well by perfect i meant that all the pieces meat up perfectly with no over hanging of pieces or having pieces that are just smidge shorter without having to use a sander to get everthing to sit flush //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
didnt really know what other word to use lol
for example: i should be able to lay the top piece onto the box and not having 1/8" gaps.
also PV audio = lemans23?!?!
I got the gist of of what you were drivin, it's all good
In this instance of what your saying and wanting to achieve as to making all your cut parts align together when you start to build the enclosure.
This can be done with a circular saw without problem, all it takes it alittle more effort as to determining the best approach to laying out the cuts you want so they all fit flush and smooth with all the other parts.
Here's how I would do it:
1. First and foremost is to find out if the factory edges of the mdf are square, if the edges are not square then all your parts will not be square when you start cutting.
2. Squaring the panel - Most folks ( I must included ) will use a framer's square to check the panel for square. However, most framer's squares are not square and don't believe otherwise. I got five framer's squares and not a d@mn one of them is Square, but, they were square when I bought them because I checked them before I bought them.
How to Check and Adjust a Framing Square
http://zo-d.com/stuff/how-do-i/how-to-check-and-adjust-a-framing-square.html
However, the best method for checking, determining and finding SQUARE is what is called the " 3,4,5 method ". If you use this method, you have a square panel everytime.
You can create a right angle simply by employing the following procedure:
1. Measuring out two pieces of string or board other item that can be pulled straight and that measure 3 and 4 feet long.
2. These will be the two "short" legs of your right triangle, so lay them down in as close to a right angle as you can get by just eyeballing them.
3. Take a third piece of string or board or what have you, and measure it to 5 feet long.
4. Make this last piece the "long" leg of the triangle. Once you get everything arranged neatly, if your legs are 3, 4, and 5 feet long, you'll have a right angle.
This works because of the pythagorean theorem, which states that the sum of the square of the two short legs equals the square of the long leg (the hypoteneuse). In other words, (3x3) + (4x4) = (5x5).
Sure enough, 9 + 16 does equal 25.
This will work with multiples of 3, 4, and 5, so if lengths of 6, 8, and 10 feet suit your purposes better, just double everything.
The referring link to the above:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://byteshuffler.com/rospo/blog/uploaded_images/345triangle-793260.jpg&imgrefurl=http://gardenplotter.com/rospo/blog/2006/01/making-right-angle-3-4-5-method.html&h=248&w=298&sz=6&hl=en&start=8&um=1&tbnid=w8o6Xk1b0DBn_M:&tbnh=97&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3D%2B3,4,5%2Bmethod%26svnum%3D10%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG
3. Straight Edge - pretty self explanatory, whatever you use for a straight make absolutely d@mn sure it's STRAIGHT.
Home Depot, Lowes sell aluminum straight edges what come in two pieces that you put together that will allow for cutting the full length of a sheet or you can use one piece for a straight edge to cross cut the width of the sheet - two straight edges for the price of one is not a bad deal at all and they come with clamps.
Don't use a 2 x 4 or any other piece of lumber because rarely you will find a piece of lumber with a good straight edge and lumber moves ( wood expands and contracts ), you may find a straight piece of lumber, but it won't stay straight indefinitely.
Now, since most of the time the cutting will be done with pieces 48" or less, the best thing would be a Circular Saw Straight Edge Jig:
http://www.woodezine.com/09_2004/09_2004_images/Benchdog1.JPG
Or, you can make your own.
4. Circular Saw - There's all types of these saw from cheap to expense and pretty much do what they do, cut thru whatever your cutting.
But, there's more to a circular saw depending on the saw and that is what will make the difference in your cuts. There' s not much to these saws, ya got the saw and the base plate and the ability to tilt the saw to cut angle edges.
The key things are that there is not movement at all where the saw points attach to the base plate, if ya got play anywhere, ya got sh!tty cuts.
Next, the blade has to be parallel to the side edges of the base plate to get nice clean straight cuts when used with a good straight edge. On some circular saw there will be a screw that will allow the user to adjust the saw to get the blade parallel the base edges.
Next, use a good square to adjust the saw so the blade is square with the base.
5. Saw Blades, most circular saws use a 8 1/2" diameter blade and for cutting mdf use a good 40 tooth carbide blade, I say 40 tooth because that is about the most per tooth blade your going to find for a circular saw that is carbide in HD,Lowes.
