whats the best way? multiple batteries - help

[Reidk 10+ year member]

being sarcastic or what?

 

[BaseSteala112 10+ year member]

No man .... You are still simply WRONG. Please don't confuse this guy asking for help , when you are fundamentally wrong.
#1 - " What matters is the size of the battery to the amp " you said. This is WRONG. What matters is the size of the wiring BEFORE the battery !

#2 - Saying the under hood battery is charged by a 6 ga wire from the alternator is also WRONG .... Because the FIRST thing everyone should do is replace this wire with 0 gauge ... This is part of the Big 3.

Let me respectfully educate you here , and you can then make your system even better ......

Your car's entire electrical system stems from the alternator and battery. If you don't upgrade here to begin with , NO OTHER wire in the system is going to matter !

You first have to upgrade the alternator's ground wire , and positive wire to the battery. This get's the MOST current to the battery. You then have to upgrade ALL of the battery's grounds , as well as ALL under hood engine block to chassis grounds , and ANY OTHER main grounds under your hood. This maintains the high current that you have coming from the alternator's upgraded wiring. You next have to get the runs from the battery back to the amps ran with the SAME size upgraded wiring .... This continues keeping the current as unrestricted as possible , and lastly , you have to ground with the SAME upgraded size wiring.

This is THE CORRECT WAY to do it, and there is no substitute. HTH

Good info you've given here blue.

 

[sku 10+ year member]

No man .... You are still simply WRONG. Please don't confuse this guy asking for help , when you are fundamentally wrong.
#1 - " What matters is the size of the battery to the amp " you said. This is WRONG. What matters is the size of the wiring BEFORE the battery !

#2 - Saying the under hood battery is charged by a 6 ga wire from the alternator is also WRONG .... Because the FIRST thing everyone should do is replace this wire with 0 gauge ... This is part of the Big 3.

Let me respectfully educate you here , and you can then make your system even better ......

Your car's entire electrical system stems from the alternator and battery. If you don't upgrade here to begin with , NO OTHER wire in the system is going to matter !

You first have to upgrade the alternator's ground wire , and positive wire to the battery. This get's the MOST current to the battery. You then have to upgrade ALL of the battery's grounds , as well as ALL under hood engine block to chassis grounds , and ANY OTHER main grounds under your hood. This maintains the high current that you have coming from the alternator's upgraded wiring. You next have to get the runs from the battery back to the amps ran with the SAME size upgraded wiring .... This continues keeping the current as unrestricted as possible , and lastly , you have to ground with the SAME upgraded size wiring.

This is THE CORRECT WAY to do it, and there is no substitute. HTH

Not saying I disagree with what you said...but now I'm wondering about the alternator to battery wire upgrades.

In his example his alt is only 80 amps. 6 AWG can easily accomodate 80 amps worth of current.

What would going to 1/0 gain him? That seems like overkill?

 

[blue 10+ year member]

being sarcastic or what?

Not at all man , just joking with you ....

 

[blue 10+ year member]

Not saying I disagree with what you said...but now I'm wondering about the alternator to battery wire upgrades.
In his example his alt is only 80 amps. 6 AWG can easily accomodate 80 amps worth of current.

What would going to 1/0 gain him? That seems like overkill?

Could be overkill , but I can't tell you how many times JUST doing the big three with larger wire has stopped head light dimming in our shop !

This is also going to depend on how much current a system is pulling with the amps. If the amps in a system are pulling more than the alternator wants to dish out , the small factory wire can sometimes heat up , and this builds resistance where a larger wire would not.

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

To the original poster:

I would definitely run a 1/0 ga wire from the battery (+) to the other battery (+).

If you run a 1/0 ga wire from the battery (-) to the other battery (-), then make sure that all of your electronics associated with your stereo (all of your amps and HU) have a wire run from their (-) to one of your batteries (-).

If you ground the electronics to your chassis and have your batteries (-) wired with a 1/0ga wire, you will have a point of resistance at that amp/chassis ground which causes a potential difference (Vdrop).

From one of the batteries (+) it's a good idea to run a single 1/0ga wire to a d-block, and run the largest size wire the amp will take from the d-block to the amps (+) terminals.