steel beam is part of my car's structure so I can't cut that either.

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Basically you should give a thumbs up if you see a really loud trunk car, because it is a lot more work.

 
The best way to do a loud trunk car is something like this that my friends and I did...

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^^^We built the box inside the car as it wouldn't fit through the trunk. When that car's engine threw a rod we ripped the front seats out and hammered the rear door opening until it was big enough to get it out. That was fun.

 
i got the trunk of a toyota corolla pretty **** loud 142 on music 2 15s in a sealed box w/ just 1 saz1500 at .5ohm all firing back

TL sealed on the dash btw

 
Wingman - I think trunk setups like that are a LOT easier to get loud in versus something like the Town Car or Crown Vic. I wish I could have my box right on my back seats like that. Stick a 17 gal tank between the seats and the box and tell me what you come up with. :p I do agree though, loud trunked cars all get a big thumbs up from me. I think I'm going to move to 4 12s. Hoping to do music easily in the 140s when I want.

 
I just think that the extra room would allow less limitations and restrictions. In the long term, I think they would be able to get louder.
You are under the false assumption that more=loud. It is much simpler to pressurize small volumes.

 
The hell was he thinking.
Maybe he got a good deal on them or had them laying around? Good thing people are psychic, eh? They all work fine and his **** bangs. Loudest towncar I've ever seen or heard. Now it's all in a Navigator.

 
Maybe he got a good deal on them or had them laying around? Good thing people are psychic, eh? They all work fine and his **** bangs. Loudest towncar I've ever seen or heard. Now it's all in a Navigator.
Im sure it bangs and all that, but the point is its not a good idea running different batt types in parallel like that. They no doubt have very different internal resistances. I have quite a few different batts around I got deals on. That doesn't mean Id run them in parallel with each other. Hell, serious SPL competitors go to great pains to ensure they get batts from the same manufacturing run to insure identical ages.

Im sure it works fine, but it would have worked better had he not used diff batts. Its a common mistake made by people who dont understand multi-batt setups very well.

 
I get decent gas mileage and my insurance is not expensive. I didn't need longer wiring either. I did fine with 17ft RCAs and an "amp install" kit from Knukonceptz. On top of all that, my car doesn't rattle badly either. A bit of sound deadening on the trunk lid and floor did the job. Oh yeah, and my car came stock with a bunch of chrome. So how about before you decide to be an idiot, you get your facts straight.
i read his posts all the time massive amounts of senseless bull and random capitalization

 
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