Whats the better upgrade?

[Jacobman 10+ year member]

I already have a CDA-9847, front speakers are SPS-170A and a 12" type-R sub on a 140 watt amp. With $220 i could get 2 alpine 6x9 rear speakers and a 4 channel amp for all the speakers or get a better amp for the sub, what would you do?

Off the topic, if you only have 1 sub amp rca out of your deck, how do you wire 2 amps then? Do you just split off the 1 sub amp out?

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[JCivicHb 10+ year member]

I would say upgrade whichever one sounds worse.

 

[wlmrs 10+ year member]

I would say upgrade whichever one sounds worse.

x2

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

I already have a CDA-9847, front speakers are SPS-170A and a 12" type-R sub on a 140 watt amp. With $220 i could get 2 alpine 6x9 rear speakers and a 4 channel amp for all the speakers or get a better amp for the sub, what would you do?

I'll assume that you're driving those coaxials with the head unit? Were it me I'd go for bigger amplification for that R....I'd imagine on 140 watts it's somewhat starving. On the flipside certainly going with some rear fill and amping all your interior speakers could make a dramatic difference in your system as well. I'll likely get flamed for not advising you to avoid rear fill like the plague but c'est la vie. Were it me, though, I'd go with bass amplification 'cause I'd wager you're not using half that R's potential with under 150 watts.

Off the topic, if you only have 1 sub amp rca out of your deck, how do you wire 2 amps then? Do you just split off the 1 sub amp out?

Several different potential methods.A) Use 'Y'-splitters to turn your single set of RCA outs into multiple sets.

B) Use the single set of RCA outs for one amp and use a LOC (Line Output Converter) coming off of the speaker outputs for another amp. If you attach the LOC to the front speaker outputs you can still retain fadar functionality.

C) If one of your amps has inbuilt preamp outputs then daisy chain the other amp off of the first one.

Don't know any others right offhand.

Hope this helps at all //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 

[Jacobman 10+ year member]

I could get the rear speakers and 4 channel amp and hold out till i can get a real amp that would drive the sub to its fullest potential. I would really like the cab to be more loud in general though? Well is there any good amps for under $220 that would do like 500-700 RMS?

 

[msrpIZtooMUCH 10+ year member]

My advice to you would be to not use the rear speakers or if you have stock rear speakers just leave them connected to the HU, put the amp that you have on the front speakers (assuming that it is a 2 channel ab amp), and get a bigger/better amp for the sub.

Don't make your rear fill a priority.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

My reccomendations-

Forget about the rearfill, for the biggest most dramatic difference you only need to purchase one item.

Find a large 4 channel amp, bridge the rear channels to run the sub then use the front channels to power your frontstage.

This will kill 2 birds with one stone by boosting power to your sub and adding power to your fronts at the same time.

The amp you want should be rated at close to 100watts x4 rms or 300 watts x2 bridged.

Some suggestions-

http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2280

http://www.caraudiodeals.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_31&products_id=352

http://www.bizrate.com/buy/products__att256349--278200-,att259818--031471318-302787333,cat_id--11820000,keyword--4%20channel%20amplifier.html

 

[justsayk 10+ year member]

^x2...Taking out your rear fill all together will let more bass into the car if you're using a trunk car. You can still run the stock 6x9's of deck power (attenuated) if you need rear fill, and power the fronts properly giving you a better soundstage. I wish I would have started off with some comps, a sub, and a 4 channel amp when I first got into car audio. Much more simple, and you can spend your money on the most important parts of your system.