Why are my amps getting so FU**ING HOT!!!

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

double post

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Except what power is your amp tuned to put out? I'm only running mine at 1000-1200W. And it's capable of 3656W according to the birthsheet. My gain is only on like 3 FFS

Class D amps run most efficient at full power (not at lowest impedance, but full power at a higher impedance). Class A/B amps just plain run hot.

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

Class D amps run most efficient at full power (not at lowest impedance, but full power at a higher impedance). Class A/B amps just plain run hot.

How is that even possible? Does a CPU run cooler and more efficently the farther you push it? No. So why would my amp somehow run cooler if it was pushing 3600W rather than 1000W? That just doesn't make any sense at all. Where's the logic in that? Haha.

And if that's true theres no possible way for me to run my amp at full power with my current setup. I would blow the subs in 5 minutes. The only way would be for me to get 2 more SA-8v2 D2 and run them at 4ohms for 2200W on this amp.

Also I should mention I'm only running this amp at 1000W @2ohms right now...NOT 1. I could understand the amp getting hotter at 1ohm, but 2?

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

where are ur amps located, trunk, under seat, or somewhere else

Amps are located in the trunk. AQ is mounted to the floor and the RF is mounted to the back of the box currently.

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

Fans can make a big difference. If you don't want to to use them, then don't complain about your amp getting hot.
Those little fans can move 70 CFM of air and if you have an amp rack built where the air is blowing directly on you ramps with a push/pull setup (windows rolled down is not having the air directly on your amps) you would see much lower temperatures.

I don't even know where I would put an amp rack. Theres not alot of space in my trunk as is.

 

[FamousMassacre 10+ year member]

Bad ground?

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

Bad ground?

I used to have a bad ground that was causing voltage issues to the amp. Thought it would cure the heating issues too and it didn't. Now I have good voltage and still a hot as all hel* amp.

 

[bradl79 10+ year member]

as stated earlier, what class of amp do u have

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

get your high output alternator asap, sounds like your amps are starving for amperage.

 

[sundownz Pro Seller]

It is August -- every August we get calls about hot amps. If the amps start out super hot from ambient heat it's a recipe for over-heating.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

How is that even possible? Does a CPU run cooler and more efficently the farther you push it? No. So why would my amp somehow run cooler if it was pushing 3600W rather than 1000W? That just doesn't make any sense at all. Where's the logic in that? Haha.
And if that's true theres no possible way for me to run my amp at full power with my current setup. I would blow the subs in 5 minutes. The only way would be for me to get 2 more SA-8v2 D2 and run them at 4ohms for 2200W on this amp.

Also I should mention I'm only running this amp at 1000W @2ohms right now...NOT 1. I could understand the amp getting hotter at 1ohm, but 2?

A class D amp is NOT a CPU.

You are correct that there is really no way to run your amp in a really efficient state when listening to music, I'm just pointing out the fact that the high efficiency most people think they are getting from their class D amps is virtually never happening.

If you're tech savvy do some reading on the topic and I'm sure you can find a long explanation.

Very high power conversion efficiency, usually better than 90% above one quarter of the amplifier's maximum power, and around 50% at low power levels.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class-D_amplifier

Rest assured if you have it gained to make 50% of rated power you're likely playing at about 5-10% rated power 90% of the time with normal music.

 

[Joseph M 10+ year member]

Why would anyone search when they can post a question that has been answered a thousand times. If this was me, i would have common logic; Hmmm Its 85 degrees out, that means it about 100 degrees in a sealed trunk. so your resting temperature on the amp will probably be about that as well;

 

[bbeljefe]

What sort of electrical??

Ergo:

Power wire size?

How many fuses?

What size fuses?

How many distro blocks?

What size wire from Distro to amp?

Batteries? How many, what kind, location(s)?

What size ground wires?

Where are they grounded?

 

[clickclickw00t 10+ year member]

I work in a car audio shop and all we get is customers saying "my amp is hot, I've been blasting for 15 min and it goes into thermal". Yes, it is 100 degrees out with heat index above that around 110. Inside your car you're looking at 125+ in the trunk down here in Louisiana. And you're blasting for 15 min? Of course it will get hot.

The way I see it: better a thermal protect shutoff than having to buy a new amp. Be happy for the technology that allows the amp to save you $$$ on a replacement. Amps will run hot regardless. Actually, if the heatsink is hot, it is doing it's job - dissipating heat.

 

[jerryp.]

I have a t1500.1bdcp and it gets hella hot at the fins, you can't touch it for more than a couple of seconds. I've learned to not worry about it. That's what the fins are for. I installed a couple of fans to pull the heat up and maybe that is helped me to not go into thermal. Most amps don't have a thermal protection though, so i am sure RF designed it with mind that these things get hot. I'm starting to wonder if there constant power technology has anything to do with it.

Edited* I guess saying b. l. o. w is against the rules? Really? hm. Replaced it with pull. If it makes sense.