When to upgrade Electrical Equip.?

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

Alright, Ive spent a while reading the Big 3 posts and other posts but just not 100% sure on the stages of upgrading the electical stuff(if there are any stages).

My questions is at how many watts should you upgrade your battery, alt, wiring, etc.? I was looking at my moms mustang and she has the Mach1000 audio package in there. The altenator looks normal, no upgraded battery, or caps(unless really hidden). that has approx 1000watts in total(i think) and battery has never died or any flickering or what ever. Back to the question...with a stock Jeep no Big 3, what is the maximum wattage I could get out of it all with out dying on me?

Again if this has been talked about before, I must really **** at searching. If that is the case I know....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

But Can anyone give me a run down on what steps should be taken with different sized amps and what not? Bascially trying to figure out how big of an amp I can use for subs and possibly amping speakers. Im on a budget right now and possibly for a bit so Id rather not spend alot on other stuff if I can keep it to a small system.

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[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

bump

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

Anyone?

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

There isn't a set frame, or classification process man.

It all boils down to... amperage.

Efficiency of the amp, the current draw, how well the car AND/OR the amp performs under stress or low voltage. How much stress the alternator can handle... as well as acceptable symptoms to the user (for example, lights dimming, amp cutting out, etc).

What do you have, or what are you looking into. I could tell you what I'd personally do in the same situation... if you think that would help.

nG

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

I dont have anything yet, Im just trying to plan things out ahead when I do get everything. What I already have planned out to get sometime soon is a headunit and coaxial speakers(not amp and would rather save the amperage for the sub if that makes sense or is how it would work). Im driving a completly stock 1998 Jeep Cherokee, Im looking for subs and amp that will match and work good but also not force me to re-do the electrical system since Im low on cash. I dont need subs that will get extreme dBs but will maybe shake or vibrate the jeep a bit, just something to make the bass stand out and with the way the Cherokee is layed out , pretty much a box with seats in the way, Idk how loud it will be since there is so much room and might need more power for the subs to really stand out.(if that is how it works as well)

I was thinking of 2 subs maybe 12" or a box with 2 L5s or a Single one. But saw their RMS and thought that might pull too much. Possibly this as a set up if it is good enough? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7696_Kicker+Combo-+ZX300.1+Amplifier+%2B+DC122+Comp+Subs+-+Box+%2B+FREE+CK8+Amp+Kit.html

Thanks

 

[kross 10+ year member]

There's no need to upgrade anything if you're just going to run that 300wrms sub.

That sub is gonna overpower the rest of your system if you're just running off HU power, though.

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

i would get a pair of cvr 12's from the buy one get one, A zx1000(for headroom) or zx750.1 if you don't have the money, and build your own box. Or something around there anyway.

Kickers amps a generally regarded as being efficient.

You might be able to go bigger than that... or not. won't really be able to tell until you put it in there and see what your voltage is doing.

 

[kross 10+ year member]

I don't know the effeciency rating of those amps. I believe Class D amps are usually over 90% effecient, right? If that's the case, the zx1000.1 would draw about 80 amps at full power. Add in another (lower efficiency Class AB) amp for the rest of the sound system, plus the rest of the vehicle electrics, including running the engine, and this sounds like you definitely need to upgrade to a HO alt and big 3 wiring.

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

I don't know the effeciency rating of those amps. I believe Class D amps are usually over 90% effecient, right? If that's the case, the zx1000.1 would draw about 80 amps at full power. Add in another (lower efficiency Class AB) amp for the rest of the sound system, plus the rest of the vehicle electrics, including running the engine, and this sounds like you definitely need to upgrade to a HO alt and big 3 wiring.

....no. I would not suggest a h.o. alt for 80 amps of draw unless for some reason the voltage was dropping largly and even then i would look into other things first. Such as big three ,good connections, and that the battery is in good shape.

The rule of thumb that your combined amplifier current draw is no more than 125% your alts peak output. Thats from the mecp installer guide. Fairly conservative figure imo. I'm drawing over 200% my alts peak output and have been for the last 6 months with no problems. I am running an hc2400 under the hood, which helps greatly.

 

[kross 10+ year member]

Okay that's good to know re: the HO alt.

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

SO Say I got the subs that I saw and than got a 4channel amp for speakers...would I still need to possibly upgrade anything possibly battery?

Side note: How much would those subs overpower the speakers running off the headunit? I know theres a huge difference but would I still hear music compared to bass or will that totally be drowned out?

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

Just found out the size of the alt...its a 117 Amp Alternator. Would that be find wiht a yellowtop battery? I was talking to someone else that has an XJ and all they did was had a 3 frad cap and a yellowtop and was running 650ish RMS but than there MPG dropped down to 10...weird? But does that sound right or should I still be concerned?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

i would get something with more capacity under the hood battery wise. kinetik 1800 or 2000 or even a deka intimidator

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

117A is a good sized alt, and there's nothing particularly demanding about the electrical system in a Jeep. I wouldn't worry about a thing until you get in the 1000w rms neighborhood.

Unless you have extreme listening habits I would think 1500 would run fine.

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

i would get something with more capacity under the hood battery wise. kinetik 1800 or 2000 or even a deka intimidator

This will sound stupid but I just want to double check before I go buying things...That will run everything just like the stock battery BUT it just has deeper cells and a better way of holding a charge?

117A is a good sized alt, and there's nothing particularly demanding about the electrical system in a Jeep. I wouldn't worry about a thing until you get in the 1000w rms neighborhood.Unless you have extreme listening habits I would think 1500 would run fine.

Oh reallly? Thought 117amp alt was bad, but yeah your right, there isnt much demanding especially since I dont have a junk load of lights on it or a wench. I was looking at a 5channel amp to amp the speakers and sub total of 700watts. Guessing that would be ok to run? But you really think 1000 watts would be fine in the jeep if I just upgrade a battery(and cap if needed) and possibly the big3 I dont 100% understand the Big 3, I have an idea of what to do but since the pics dont work I cant see it visually. Is there somewhere else that Pics of the steps as well?

Any one else Agree with 1000watts?