Speaker wire conundrum with modern cars.

[Red Dog]

Hi all,
Upgrading the system in my 2016 Kia Sportage (using equipment from previous car as I'm being tight and it still works fine).

Being a modern car it has a wiring harness between the door and cabin, not the old hole with a rubber grommet that we were able to thread new speaker wire through.
What are the options to get around this to retain using larger gauge wire from the amp to the speakers in the doors?

One option I have seen a video of is to drill a hole in the wiring harness to thread the larger wire through. I'm not a big fan of doing this but if it is the only option then it may have to be done.

Thanks
Red Dog

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

One option I have seen a video of is to drill a hole in the wiring harness to thread the larger wire through. I'm not a big fan of doing this but if it is the only option then it may have to be done.

I have seen some guys drill a hole on the metal to run their own loom.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I usually drill it, loom it, and grommet it too when going into the doors. Sometimes trying to use loom makes it almost impossible to do. in those instances electrical tape or Tesa tape the wire to/in parallel with existing runs usually does the trick. then make the new hole close to the other at both ends.

 

[Firewalker]

Or you use 9 wire wire from stinger or metra. You run it from the wiring harness that will plug into the aftermarket harness and it comes with a blue remote wire as well. It is about a inch in diameter and 18 gauge. Can handle 150 watts easily and runs through the OEM wiring which can handle that 100-150 watts easily enough. On my 2003 Explorer and a couple others I've used it and works great and added bonus it is OFC as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083ZGX1QQ/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

It is about a inch in diameter and 18 gauge. Can handle 150 watts easily and runs through the OEM wiring which can handle that 100-150 watts easily enough

This had me thinking, "How much power was OP planning on running that required thicker gauge than OEM?"

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I don't like to mess with the OEM stuff at all. For the 16 foot runs to my 6.5's, 14 gauge twisted pair OFC, for the mids and tweets, 16 gauge twisted pair OFC. Toyota and some manufactures use or have started using CCA wire which in and of itself isn't bad thing but I like knowing it's all decent quality twisted OFC wire, that's just me. I figure if I'm dropping several grand on the system, that is the least I can do.

 

[Red Dog]

This had me thinking, "How much power was OP planning on running that required thicker gauge than OEM?"

JL Audio DX700/5 amp (4 x 75W + 1 x 200W RMS) running Rockford Fosgate separates in front, 3-ways in rear plus 12" sub

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

JL Audio DX700/5 amp (4 x 75W + 1 x 200W RMS) running Rockford Fosgate separates in front, 3-ways in rear plus 12" sub

Being the Sportage is a hatchback, that sub should sound very good on that power. Which sub will it be?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Drill a hole and use the proper protective split loom and hole grommets to keep the outer speaker jacket from knicks and cuts, give just enough for door to open and close properly without stretching and not too long as to kink the wiring.